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What am I checking my fuel filter for? It is getting fuel. Besides... it wouldn't just die while driving down the street on a shitty fuel filter.. would It?
As for the compression numbers... 80 80 80 on the front rotor. 80 80 80 on the rear. Give or take 2 psi. I'm not the quickest at judging the needle on the gauge. But it's def within spec. Besides.. if it lost compression, it would still prob start. And It def would have run like crap when it died. It ran fine. Just died. Anyway Seriously..I appreciate all the help you guys are offering me. I just wish I could figure this one out. I wish someone who knew rotary engines lived near me! Ugh, I hate Rhode Island! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.gif |
Oh yeah... I don't know if I mentioned this.. but it is a 10th Anniversary. so, it's a turbo. Sorry...I forgot to mention it being Turbo.
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maybe you blew an i/c coupler, it wouldnt start and it would die smoothly like that if thats what happened
kevin. |
Originally Posted by EastonBall' post='863668' date='Mar 15 2007, 11:48 AM
Ok so, My AFM is working the way it should? I would have assumed, that the Ohms reading would change according to the amount the door was open or closed. Hilbilly. I am testing it according to the Factory Service Manual. It shows the pins, and the Ohms readings it should be. Well, Does anyone else have any clues as to what the problem could be? When the motor is trying to start, what sensors are givign the input for the vehicle to start? Knowing this might better help m,e determine the problem. Because a Rotary doesnt just die out of nowhere while driving. It has to be electrical. Please help.. Also, thanks for your responses. I seriously appreciate it. the afm has 3 circuits in it. 1. air temp sensor, sends a signal to the ecu, with volume and temp you can compute the air flow 2. fuel pump switch, basically if the afm is 100% closed it turns off the fuel pump circuit 3. door position/air flow... when the key is in "start" position, it sends a signal to the ecu, and the ecu looks at coolant temp, and rpms ONLY BUT if the car stopped running it could be anything... so you start with the basics 1. compression 2. spark? 3. fuel? 4. vacuum leaks? did it blow off a hose? the duct from the afm to the turbo cracked? |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='863841' date='Mar 16 2007, 08:00 AM
the afm has 3 circuits in it. 1. air temp sensor, sends a signal to the ecu, with volume and temp you can compute the air flow 2. fuel pump switch, basically if the afm is 100% closed it turns off the fuel pump circuit 3. door position/air flow... when the key is in "start" position, it sends a signal to the ecu, and the ecu looks at coolant temp, and rpms ONLY BUT if the car stopped running it could be anything... so you start with the basics 1. compression 2. spark? 3. fuel? 4. vacuum leaks? did it blow off a hose? the duct from the afm to the turbo cracked? I've checked all the IC couplers. I've checked all the Vac lines. I've taken them all off and put them all back on. Ive used new hoses and what not. Now if when starting it only looks at Coolant temp and RPM.... Could a bad coolant temp sensor cause the car to not start? I've experienced a similar problem in a Chevy 350 motor.... the coolant temp sensor was bad. And when I tried to start the car it kept dumping way too much fuel into the motor. We unplugged the sensor and it ran fine. Bought a new one and it was fixed. I've tried to unplug the water thermo sensor (Fuel injector lookingplug behind water pump/alt) ANd it didnt start with it unplugged. Could this be my problem? Also.. would thi shave caused the car to die while driving? |
Originally Posted by EastonBall' post='863885' date='Mar 16 2007, 01:28 PM
I've checked all the IC couplers. I've checked all the Vac lines. I've taken them all off and put them all back on. Ive used new hoses and what not. Now if when starting it only looks at Coolant temp and RPM.... Could a bad coolant temp sensor cause the car to not start? I've experienced a similar problem in a Chevy 350 motor.... the coolant temp sensor was bad. And when I tried to start the car it kept dumping way too much fuel into the motor. We unplugged the sensor and it ran fine. Bought a new one and it was fixed. I've tried to unplug the water thermo sensor (Fuel injector lookingplug behind water pump/alt) ANd it didnt start with it unplugged. Could this be my problem? Also.. would thi shave caused the car to die while driving? the one in the back of the water pump is the one i'm talking about. i dont think ive seen an FC one broken, but i have on an fd. if its shorted the car didnt start cause it was flooded, diconnected, it didnt start cause it wasnt getting any fuel |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='864004' date='Mar 17 2007, 08:56 AM
the one in the back of the water pump is the one i'm talking about. i dont think ive seen an FC one broken, but i have on an fd. if its shorted the car didnt start cause it was flooded, diconnected, it didnt start cause it wasnt getting any fuel Well I just tested my Water Thermo Sensor. It says to put it in 68 degree water and take a resistance fromit. Well it was at 2.240 K Ohms. It says for this test it should be between 2.45 K ohms +/- 0.24. SO I guess It's ok. I checked my Injectors. and they were at 12.5 Ohms. |
Ok so... The Air Bleed's thats are under the Fuel injectors? What is there function? And if one were to be clogged.. would that stop my car from starting? The turbo on my car **** the bed the day my car died.... the bearings went and sent a ton of oil into the intake track. I had to take the UIM off and clean it all out. But couldnt the air bleeds have been clogged... causing my car to not run?
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