hi all,



I have a litle problem with my 7's, The temp gauge is always arout the 1/2 and 3/4... I thing this is too hot for that kind of motor (13B 88 no mod) . ??



I change up the thermostat (from mazda) and it steel always there. I have check my fill cap and i heard some air enter in the cap (i don't know if this is the problem ??)



do you have any idea ...



jonathan

Any modifications?

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png[/quote]

Oops, I didn't see that.http://www.plauder-smilies.com/kopfpatsch.gif

How's the water pump? If there's air in the system you should try getting rid of it. How's the radiator cap?

do a pressure test on your cooling system...

Also kind of stupid but in what shape is the cooling fan?

That's a good point.http://www.plauder-smilies.com/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

lol thanx

:bigok:



But check it out for sure if it is an electric one as they do burn out.

If its mechanical check to see all is in good shape and start up the motor and see if the fan is providing sufficent flow to keep the motor cool....

2nd gen RX-7's have a clutch fan. Here's a good way to test it at http://www.mazdatrix.com/b9.htm :

These go bad in two ways - either seized-up, which is very hard on the water pump and belts (and very noisy), or they are free-wheeling, which gives overheating while stopped or slow driving. With the engine off, there should be no side-to-side play, and reasonable resistance should be felt when you spin the fan blades. We have seen a few that were very inconsistent - they would feel fine for four or five spins, then go completely free-wheeling, and/or seize up. The later (84+) fan clutches have thermostats in them that vary the resistance of the clutch according to the temperature of the air moving across them.

I thing this is du to air in the system.. but i try to get out the air but i'm not shure of my technic... where can I get the technic to get the air out of the system ....



thanx for you quick answer



jonathan

there is a bleed on top right of radiator-then cap at thermostat housing is high point in system,i fill from there last after i bleed radiator. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

you did not say if it was blowing water out it may need sending unit for temp guage.

what i am getting at is it really running hot or temp guage may be lying to you there not real accurate. always like manual temp. unit.

Yeah, I was going to say that it would be a good idea to try out an aftermarket gauge.

It could be any number of things said, if all else fails - have the radiator flushed and checked, and it could even be the water pump, I have had impellers go bad on me, see if you can grab the pulley on the pump and move it up and down, if you can it might not be any good, even though its not leaking or anything, especially if someone before you neglected the cooling system.

yes i see it but i'm not shure if i have the car running when I open the bleeder... and of course if i have to remove it completly ?



thanx



jonathan

there is a bleed on top right of radiator-then cap at thermostat housing is high point in system,i fill from there last after i bleed radiator.



yes i see it but i'm not shure if i have the car running when I open the bleeder... and of course if i have to remove it completly ?



thanx



jonathan

we filled up radiator first eng off bleeder backed out 1 or 2 rounds. then fill at thermostat housing cap when it has liquid coming out of bleeder close it. crank it and continue filling give it few min.