I have seen people list gutted 6-ports as a mod on NA's. I imagine this involves removing the actuator rods and leaving just the sleeve, but how do you secure it so it doesn't rotate?



I can see how this would increase flow as opposed to just wiring them open, but how much does it really help?



And no I don't care about not having low-end, I have driven it with them wired open and it has enough.



Thanks for any input.

I removed the sleeve and the rod, once it's a part it's pretty self explanatory, the only hard part is the two screws that hold the plate for the rod in place you just have to use a hack saw or dremel tool to cut them out for a flat head screwdriver because they strip so easy. I then just cut some aluminum block of plates to cover the hole left from removing the rod.

Thanks for the reply, I had planned on using epoxy to fill the holes after removing the rods. What I was wondering is how to secure the sleeves into the port, as I will be making my own Pineapple Racing sleeves with epoxy and somehow securing them in the 'open' position.

Why? Youre just wasting low end power, and not even gaining any power on the top end from it.

If you want to go with no sleeves or actuator rods, I think you'd be better off building a "ramp" using epoxy in the housings than trying to secure the sleeves in place.. obviously having the engine apart would be the better and safer way to do it though. I can't see how there'd be that much diff in flow on an NA with or without the rods. I personally hate having my ports wired open but I have no other choice at this point. I like the low and high end power that working six ports give.

There are times when its understandable to have them wired open, etc. Its the people who think wiring them open gives you more power, so they take a working setup, and wire it open.



Bottom line, if you cant come up with a good reason for having them non-functional, you should keep/make them functional.

My main reason for gutting them would be for the simplicity of having no actuators, and the possible increase in flow from removing the rods. But it sounds like it is not really worth it.



I am in the process of an engine swap, the original finally coughed up an apex seal at 200k. (upon removal discovered a broken oil metering line on the front housing, grrr...) Got an engine from a parts car with 148k, and I have been trying to simplify everything as much as possible, to make it easier to work on. Also will be running premix from now on. I figured while I had everything apart I would see what I could do with the 6-ports. I definately will be making ramps in the sleeves. I previously had them wired open or closed, depending on the situation https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png because the cheap replacement cat that came with the car (which turned out to be hollow) was not providing enough backpressure to even open them.



I will be making a custom exhaust this time with an RB disassembled header kit and running dual 2" back, perhaps with some dynomax bullets if its too loud. (I have ran with open headers before, so anything is an improvement https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R ). Mazdatrix sells a true dual exhaust that has the backpressure pickup coming off of one of the header tubes, so I might try something like that. I am hoping there is enough backpressure in the header for it to work. Anyone else tried this?

Well, I have an RB header & presilencer which comes with the pickup tube and they don't open. I've cleaned the sleeves, manifold, rods, and actuators, tried 3 different sets of actuators... there just isn't enough backpressure. I am not putting my air pump back in so I want to fab something electrical.



Mazdaspeed7, do you have your stock setup for activation or something different?

FCmaniac- If you tried all that you have some serious problem with yout auxilary ports.



Just to clear things up you do have the pre-silencer with the fitting for the split air tue that hooks up to the actuators right? I have seen some guys buy the regular silencer and think "its just suppossed to work" While you really need to hook up the split air tube to a catalitic converter or a pre-silencer and then with a rubber line to the actuators. After that they must be clean and free moving in place.



I have the true Duals and they have the fitting on the header and not the pre-silencers.



Just thought I would throw that in there. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

1987rx7guy- So your setup works correctly? Could you take a pic or describe where the fitting is located on the header? I am not sure where to weld on a nipple when I build my exhaust.