Ok, so my Greddy V-spec fmic will be here next week. Can someone tell me how to install it.. WITHOUT removing or relocating anythig?? What needs to be cut, and what needs to be done.. I could move the battery to one of the rear bins, but thats about the extent of what i wanna move around.. any help is appreciated.. thanks!

you gotta cut



the kit's piping was made for use with the car in all shapes...so its tailored to a stock engine...so you can infact use it with the battery there..





but you will have to cut some sheetmetal out of hte way for the piping its not too bad

from what i understand, the piping will be hitting or touching like, the power steering or some ****..

just make sure you can cut the holes in the sheet metal. Its not a bolt in :( it will take you the good part of the day.

cutting the sheetmetal should be the easy part.. haha

it might rub the MBC since theyre designed for RHD cars...but well see



i dont have the battery or the PS and AC in the front

i believe you need to remove the whole front bumper and **** to install it properly and reach the places udner the headlights where you need to cut.



it is by no means a quick job. id plan a free day just to be safe and so you dont rush and **** **** up.



kevin.

yeah, i know the bumper needs to come off. just wondering what under the hood needs to be moved to a different location or removed altogether.

umm ask j9fd3s/mike he had a website with pics of how the greddy pipes run on someones fc with the bumper off, itd give you a good idea.



its the ultimate in tight fits.



kevin.

Here is a website:

http://www.cabrio7.org/mods/ic/

You will need to modify pipe 5 going to the throttle body. It will hit the master cylinder.

we just cut that pipes. thats matts car besure to tell him how sexy it is

I had to relocate my leading coil.



I used 2 45degree couplings cause i didn't want to cut the piping and clear the powersteering unit.



If you have an early s4 car with powersteering, the units on this cars are huge, later s4 came with smaller units. I had to swap out to a new unit and the pipe cleared. On s5 there is no problem with the power streering, they seem to have more room on that side.



I didnt want to cut my tubing to clear the AC tube and hit the break master cylinder so i got those 45 degree couplings. When i find the pics, i'll post them.

who in the hell needs a FMIC for a stock turbo II

it helps, nice power adder, extra piece of mind ... and it looks cool https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR

dunno if its a power adder, i would imagine the pressure drop is going to be large as the fmic has about a bajilion feet of curvy pipes. i guess justy cranking up the boost would work tho.



i like how the greddy looks tho, sorta blocks the front brake cooler duct things but gotta make sacrifices to make power.



kevin.

after i installed mine there was a noticable gain in power at the stock boost levels. *shrug*



also on kraigs (iluvmy88)

yeah its actually not bad on a stock turbo, like lagwise

Sorry I'm must be kind of stupid.

fmic? what is it?

PK797

no im not saying there's no power gained, im saying if you dont counteract the pressure drop you wont gain as much as you should.



or maybe it just doesnt experience a pressure drop.



meh, whatev.



kevin.

Benny here's what I had to do. First you need to move the leading coil (brachet should be in kit), you need to cut holes in the sheet metal for the pipes to pass through, you'll need to cut the bumper cover to allow for proper fitment again, you'll need to cut the pipe that goes by the powersteering(check to see where it contacts and cut it there and then add a coupler to bridge the gap) so it will clear, and you'll need to cut the end of that same pipe about 1 inch to make it tuck into the throttlebody coupler more to clear the brake master cylinder. While your doing this keep in mind that you should test fit and measure many times before you cut. Don't **** up and cut too much or you'll be screwed!! Good luck and enjoy. BTW also go to Home Depot or something and get some mesh to put in the front end to protect the core from rocks and other things. Don't use the metal stuff, it's a pain in the ass.

yeah you are, but its cool, everyones gotta learn sometime. FMIC = front mount intercooler, uh its an intercooler that mounts in the front of your car behind the bumper. you mount it there so more cold air goes to it to cool intake charge more and because its the biggest high pressure zone on the car. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683827.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

BAH! would be so much easier without all that **** in the bay, his pink hair is sexy tho. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

haha yeah. he had to put his hair back to stock to go to egypt shortly after those pics

if i have a bov kit right now, do i have to weld it onto the intercooler pipe, or can it stay where it is, which is like a kit for stock location i guess.

You're going to have to weld it onto the IC pipe somewhere.

I'll throw some pics up of my install a while back ...just in case it's not still clear...



BTW, the VSpec kits are well designed and you will see a power difference going to it. Even on a bone stock T2, the power will be noticeable...it's even better using full exhaust, intake and fuel mods. The VSpec core has one of the best pressure drops for this style core too....although air-water would be more efficient..



This is how close it runs to the MBC if u don't cut the 5th pipe...

You can see in this pic where the passenger brake duct lines up w/ the inlet side of the FMIC...I had to cut my brake cooling duct some to allow the pipe to fit..I removed the driver's side duct all together...I'm doing other mods to take care of brake cooling...

I'm not sure if you'll have to do this, you may be able to wiggle the pipes/make adjustments, etc..but I had to cut these little .5" tabs off the steel framework that the bumper reinforcement was bolted to. It was so my core could sit a little further back and bolt up the bottom brackets...made for a really tight and secure install...

But once you get it all on there and get it all back together...it's very much worth it. I did this as part of my whole conversion as it made it a lot easier then taking the stock setup off and on again when I made adjustments to the TB/TPS/fuel inj. lol..oh well.



BTW, This install was on a series 4 NA Rx7 that originally had PS and such, but I had removed it all during the conversion.



Also, I did have to relocate my leading coil as well, and yes, you will need to weld the BOV on. The pipes are aluminum so be sure you purchase the correct bung to weld it on...if you need one, just PM me...I can get bungs for APEXi, HKS, GReddy, and a few others BOVs in both steel and AL...





I'll leave u w/ the final pic...everything works out great, it just takes a lil manipulation...