Yeah, and once you rotate you can never go back!

If you really want the power start with a TII. It will be a hell of a lot cheaper in the long run and less of a headache. From personal experience I would strongly urge you to get an N/A. Turbo rotaries can be much more complex and are less reliable. I own a turbo rotary and wouldn't trade for the wold but it can get real expensive to fix even now it is hard for me to afford the thing.



If you want to use it as a weekend autocrosser (I say this as a racer since the happy age of 15) Get a car with less power. The car I learned the most from a car that was no more than 100rwhp. An old MR2. You will figure out how to make up for the lack of power and thus become a better driver/racer.





My .02

Lee: How much for the shell? What's the worst a stock NA motor could cost me? 500 bucks?



Someone buy my Vega.

If your father has a problem with RX-7's/Rotary Powered Cars in general, pull up a video of Jesus Padilia in his 20b powered RX-7. That should answer any problems he has. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif Or any RX-7 with 400hp running 10's in street trim. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



Honestly, your best bet is to get an S4 or S5 N/A, STOCK, and drive it for a while. Diagnose problems, figure out what makes it tick and go haywire, read EVERYTHING you can read on forums, and have fun. DO NOT buy a TII for your first car, as most are beaten to ****, or the other ones are pushing alot of power, and cost 5K+.



Or you could possibly go with an FB, but i nicely running non rusting FB/SA usually goes for more than an S4-5 N/A.

It's GONNA be a NA S4/S5.



I don't want a TII. I want to do a turbo NA motor if I DO go turbo. Just a re-port on it to bleed compression SLIGHTLY, and run an RPM switch on the aux ports.



I want to buy a exhaust flange and start piping it. Any idea how running both pipes separated all the way back would sound? (Might not make the best power, but the sound would be unique, even amongst rotaries!)



Huh. What think of that? I won't do it (the exhaust wackiness) until I'm used to the car's quirks, but it'd be another reason to turn heads.

you have the change out rotors to run lower compression.

wtf double post

Not if I port a little into the compression...



It's like tossing a cam meant for a 14:1 motor (in a reciprocal) into a 8:1 motor. Drops effective compression. And vice versa. The 14:1 motor NEEDS that cam. A mild job meant for an 8:1 will shoot the effective compression ratio up closer to the static 14:1. Detonation (and all the bad things known about high compression motors) ensues.



Methinks it would apply to rotaries as well.

never heard of it before, would think if it was that easy itd be a commonly known trick..

Ehh, we Mallenders are like that. We build turbo motors with more compression and less boost. More compression will spool the turbo quicker, makes better overall use of the air/fuel, etc.



The opposite is the usual. Low (like 8:1 low) compression with big boost.



10 or 12:1 rotors anyone? Of course, it'd need a little work on pressure bleeding, but it'd run good! (Pressure bleeding with higher compression uses less air/fuel to get the same or better reaction. Only real thing limiting us on reciprocals is the camshafts have a basic grind already on them, so we can't get it ground to where we need it for truly creepy compression ratios.)



However, I don't see rotaries having that sort of problem. How far up could we safely port into the compression? I'm getting crazier by the second. I now have reason. I will have a rotary. If for no other purpose than to occupy a back porch. (That's where the Vega is sitting)



Goddamn, man! Now I'm all bent out of shape.