can anyone tell me whaere this vac nipple goes or does it get capped.

Also on the front and back of the dinamic chmber there are three vac nipples. which ones get capped? I know that the ones in the front have something to do with omp.

That 1st vac nipple you can use for whatever you want, it's closest to the primary port, so it's the type of thing you'd use for a MAP sensor



You don't have a vacuum rack anymore so you can cap it, or use it for what you need. It used to goto the vac-rack.



**** it's been a long time since I've looked at stock 6port manifolds





I see you are premixing





Cap all three on the dynamic chamber, and please cap (or make sure you don't have any vacuum leak) at the cold start solenoid flange you have exposed on your upper intake runners.



Other than that, nice work mister.





Is that big hole in the 1st pic going into your primary fuel rail?

ok how many vac lines should I have when done this is the first time I do this.

That is a hole in the primary fuel line and no it will not stay that way.

Anyway, Thanks alot man.













That 1st vac nipple you can use for whatever you want, it's closest to the primary port, so it's the type of thing you'd use for a MAP sensor



You don't have a vacuum rack anymore so you can cap it, or use it for what you need. It used to goto the vac-rack.



**** it's been a long time since I've looked at stock 6port manifolds

I see you are premixing

Cap all three on the dynamic chamber, and please cap (or make sure you don't have any vacuum leak) at the cold start solenoid flange you have exposed on your upper intake runners.



Other than that, nice work mister.

Is that big hole in the 1st pic going into your primary fuel rail?


[/quote]

Well, you need a vacuum line for the FPR to somewhere that has consistant vacuum, so that 1st one in the pic would actually be a good canidate.



Other than that it depends what type of engine controller you are running. Are you using the stock EFI system or aftermarket?



My 6 port has hardly any vacuum lines, because I have an engine controller. I have one to the MAP, one to the FPR, and two to the distributor for the vacuum advance diaphragms (I'm not using the CAS like you have shown in your pic). Everything else is capped.



So what are you going to be using?

I will be using stock efi. the car itself is an s4.

I'm asking because I don't want to make any mistakes.

This is the first time I tackle a job this big.

The crazy thing is that I have no-one that will help me with project and I Don't know any mechanics that I trust with my car.





[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Jun 9 2005, 05:36 AM']Well, you need a vacuum line for the FPR to somewhere that has consistant vacuum, so that 1st one in the pic would actually be a good canidate.



Other than that it depends what type of engine controller you are running. Are you using the stock EFI system or aftermarket?



My 6 port has hardly any vacuum lines, because I have an engine controller. I have one to the MAP, one to the FPR, and two to the distributor for the vacuum advance diaphragms (I'm not using the CAS like you have shown in your pic). Everything else is capped.



So what are you going to be using?


[/quote]

Oh and thanks for your help. I mean that.

alex

You should end up with 3 vacuum lines. Look at the rats nest removal thread in the 2nd gen FAQ's if you need more help. Theres some good info there.

nice pics man, i want them not resized hehe? Email me =)

I made a mistake, that one nipple you were talking about is to help fuel atomization at lower rpms... Connect that to the dynamic chamber



Here's a QUOTE from the FAQ

Since you are premixing, those nipples for the oil metering injection are constant vacuum sources, so you can use those instead of routing to the back of the dynamic chamber, etc...





This setup will work for you



Incase you are unsure, the boost sensor is the little black box with a vacuum line mounted on the passenger side strut tower. There is a little "pill" inside that vacuum line for better vacuum response reading, so since you are a stock EFI guy, I don't know if it will affect your idling/throttle response (if you replace it with a pretty new vacuum line. Just keep that in mind.

Don't confuse the vac nipples for the boost sensor with the ones sticking straight up on the lower intake - those are for the ACV (which you have blocked off) and they won't work!

Hey, thank alot.

I have one more question. See I recently purchased A remote start alarm it was designed for manual. It set me back about 700 installed. Therefore i decided to go with thermowax set up but it has two vac nipples. One of them goes to the back of the LIM I believe it is the the center one of the three and one of them goes to some kind of dash pot that went to the throttle plates before I did the TB mod. What do i do with the vac hose that goes to the dash pot type a thing? I am not using the bac valve though, so i will run the coolent hose from the block to the thermowax and then out to the back of the water pump.

Do you think this set up will work or should i just trash it altogether.

Alex



And thanks again Collin.

I would have to say you got raped on the alarm. Did it come with KY Jelley?

when I bought the alarm it was the only on of its kind. Clifford g4 they don't make them anymore the brain is almost the size of an amplifier. DEI took over clifford and now they refuse to continue building these alarms. It works freaking great. Well for me it was worth it cause I really don't like the cold. This alarm aloud me to start the car from almost half a block away.

No prob..



Since you have the throttle pot gone, the thermowax won't work.



It's whole function is to actuate that pot to hold the throttle open slightly depending on coolant temp.



You might as well ditch it entirely, or put back on a regular TB.

I just finished these tonight.

Hey collin I just insatlled my engine today and noticed that next to the oil presure sensor on the block there is a small hole for a sensor of some sort I just want to know what sensor it is and where can i get it.

That is actually a coolant temperature sensor



There is two, one on the block and one behind the waterpump on the housing just below the thermostat in an FC3S...



Shop around for the sensor, they are cheap, as a matter of fact I have a few sitting in my garage on a shelf..



I don't believe it's 1/4" NPT because I tried to thread in a common plug for it on a different motor I was working on some time ago, but I'm not 100%.. I may have that confused with the oil pressure sensor thread on the same iron...



It goes directly into the cooling passage you won't be able to run the car without something to plug the hole at the very least.



If you PM me shipping details I will send you a sensor for the hole, but something should have come out of it while you were building, so perhaps re-check you're stock of unused bolts/nuts..

[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Jul 4 2005, 08:47 PM']That is actually a coolant temperature sensor



There is two, one on the block and one behind the waterpump on the housing just below the thermostat in an FC3S...



Shop around for the sensor, they are cheap, as a matter of fact I have a few sitting in my garage on a shelf..



I don't believe it's 1/4" NPT because I tried to thread in a common plug for it on a different motor I was working on some time ago, but I'm not 100%.. I may have that confused with the oil pressure sensor thread on the same iron...



It goes directly into the cooling passage you won't be able to run the car without something to plug the hole at the very least.



If you PM me shipping details I will send you a sensor for the hole, but something should have come out of it while you were building, so perhaps re-check you're stock of unused bolts/nuts..


[/quote]





Hey, Collin



I looked to see if i had it but can't find it.

If you can send me a sensor for the whole.

I would be glad to pay for it.

shipping info is:

California Gold

1951 Old Cuthbert Rd. suite 105

Cherry Hill, NJ 08034



Please let me know how much it will cost me.



Thanks again,

Alex M.

Hey I have everything hooked up and I turn the key it starts right up , the rpm goes to 2000rpm then it shuts down. then i noticed there is gas leaking through the injectors. What is the first steps i should take in this matter. I'm happy that it started up.

and it sounded pretty damn good.

Ok I fixed the vac problem and fuel leak.

the car starts up fine the idle will rise to 3000rpm then drop. when it drops it bounces up and down. What can I do about this.

Adjust the tps.

anyone have an extra tps laying around.

yours probably isnt bad you just need to adjust it.

**** I've been adjusting the tps for about a month. It starts out working good then it goes back to baouncing.

I have it parked right now. I don't want to drive it if it is not adjusted properly.

Wow I have stripped mine down and got it running again, I adjusted my tps one time and its fine. You sure you dotn have a vaccum leak.

check your grounds, might be a current problem.