for starters I am going to throw a walbro and some injectors on a virtually stock Turbo II with an FCD ...



I need to know what injectors to run for primaries and secondaries...



also.... I need to know if when I use an FCD and a boost controller if the boost controller will not allow boost past the 9psi that I am going to set it at.... and if the BC can allow it to go that low....

If you are keeping the stock ecu, I would keep the stock primaries (have them cleaned and checked, of course). I have heard that you can do okay with a small upgrade for the secondaries on the stock ecu--750 cc/min?

that sounds like a plan to me...



what about the second question thing... (about the boost controller)

I would think most any boost controller could be set to 9 psi.



Have you opened up the exhaust and intake any? Or is it still stock?



If you improve the breathing over the stock setup, you may want to port the stock wastegate, especially if your T2 is an S4 ('87-'88).

a pretty populare mod is to get the rtek 1.7 chip and 720 cc secondary injectors, this chip gives you plenty of fuel for what ever the stock turbo can do, as well as has a built in flood clear, and removes the boost cut completly , and allows the ecu to actually see how much boost your running and keep retarding timing when above 8 psi, then u can toss that fcd away!





the ecu is 125 www.pocketlogger.com has it

that sounds pretty good actually.... researching ***

it has some silly exhaust on it and I got rid of the air box and used an HKS filter



pretty much I am just going for the reliability for right now... so anything else that would help to the cause feel free to mention

A couple things, MazdaEnthused:



First, if you are using the stock ECU, do *not* change the injectors, especially the primaries. No amount of piggy back boxes or kludging the stock system will get it to run right with different-sized injectors.



Secondly, a boost controller cannot reduce the peak limit of boost a setup can hit; it can only raise it. The lowest possible amount of boost you can run is dictated by a combination of the wastegate spring itself as well as its dependance upon a properly functioning plumbing system for the wastegate.



Thirdly, with respect to the FCD, there's a reason why the old Mazda EFI system has a fuel cut on it. Eliminating it with an FCD to stretch that limit out can prove to be a deadly affair later in life when you're running the car at 10-11-12psi, all the while thinking it's fine, just to come out of a 3rd gear run to find the motor low on compression in one chamber.



My recommendation for you is to ditch this approach and save up your coin for a good, stndalone EFI system. That particular system I think ya ought to get is a used Haltech E6K. Once you have one of those, or another equally powerful standalone unit, then the sky's the limit: You can change injectors whenever you wish, you can change all of your other fuel system components, and you can change the turbo and even engine stuff, and be able to properly tune around it for real reliability and power.



B

well a stand alone would be amazing but I am really looking for something that will be reliable for this summers' driving because come next fall I will be tearing the car down for a complete restoration from the ground up... and hopefully going standalone as well...



and as far at the boost controller... I want to be around 9psi no more then that.... I am worried about it spiking or not being able to hold it at 9ish

id have to say if the guy is even asking the origional question he is not ready for a standalone and does not understand enough to tune one him self and would have to pay quite alot for someone else to do it.





this is why i have recomended the rtek 1.7 which is a retuned stock ecu designed to use 720 cc secondary injectors and has fuel and timing designed for running boost past the fuel cut ( which it actually eliminates completly)