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Aniversary 7 07-23-2006 05:51 PM

Hi all I am posting this with hopes to get some useful info.



Prior to putting the new engine in I need some info and advice.



So far I have...

#1- The car with the stock engine in it that I can not get to run.



#2- A new stage 3 ported and polished engine.



#3- A full 3 inch downpipe with 2 welded bung holes one for a stock 02 sensor and one for a wideband 02 sensor, Stock cat for emmisions, and a 80mm Cork Sport Full Turbo Back Exhaust & Apexi Exhaust Control Valve.



Now before I have the engine put in I want to get a few things to make sure it will run properly and I want to do it the right way from the start. I know once I put in the new engine and put on my new exhaust the stock ECU will not be able to supply enough fuel for the amount of boost I will hit due to changing the exhuast and air filter. The most important thing for me to decide on is which stand alone ecu would be best for my car and me! I would hope to get one that I can learn to tune myself. Originally I was looking at the Microtech lt10s, I was adviced by a friend that he has the Wolf3D V4 Plus and that I might want to consider getting that ecu(Wolf3D V4 Plus ) for my car becuase he learned to tune it and i might be able to too.





Which stand alone ecu would be best for my car and easy for me to learn to tune myself?? Is the Wolf3D V4 Plus a good ECU?



What I am concerned with is starting the car after installing which ever ecu i end up with, with out hurting my new engine. I want a ecu which would be easy for me to learn to tune myself so I can keep the car running properly. The exhaust I have for the car has a Apexi Exhaust Control Valve which allows me to tune my exhaust from inside the car by pushing and pulling a small lever. So basically I can change the flow and loudness of the exhaust from inside the car on the fly! That is why I want to be able to tune my ecu myself. If I have the ECV all the way open then I need to be able to retune the ecu to correspond properly with the exhaust fully open... Then if I partially close the ECV i would want to be able to retune the ECU to correspond properly with the partially open exhaust.



I was looking to buy some secondary injectors to replace the stock ones(1987 turbo2) should i go for 720cc or bigger? Also is there a certian impedence or spray...Anything I should know when ordering injectors?







Thanks all...

1Revvin7 07-23-2006 08:12 PM

720cc will work just fine for the stock turbo with a bigger fuel pump.



Sounds like you should get the wolf because you have a friend that knows how to use it. Always get an ecu that you can get help with; the best ecu isn't worth **** if you don't know how to use it...

cymfc3s 07-23-2006 10:15 PM

I agree with 1Revvin7. I love the Haltech, and luckily when I got my E6k installed, i was able to have Paul Ko and Mike help getting it running. If you have a buddy that has experience with the Wolf, or even better, a local shop that has a dyno and can tune it go for it.

1Revvin7 07-24-2006 12:08 AM

Personally I've played with and tuned a lot of EMS on many different cars, and I like AEM's stuff. I worked on a 2jz with an AEM the other day, and the unit's capabilites are phenominal.

turborotor 07-24-2006 01:46 PM

If you have a local friend that has wolf, go with wolf.



I have both e6k and wolf3d 4 plus.



If you are not going to use the extra outputs of the plus or go 3rotor just get the regular.



I like the wolf3d 4 over e6k due to is ability to run sequential fuel injection on the primaries. This improves driveability and be able to run leaner at idle. I can run 720cc and not be pig rich at idle. I can round 14 afr.

The other reason is no laptop to haul around.

Aniversary 7 07-24-2006 10:40 PM


Originally Posted by turborotor' post='829880' date='Jul 24 2006, 10:46 AM

If you have a local friend that has wolf, go with wolf.



I have both e6k and wolf3d 4 plus.



If you are not going to use the extra outputs of the plus or go 3rotor just get the regular.



I like the wolf3d 4 over e6k due to is ability to run sequential fuel injection on the primaries. This improves driveability and be able to run leaner at idle. I can run 720cc and not be pig rich at idle. I can round 14 afr.

The other reason is no laptop to haul around.



Ok I am still new to a stand alone and i dont understand what 14 AFR is. My friend that has the Wold system lives in Nevada and I live in NY so he really won't be able to help me tune it. Is the wolf 3d v400 a good system and is it hard to learn to tune? No one in my area uses the wolf system. If I do get the wolf and install it with my new engine will it automatically run or will I have a hard time getting the car to start and idle? Can i hurt my engine if I don't know how to tune it properly at first?

Slipknot Rob 07-24-2006 11:09 PM

I'm looking at getting a Mircrotech for my car in the future as they're commonly used here in Aus. There's a rotary workshop nearby that commonly install and tune these ecus. After the ecu is installed and tuned it only needs to be tuned once further mods are performed, correct? Say I had the ecu installed and tuned, then installed a FMIC or something then I would take it to the get the ecu re-tuned to make the most of the mod?



Aniversary 7, I believe the 14AFR is the air:fuel ratio, where 14parts air to one part fuel, hence 14:1 or 14AFR, is neither lean nor rich for the engine. I believe this number is actually 14.5:1 or something more specifically as it's the stoichiometric ratio of the perfect combustion of petrol/gasoline, where the most energy will be available from a certain volume of fuel. The other guys should be able to verify this?

Aniversary 7 07-25-2006 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by Slipknot Rob' post='829953' date='Jul 24 2006, 08:09 PM

I'm looking at getting a Mircrotech for my car in the future as they're commonly used here in Aus. There's a rotary workshop nearby that commonly install and tune these ecus. After the ecu is installed and tuned it only needs to be tuned once further mods are performed, correct? Say I had the ecu installed and tuned, then installed a FMIC or something then I would take it to the get the ecu re-tuned to make the most of the mod?



Aniversary 7, I believe the 14AFR is the air:fuel ratio, where 14parts air to one part fuel, hence 14:1 or 14AFR, is neither lean nor rich for the engine. I believe this number is actually 14.5:1 or something more specifically as it's the stoichiometric ratio of the perfect combustion of petrol/gasoline, where the most energy will be available from a certain volume of fuel. The other guys should be able to verify this?





Thank you for explaining to me I just mearned something new. And I want to learn all I can. I want to be able to fix and tune my car myself.


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