Just a quick question, and apologies if it's outta place, or unnecessary; I couldn't find my answer with search. However, does anyone know the fastest you can get an FC NA, and what would be needed? My car's pretty gutted out of internals, probably gonna replace the glass with plastics eventually, exhaust and intake is done, so I think I'm about a quarter-way there, but I could be wrong. Only reason I ask is because I have a friend with a Trans Am, and I at least wanna know if it's possible to stand a chance without going turbo.

In the quarter mile? Autocross? All-out top speed? What year/condition/mods for the Trans Am?



Either way, the answer depends on a lot of things, not the least of which is driver skill.

ower race car wich is at 2144 pounds with 205whp a prather short ratio syncro mesh gear box and a 5.13 diff tops out at 139 mph on a 9200 rpm rev limit. but getting to the 139 mph is pretty damn quick lol

talking quarters for now (though I kinda hate 1/4 mile runs; then again my last car was a 3000GT SL) she's currently running high 11s in her TA, don't remember all the mods, but I know she got a 75 shot of nitrous that she has yet to try out.

Your NA doesn't stand a chance. No matter what you do she will beat you in a 1/4 mile. It's cheaper to buy a turbo RX-7 and make that faster then build up your NA to do a 11 sec 1/4 mile. If it is a newer car she would beat you in an auto-x unless you upgraded your suspension and driver skill plays a lot too.

disagree big time with this negative nacy statment. my 89 gxl full interior stock 90k motor rx7 with a stero system and a 100 shot ran 12s in the 1/4. there was only a rb header hks 60mm cat back and rb sylencer and and hks megaflow and a jacobs hot box. and asfar as suspention it wouldnt take that much for a second gen to make a TA look stupid on an auto x cone killing track. TA and Camaros are slush boxes and stock handle for **** and really are not that quick stock in a 1/4 either. so all you would have to do is loose alot of weight by taking everything out the car that is not needed, run a little larger secondary injector , a 150 wet shot and put some sticky tires on it and that car would be low 12s high 11s. a turbo full interior 90 turbo 2 with 433 whp i did some work on ran 11.2 at 133 all day long every day it went and that was almost a 2800 pound car with a stock gear box and diff wich was a 4.10. now go and get a 4.88 or a 5.13 diff loose the weight in the car wich a second gen can get down to 2100 pounds very very easly with a 125 to 150 wet shot and proper tuning n i bet easy that will be a high 11s car.



randy

Yeah I'm pushing about 160-180hp (estimate) right now, so a few more mods and it should be solid for at least decent quarter times. Also donhayes, I'm staying NA because I'm not particularly a fan of turbocharged engines, not that turbo has any issues, but it's just not really my style. I waited a long time to come across a 13B and I'm not gonna throw that patience out of the window just so I can take the quick and easy way. Whipping muscle ass is more entertaining when you're running natural, and seeing as most of my interior's getting torn out anyway, I might actually be able to shave this thing to a good 2200lbs or less. P:W is where it's at in the japanese market in my experience, and the P is okay for now, so I might as well work the natural advantages of the RX-7 (higher rpms, overall balance) to snatch a win rather than throwing new engines in.

If this is a WS6 hang it up, these cars with basic bolt-ons, on a tire & a decent shot of nitrous will put up good times in the 1/4. Not saying that the NA FC can't put down good times but the car will start to get unstreetable when in the range to beat the WS6 still in modified street trim.

i beg to differ on that, you can with enuff money and the right set up beat a TA with an fc na easy and still be very streetable and leagle.

i beg to differ on that, you can with enuff money and the right set up beat a TA with an fc na easy and still be very streetable and leagle.

Well I know of a few 10 sec 1/4 mile WS6's that will pass a smog & be reliable on an daily use. I don't see you taking the NA to those times without affecting the reliability & matching comfort that the WS6 will provide. In an auto x type situation NA FC for the win. If you want to compare stock for stock & not have either side have mods still a win for the WS6 in the 1/4.

FC3Sboy you said your car weighs 2144 lbs, we will say that is with the weight of the driver okay. 2144 lbs @ 205 rwhp would put you in the mid 12's at around 107 mph. Now this car I would say to get to this weight would involve some cutting, lexan & loss of some items needed to be a functional daily driver. A stock WS6 can pull a 13.2 @ 108 mph on a standard tire, I have seen them run in the 11's on a BFG & a 150 shot. Throw in a cam, header, exhaust & some suspension & you are on your way. Trust me I hate these asshats with their nitrous & semi slicked V8's talking ****, but when comparing the cars you have to factor in the level of modification involved to get each to a predetermined time & mph. At the end look at what you have, which one could you take on a trip, to the store or just chill out in.

i have seen first hand what ws6's can do if it is an LS1 with spray an na rx7 will have to be a P-Port Nitrous breather to run with a ls1 ws6 and even then. I do installs in cars nitrous, ecu's, ect... i installed a direct port nitrous kit on a 2001 camaro LS1 and it was set up for a 200 shot car had computer work CAI, msd ignition, Full length headers and straight through exhaust, and was geared and running slicks and ran an 10.9 in the 1/4



Just math/paper racing

ls1 camaro 320 bhp(conservative Stock HP) + 200 Shot + Bolt On's = estimated 580hp/3300 curb weight 5.7lb per hp

S5 rx7 160 bhp + 150 shot + bolt on's estimated 330hp/2200 lb 6.7 lb per hp



you would need a 385 HP na rx7 to at least match on paper and a 385 hp N/A 13b is a little unrealistic IMO

Like said above P-port definitely would be needed & to get the car down to 2144 lbs is a stretch for a daily car. I agree with 13b 4 UR AZZ in saying it would be unrealistic. You would need a highly modified NA FC to compete with a lightly modded WS6 in a straight. So beg to differ all you want FC3Sboy, but take a moment to really think about the situation before opposing.

Im not at all saying it cant be done I saw a suzuki side kick that was peripheral ported and a direct shot of an un known amount run 10's at the track a few years back but the guy blew the motor mid track on the third run of the day. the whole front end of the motor blew off like if it ripped the threads out of the front iron. they where revving the **** out of it to get to launch right if not it would bog out. no way that car could be driven on the street so all im saying that it is unrealistic to make any kind of power on an n/a and have it street drivable or even reliable drag racing.

Yeah I never said it couldn't be done either, just I don't agree with his statement of it being easy to accomplish. I definitely think sacrifices would have to made & in the long run money could be spent more wisely in a different route to the goal with less of an issue as a street car. To look at the fact that there will be some sort of budget involved & given that the WS6 would take less to achieve 10's & still could be used in an everyday situation just seems more practical. BTW 10's are just a time for comparison. A well built & tuned turbo car would be a better choice IMO, but if someone is set on maxing out the NA then that's their decision. Also remember nitrous is a power adder thus changing the dynamic of the NA, but I guess that doesn't matter since we are talking what it would take to get the NA FC to beat the WS6.

true adding nitrous defeats the n/a dynamic LOL so to put it easier the only way to beat a WS6 with an n/a rx7 would be if the engine is on a go cart then i see you going after Ferrari's lol https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

Hmmm sounds like a great idea, Go-cart + BP 13b! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

Thank god you got rid of that overweight & under powered car. VR4's can be nice, but SL should be followed by OW. Not to mention the FWD set up in the SL was a terrible idea.

I had a automatic 1994 SLow with a few mods (Spray, Headers, Intake, Cam, Cam Gears, Underdrive Pullies, Full Exhaust, Trans shift points raised) and let me tell you it was anything but SLow it was a monster on the highway id hang with a few cars i never thought possible

My stock SLow still put arrogant drivers in their place behind me on the road, and it's not much slower than my FC is now. I didn't get rid of it because I wanted to; assholes fucked her up hardcore.

How many miles do you have on your fc?

Might have seemed pretty quick. If I remember right world's fastest SL on boost only runs 11.48 @ 127 mph & the world's fastest VR4 runs 9.66. These cars have been extensively modded, while the times they made are not shabby by any means just not the greatest. Think about it depending on the year the car weighed in between 3200 & 3800 lbs at 220 crank horsepower. Okay now with the mods you listed going with a moderate 100 shot, that puts the SL slightly above the factory rating of a VR4 which could net a 13.7. Now I was wandering since you said cam was yours one of the early 12v single cam versions, because they on produced 160 to the crank thus not even putting you at the stock VR4 rating. While saying the car might have been a mid 13 car definitely not fast. They were indeed very good looking cars & had great interiors.

SOHC 3000GT came into circulation in 1995 and was only done to the base model 3000GT; the SLs still kept their DOHC and 222 hp stock. Mitsu did it to keep the base out there and give people performance reasons (in my opinion) to buy the SL model. The 94 SL may have been a little sluggish, but it kept up with what it was supposed to. I could bypass any Mustang V6, just like a VR4 would run against the 'stang GT. The fastest SL bagged a not too shabby 10.191 quarter time, not 11 (I dig the specifics), but the fastest VR4 runs about a..9.214, courtesy of 3SX performance. Now I'm not saying the SL was a firebreathing monster shooting lightning from the headlights, but it wasn't just the brick that everyone thought it out to be. Maybe it was just me outlaunching, but I didn't feel much fear with whatever loudmouth might've been sitting beside me.



@thatpoorguy, my FC's got about 141xxx on it, supposedly only 39k since the rebuild, which it does sound pretty solid, but using the same injectors after a rebuild makes me a little skeptical, but I can't be sure how long that car had been sitting after that or the conditions.

Nice wasn't aware that they got their car in the low 9's. I haven't kept up on 3000's or DSM's in awhile. I wasn't trying to offend anyone on the SL thing, but you can't deny that the VR4 was a better choice. V6 Stangs LOL my daily Spec V walks them on a regular basis & it's a four door 4 cyl FWD. The 98 V6's made 150 hp in 2006 the made 210 so yes definitely a good victory for the 3000GT/Stealth. That still doesn't change the fact that a lightly modded SL was a pig, now if you wanted to go all out sure it could produce decent times. With that said other cars at the level they are in lay down better times. Most of the guys I know with VR4's use them as their daily & race their GSX's which are on the tail of the world's fastest 3000GT's.

Yeah, I always ask for paperwork to prove that it's been rebuilt if I'm told that. Even with a turbocharged engine it's fun to walk all over muscle cars. Most racing bodies determine that a rotary should be classed at twice it's displacement, meaning any 13b powered car will be considered a 2.6. Add forced induction and they'll double your displacement again putting you at 5.2L. I have no problem taking most v8 muscle cars, though vetted can pose problems if they have many mods because of their low weight. I'd say rebuild and turbo your car and start romping on those big Detroit iron toys.

A buddy of mine has a modded Z06 on the spray, that thing is a monster on the highway.

Yeah, I love my 3000GTs, been my dream car since I was about 12, so 11 years now I've wanted one. I got the SL and was disappointed at first, but on a street scale they're not a slow car; however, this isn't 3si or ink3s so I think I'm gonna leave the 3S talk for there. As it stands, I think i'm just gona save up and stick he 20b in the FC, give people something to look out for on the road.

Good choice, but a pricy option. Best of luck man.



@rotor dad, when I was in Texas I lived about a 10 minute drive from nitrous express. They cut deals for locals so a ton of cars were running nitro, including about 3 of every 5 muscle corvettes. We'd all hang out at the local sonic and pop hoods. I'd bring some tools and the rotary guys would all help each other chase bugs and increase power. We had to stick together there with the only rotary shop being more than a two hour drive away.

I hear you I'm the oddball at the local car meets surrounded by DSM's, Honda's & V8 guys.

Yeah, now I'm home in Indiana. There are a couple rx8's but they're owned by high schoolers. Other than that it's all camaros and mustangs or an occasional vette. It really sucks cause I don't even have much jdm support here, everyone is "buy American" :/

And here my brother gives me **** daily callin my FC a Ford....

Lol actually ford owned Mazda for a time so he's not far off. That's why rangers look like b2000's and why probes are rebadged 626's. The faster of the probes had the Mazda v-6 in it lol

Yeah but my argument is Ford never had a wankel in their engine lineup

True, and I'm glad, ford's ecu's are a pain. I've done too many f-150's throwing codes of p0171/p0174 bank 1/2 running lean because of a damn vacuum leak. I hate chasing vacuum leaks lol