well as you may not know, i just put an engine in my fc, well all whent in well but the damn thing whont start and it is driving me crazzy!!!!!!!!!

well checked everything from spark to injectors all is good, new gas good pluggs injectors are good no leacks from what i know.

well today i disided i was going to try again... crank....crank...vroom...bla bla bla....dies....crank.....crank...poof...???????... ..crank....crank.....poof....FIRE!!!!!!!.........o h ****!!!!!!...grab hose spray till no flame..... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

well luckly i got the flame out before it runined any wires, but it toastes all vacume lines... ****!, apperintly a sec. injectore was leaking, and started a fire from one of the flames coming out of the exhoast(it is just the manafold)



but please can some one help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

Did you time the thing? Check the plug wires are right?

damn that sucks

i was leaking gas from an injector pretty bad too. luckly it sounds like it wasnt as bad as yours. time the mother fucker, get ur injectors cleaned, and then replace the vacuum hoses and u should be alright. btw what are the specs on your motor? sp, bp???

how would i time it when it whont start???? and specs as in what???

um the iinjectors are clean they spray realy good, and it was an o'ring

on one of the injectors was sheired, must have done it putting it in..

i may have got them wronge for some reason(plugg wires) so if a pic or diagram that shows the order would be nice??

the motor and the coils are labeled L1 T1 and L2 T2

this may help for people salving my prob(kjhgkjhkjfh) the main pully with the timing marks was removed when i got it, and there was no marks on how it was supust to go on.......

and the motor is stock port

Does your crank pulley have marks on it?

Theres only one way it can go on...



Id zero your timing ( put the rotor at TDC and stab the CAS ) and see if that helps.

Also, how are you sure that both rotors are getting spark?

well i am shure that it is becouse i did the hole pull the plugg wire off and see if it is sparking thing, but may have looked over the rear plugg on accd. i will check and if spark then it is timing, but even if the spark is not there i think i will still need to time it..

oh i did find some sort ove notch on the main pully thingy but i don't know if it was right or not but it was like a v groove taken out and it lined up with the leading mark when i bolted the main pully back on?

Sounds like your fustrated give us more input in what is going on with your car.



1.IN detail what is happening step by step each time you unflood the car and then try to start it up again?

today i whent outside to the car fixed the leaking injector, then i tested the leading coil by pully each plugg wire one at a time and seeing if they are sparking.. they both spark just fine? then i looked at my cas.. well i had it in wrong... it was advanced way to far so useing the leading mark on the main pully i lined up the cas, and noticed that it was advanced...(the top rotor was past the point thingy)

after doing this i turned it over and it was making more progress on trying to start, ae. as in the engine was going a little faster but still not staying running without the help of the starter.



i did a little expearment and switched the leading plugg wires and it did the same thing, no dif?????? so i removed the trailing plugg wires and it does the same thing??



tdc is when the rear rotor's apex seal lines up with the leading plugg hole right???



and i am lost, with the leading coils the one with the white dot goes to the rear rotor or the front?????

I know this is a lame answer but got to Lighting in a world of thunder(it seems today Ive been sending a lot of people to this site). This should COVER ALL your bases as far as timing and ATF fluid and such.

Come back to here for more help. it can be so many things . Lets cover the bases then work from there.





VOSKO whats your TWO CENTS??

It doesnt matter which leading plug wire goes to what. They both fire at the same time, all the time. What matters is youre trailing plugs. Theyre the ones that can be mixed up.



When I was stabbing the CAS on my car, I just lined up the mark on the crank pulley with the little timing thing sitcking out of the block. Then I just stuck the CAS in as close as I could and only had to mess with it a little bit when it started.

If the pulley was ever taken off and you just put it back on it may not be in the right position to fix this problem take the pulley back off and be sure the key on the e-shaft is pointing towards the exhaust ports then reinstall the pulley with the timing marks facing the aligment needle. Then put the cas in without letting it turn and you should be timed right.

ok good that is what i needed to hear, but now i need to put oil in it becouse i am a dumb ass and was useing a wrench to turn it over, well forgot the wrench on the main pully and turned it over, thus unscrewing the thermal pellet and shooting oil all over the engine.....

man i need some one to be there and tell me what is going on i am lost, oh one question what would happen if i mixed the primary injector wires, as in put the wrong one on it thus mixing them up?

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Hmm....I dont think its like that on FC's...



I know on my 89 T2, the 4 holes on the pulley are drilled in an offset patter. Kinda like a square with one corner stretched out too far. This makes it so the pulley can only go on one way. I know SA/FB's arent like that though...

When that bolt came out, did you let your foot off the clutch?...



That can cause major problems if you did.



http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

I had to do this to my '86 engine when i changed the front cover like an idiot, I'll have to check but I don't think it's different any way it's a perfect square. But I'll double check.

no it has bean in nutral the hole time, but by doing this i hope i didn't **** up the end play... i think i have the timing pully in the right spot i think it is somthing different, all apex seals are good but the engine was cabon locked, so maybe i am not at full compresion on the rear rotor??? or the fuel injecters are just fludding the **** out of it every time i try to start it???? well tomarow i order my starter for my fb and fix the water leak and junk, but i am wondering if i was to put the racing beat carb on the car could i still use the crank cas with the carb?

well mazda trix said it is supost to move just a little as in .0025, so i stuck a screwdriver behind the pull and forced it out lightly to see how much it moved and it moves just a little, and they said if it does'nt than the baring is off so i should be okay( i hope)

i hate to say this but with all the money i have put in this so far ($500)

and it still whont run, i could have had a good running 350 in it and be driving it to. and i am not going to put any more money into it eather so if i can't get the thing to run its getting a sbc under the hood. but i still will have my fb.....