Hey for anyone out there who would know, what could I expect to pay for a 1988 10AE Turbo II Rebuild. That and how long could I expect to do the rebuild, my brother is pretty car Saavy and he's gonna help me. If my questions are stupid... well it't kinda that I am stupid. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif
Oh yea, and what parts would I need, so I don't get hosed... |
well it depends on how long you need it to last and what kind of shape its in now. if the engine is in average shape and you want it to last a long time ,its gonna need rotor housings, apex seals, rotor oil seals, the rotor oil seal o rings, side seals, water pump, thermostat, all the water hoses, pulsation damper and a clutch. it can be done in a weekend, but its much nicer if you can spend a saturday pulling it out, sunday cleaning, build the motor duiring the week, and have all weekend to put it in, so its not rushed.
expect to spend about $1500-2000 for all the parts mike |
Took me a week or two to r&r&r my motor, didn't replace nuthin but seals and gaskets cost me $450 and she runs like she was brand new.
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Cost me about 1400-1500 to rebuild my n/a. That was for seals and gaskets, different rotor and housing for the rear, new bearings, porting and all the other little stuff that added up along the way. I was slow though, took me the better part of 3 months to get it back together. You might definitely want to replace the clutch when the engine is out.
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I got an engine from a friend. It a J-spec engine but the rear rotor has bad compression. I got it real cheap so I thought this would be a cool engine to learn on. Amyway, I did the bench compresion test like in the Atkins video. I only get 4 chugs of air which means one apex seal should be bad, Right? My question is if I check all the clearances, and nothing is loose or scratched, can I get by by just putting in New apex seals and gaskets? I don't want spend over $1000 on parts just yet till after I rebuild this one and I am sure I did it right. After a few months then maybe I will spend the money and get a whole rebuild kit and 3mm seals.......Am I a retard for trying this or is it a good Idea?
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Originally Posted by 75 Repu' date='Oct 24 2002, 12:28 PM
I got an engine from a friend. It a J-spec engine but the rear rotor has bad compression. I got it real cheap so I thought this would be a cool engine to learn on. Amyway, I did the bench compresion test like in the Atkins video. I only get 4 chugs of air which means one apex seal should be bad, Right? My question is if I check all the clearances, and nothing is loose or scratched, can I get by by just putting in New apex seals and gaskets? I don't want spend over $1000 on parts just yet till after I rebuild this one and I am sure I did it right. After a few months then maybe I will spend the money and get a whole rebuild kit and 3mm seals.......Am I a retard for trying this or is it a good Idea?
read thru the manual they tell you what to look for, usually you dont have to do any measuring, if it passes the visual its usually good. mike |
Damn, thats more than I need, I was thinking of getting it going and then doing a Major rebuild before Sevenstock Next year. So I would need about a year worth of time for it to last....Then I could piece together the parts for my next rebuild and modify them......that sounds good. Thanks Mike.
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Originally Posted by 75 Repu' date='Oct 24 2002, 12:56 PM
Damn, thats more than I need, I was thinking of getting it going and then doing a Major rebuild before Sevenstock Next year. So I would need about a year worth of time for it to last....Then I could piece together the parts for my next rebuild and modify them......that sounds good. Thanks Mike.
mike |
That one with the New decals was real nice...I posted some new pics Yesterday on Mazdarepu.com They are in the Gallery section under Sevenstock5, My truck is the ugly Black one in Draggin_2600i's Album.....
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it looks like the body on yours is straight and rust free, thats a big plus
mike |
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