How do people get their cars emissions tested. It seems that most of the major modification to the rotary engines cause them to fail emissions.



What is the extent of the modifications one can do to a TII while still passing emissions? My state has the sniffer emissions test.



Also... if i swapped a 13brewtt into the car and put cats back in for the emissions test and lowered the boost would it pass? o, also will the TII tranny bolt up to the 13brew block?

thanks

I'm pretty much just talking out of my ass here, but it seems to me that if your car has a good working cat, stock ports, and is tuned dead on, then you should be able to pass emissions. You might do a search for more info. I'm pretty sure there have been other threads here regarding this topic.



For instance, some good reading here: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=55887

You're limited by the catylic converter. You can get them to pass with downpipes, properly tuned fuel computers, and even larger ports sometimes. However, as long as that main cat is in place, your power potential is going to be restricted to low-mid 200s. I wouldn't recommend any advanced modifications past your standard intake/exhaust/fuel computer jazz because once you start making more power your going to slay that converter and melt your carpet and generally make a big mess.



The T2 tranny's bellhousing will bolt right up to the 13brew.



The 13brew will pass emissions, I think the rule goes as long as the motor is newer than the car it's going into, it'll pass visual.



Steve

I have no problems bolting in the catalytics for the emissions testing https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif. Would a street ported motor have a chance at passing? What if the boost was turned down to stock or even 0?

have a converter flanged and bolted on.



I think people should use converters, if the factories can get 600-700 and more horsepower with converters so can we.



this is not 1980 anymore where converters were very restrictive



you can also have the exaust flanged and bolt up the converters for testing,then take them off again- be sure to tune the car for both.

well i know for me when i go take my emissions i dont think im going to have a chance to hit boost .. so i dont think it will really matter were your boost is set at... for me i slowly rev to 25mph and stay there.. so yea boost i dont think will matter..

they run them on wheel dynos here, you have to accelerate at the rate they tell you to or else you fail, you cant just ease on up- everyone would do that to pass.



You also have to slow down at the rate they tell you, I think in all they put 3-4 miles on the car for the test



by "you" I mean the tech doing the inspection.