anyone running a electric fan with a FMIC AND AC?



I really want to clean up the bay and run a nice shrouded electric fan in my car, but im worried it wont suck

enough air through the FMIC, AC condensor, and the Koyo radiator?



anyone with real world expierence?



I have done some reading around it seems that the stock fan just might be best.

I know I have always given the advice that the stock fan with a properly operating cooling system is all you need, but

that was for NA cars.

stock fan, or get the black magic fan i have 3,300cfm, but you may need to have someone modify the koyo's necks to fit the fan and shroud onto the readiator (i needed 2" extension on my fluidyne before my fluidyne crapped out)

the tarus fan assembly almost bolts right on and moves a ton of air

I'd buy an electric fan, and just build a shroud. You got good fabrication skills, you could make something pull good air.



Hows the radiator though? Condensor, and FMIC? All new I'm assuming? Fins aren't clogged or bent on anything... No reason you wouldn't be able to keep the car cool with a generic fan pulling air through an proper shroud.

Nothing beats the OEM setup period.



Due to me wanting to keep my FD engine complete without swapping other parts on I went electric, I have the Be Cool duel 11" electric fans from Summit. They are pricey, and you have to build your own circuit to handle the amp draw but they work great.



I run a FMIC and A/C in Florida problem free.

no bent fins, im going to just run the stock set up and see what happens.



I would not buy a junk yard fan and put it in my car, and that taurus fan spikes at 40 amps, thats alot of draw!



I remember Jim getting a fan set up, if it works in florida it will work in New York

I dont remember where me and my friend bought it but it is an E-fan with an aluminum shroud that we bought pre made i think it was like $115 came pre drilled and everything made specifically for an RX-7. when we did the turbo swap on his car before the V8 swap it cooled the engine perfect and i am in miami and this was during the summer time. only after a few hard runs would the temp go up a bit mabey 190-200 max we ever saw it go up and that was after like 5 continuous light to light runs as soon as we pulled over temps came down in no time mabey 2 min. all the while temps where 180 +-1

sneedspeed sells a fan and shroud that is FC specific, the fan is only 2100cfm though, wonder if thats enough



http://www.sneedspeedshop.com/store/...x7shroudbg.jpg

It's not, get the 3300cfm Black Magic fan mentioned above. I have that one on my car with A/C and a dual-pass Koyo, it moves a ton of air and is QUIET too. I did have to modify the shroud to make it fit perfect though. You can kind of see how it fits in the pic. You can also see the edge of the blade itself too because I didn't get the shroud cut as perfect as I would have liked...



Attachment 18731

black magic a summit item I assume?



milt- I see ac in your car, so I assume you use it or is it just there?





nice engine bay btw!

sneed said he would make me a set up like I pictured with a larger fan, so that seems like the way I will go.

That pic was before the system was complete, I had to have one of the stock hoses redone after putting the FD UIM on. I actually like the metal shroud on the sneedspeed one, with a larger fan I'm sure it'll work very well and look great too!

Here is the mount on the Be Cool fans.



We used aluminum brackets that sealed off the fan to the sides of the radiator. They move a ton of air and right now, with the cooler weather I do not see anything over 160° driving around town. On the interstate it barely hits 180°. I do not run a thermostat.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y2...3/CIMG2702.jpg



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y2...3/CIMG2703.jpg



This fan moves 2780 cfm and draws 25 amps. Some day I want to wire it up to run only 1 fan and only fire up the second when it hits 190°.



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

that is the one my friend had and it cooled his car fine even with a stock radiator

some feel the thicker core radiators are HARDER to cool with weaker fans, they have to work too hard, especially with a FMIC

"i can see no falter in your logic" but think about it at low speed and cruise you are not boosting and the natural air flow is more than enough at cruise even at idle you are not boosting soo the fmic is not hot get my point?

I know one person who had a really thick radiator on his FC, with the FMIC it did not get enough air when driving, it was TOO thick!

FYI - I took my car out this morning and put 100 miles on it breaking it in. The air temp is in the 45° range and I could never get my engine over 150° all morning no matter the driving.

It's right in front of the rad, it's going to get heat soaked. If the car is warmed up, the FMIC will be hot.



A really thick FMIC has alot of surface area to cool. I'm sure the weaker fan was working fine no problem, but another story is could it pull enough of a mass of air past the total thickness of all the components before the air became too hot and was no longer really effective.



Stop thinking about stock radiator for a second. Think about surface area and thermal transfer. Sure it cools with a stock rad no problem. It's only half as thick as an aftermarket one. The thickness is an obstruction. Obstruction to flow means the fan has to work harder, draws more power, and turns slower. That's the whole reason people get at bigger radiator. More surface area means more thermal transfer, so the car runs cooler. You ever hear about some guys notice their car running hotter with an upgraded radiator when they're sitting at a stop light right after beating the **** out of the car? Good rad, shitty fan. The opposite from the scenario you posted earlier (shitty rad, good fan, beacuse as you said the temperature came down after sitting still).



Just imagine the sum. Take a fan, and put it in front of a 3" radiator. Take the same fan, and put it in front of the exact same radiator and fins, only 6" this time. Does the fan have to work harder? Yes, the fins create resistance to flow. It's an obstruction. Will the fan still be as effective on the 6" as the 3"? No. It can't be.