My wife just informed me that the pulley and blockoff plate arrived. Thanks banzai!
Is the pulley install pretty simple? Will I need an impact wrench? Will I need longer bolts? And any auto parts store should have the belt I need, right? Any specific numbers or or type or anything? Should I replace the other belt as well, or does it matter if one is new and one is not? And I was planning on using some gasket sealant on the plate. Let me know if I should not use that, or otherwise. Thanks! |
you do need an impact gun on the pulley, its about a 5 minute job that way https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png
and yes use sealant on the acv plate, i also like to leave that little round check valve in there mike |
I would also recomend two new belts, so that way in case one is stretched out, there will be equal tension on both
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thanks for the info
ok, in lack of a current source for an impact gun, I'm gonna go the hard way and try the big-bar-and-ratchet method...wish me luck! (hopefully I can do this tonight) |
Just take off the alt. Take to autone advance or napa. most of these have an electric impact gun for doing this. John
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cool...that sounds like a better alternative
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ok, since I won't be doing it myself, and I don't want the guy screwing something up: which way does it go on? does the recessed flat side go against the alt., or does the tapered-inward side face the alt?
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ive always wondered what the advantages of this mod are
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NO breaking alternator belts when the air pump, ps, a/c are removed. Really it's to maintain the proper amount of contact and drive to the water pump when the air pump is removed
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ahhhh thanks
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relocate your alternator to where the PS/AC bracket was previously and you can probably get away with
just single belt, and lowers some mass in the car too. |
http://www.evil7.com/images/evil7%20october%2011.jpg
something like that, the bracket should be easy to make, you just have to make the bracket adjustable so the belt tension is adjustable with the V belt setup, will probably need a shorter belt too. I plan to do this on my car. Cleans up the top of the engine some more also, I really like this modification. |
but this is only possible when ps and other birdsnest is removed?
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yeah, obviously the **** has to be gone before you can let the alternator take over the area https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png
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it probably cost more $$ and time to do it that way.....just use a dual alt pulley
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well duh, but it probably costs more time and money to make a NA rx-7 go fast than it does a t2....
it was just a suggestion, I like the idea, lowers CG, reduces rotating mass (single belt pulleys and single belt), puts weight back on the drivers side of the motor where it's been removed if you ditched the AC/PS hopefully getting back some balance previously had.... and probably keeps the alternator cooler since the heat won't be coming up off the motor soaking the alternator. sounds good ot me. |
nevermind about which way it goes on, I figured it out (duh, the bolt can't tighten on a tapered surface)
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Ok, I took the alt and pulley to pep boys. They took the stock off, and on of the guys thought it broke in half. That's when I started questioning their intelligence. So they put the new one on. It spins fine about 180 degrees, but the other half of the revolution is stiff. One guy says I need a spacer a hair longer (the one behind the pulley). He says he doesn't have one. So, being the paranoid-of-people-behind-counters guy that I am, I then took it to Advance Discount Auto Parts. The same thing happened, spins halfway, then stiff the other half. It looks like the pulley is rubbing ever-so-slightly against the alt housing. This guy tells me I'd need a longer shaft, because if I put a bigger spacer on, the nut wouldn't have enough space on the shaft (with stock, the nut is pretty much flush at the shaft).
What's the deal? Is the pulley a little off, or is my alt housing a little off? Or, considering they used an impact gun, should I just tighten it down by hand? |
Sounds like you may have a reman Alt. that is slightly "off". put some prussian blue on the back side of the pulley to see where it is rubbing. You can also use "shim stock" to move it out ever so slightly.
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tell me more about this "shim stock"
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and I'm guessing I should use an impact gun to put it back on, right? or can I just use my near-man-like strength?
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You can put in on by hand if you have a "Strap wrench" to keep the pulley from turning.
Shim Stock: Shim is VERY thin metal of a known thickness to adjust stack heights of machined assemblies. I am ordering some stuff from ENCO, If you can wait a few days I will cut you out a couple shims and send them to you. John |
would there be a problem if I could use the aluminum grinding bit with the dremel and take a bit off the alternator housing where it's rubbing?
and luckily, I do have a strap wrench, for the bike oil filter https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png |
No, you can gring the alt housing down
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Apr 3 2003, 03:27 PM
No, you can gring the alt housing down
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There is no problem doing a slight clearance grind on the alt housing
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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' date='Apr 3 2003, 03:45 PM
There is no problem doing a slight clearance grind on the alt housing
and you'll have to excuse me, sometimes I get a little stupid....I failed to read your answer as a direct answer to my question ("would there be a problem...?" "no...") |
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