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tried to start my TII last night after sitting in the garage and now I have no spark from either coil and it seems like the fuel pump is not working as well... anyone have any ideas?...
at the current moment the oil psi switch on the oil pan is not connected because the wire broke off.. I am going today to get another switch and try it again... Let me know if you need any other information about what i did... ( turbo gaskets, oil pan gasket, removed power steering, dual alt. pulley and thats about it..) |
sounds like you knocked a ground off some place, is the ground that bolts up the the starter threw bolt connected?
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Fuse maybe?
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already checked fuses... will check the starter ground bolt shortly... thanks for the help... keep them coming...
PS... it cranks but no start... |
Did you verifiy B+ at the EGI fuse? CAS unplugged?
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ENG. COMP. fuse was blown under the hood... didn't look close enough i guess... i have another prob. though... I installed a boost gauge (boost only) at the hard pipe in between the IC and turbo... and I got it running... let it warm up and gave it a little rev (larger rev) and it over boosted to 18 psi... i then let it idle for 45-60 extra seconds and shut it down... and started it back up without the boost controller hooked up to see if the wastegate was working or not... and it would not start.... ? will over boosting while NOT under load blow a rotary?
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you boosted to 18psi neutral revving it?
thats impossible. somethings wrong somewhere, seriously you can maybe make a few psi when not in gear, but making 18 psi is seriously impossible. kevin. |
Originally Posted by teknics' post='874188' date='Jun 5 2007, 02:22 PM
you boosted to 18psi neutral revving it? thats impossible. somethings wrong somewhere, seriously you can maybe make a few psi when not in gear, but making 18 psi is seriously impossible. kevin. would the possition of the tap for my boost gauge (boost only) have something to do with why it is actually showing a boost pressure it is taped at the alluminum hardpipe in between the top mount and the turbo... PS: it started right back up the next night... |
I agree with kevin, 18 psi just revving will not make 18 psi.
Your vac line should be tapped somewhere after the throttle body, not before which sounds like what you have done. If your blow off valve is pulling from a large enough of a source, you can tap the gauge line in to this. |
Originally Posted by roadkill' post='874233' date='Jun 6 2007, 05:36 AM
I agree with kevin, 18 psi just revving will not make 18 psi. Your vac line should be tapped somewhere after the throttle body, not before which sounds like what you have done. If your blow off valve is pulling from a large enough of a source, you can tap the gauge line in to this. Well I took the boost controller off (it was turned completely off anyway) and ran a line like factory and the highest I ever saw was 12... also found out that the pos BOV that is on it is a vaccum leak by placing my hand over the (turbo xs RFL) valve and listening to the motor smooth out... Seriously thanks for all your help.... the reason I tapped before the throttle body is because I had a boost only gauge... I also am picking up a vaccum only gauge that will be placed behind the throttle body... |
12 psi on factory settings? was that driving around or free-reving? what other mods do you have?
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Originally Posted by MazdaEnthused' post='874332' date='Jun 7 2007, 09:12 AM
Well I took the boost controller off (it was turned completely off anyway) and ran a line like factory and the highest I ever saw was 12... also found out that the pos BOV that is on it is a vaccum leak by placing my hand over the (turbo xs RFL) valve and listening to the motor smooth out... Seriously thanks for all your help.... the reason I tapped before the throttle body is because I had a boost only gauge... I also am picking up a vaccum only gauge that will be placed behind the throttle body... The TurboXS RFL is common for that, but its a simple fix. take apart the BOV and remove the large cylinder, coat it in a light coat of wheel bearing grease, put it back in, walah all done. unless its a knock off one, those ar common to leak because of improper tolerances. kevin. |
Originally Posted by teknics' post='874370' date='Jun 7 2007, 12:05 PM
The TurboXS RFL is common for that, but its a simple fix. take apart the BOV and remove the large cylinder, coat it in a light coat of wheel bearing grease, put it back in, walah all done. unless its a knock off one, those ar common to leak because of improper tolerances. kevin. dude.... sweet... I will do that ... it seemed to stop leaking after it warmed up... it prob. expanded and such So i drove it today.... still idles High and has vacuum leaks all over the place prob. needs some more R&R but... yea.... getting there... slowly but surely.... Need a radiator shroud cause who ever thought that the engine fan would pull air across the radiator without a shroud was an idiot. and needs MORE FUEEL!!! |
the problem with the RFL is that the cylinder and the piston are two different metals, so one contracts/grows more then the other, since its made with such tiny clearances that messes it up and the piston tends to stick minorly, but enough to notice it.
had the same problem on my t2, the wheel grease thing was a wonderful discovery https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif kevin. |
i will post some pictures of it up in a little bit...
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http://photos-918.ll.facebook.com/ph..._70436_800.jpg
http://photos-918.ll.facebook.com/ph...70441_2226.jpg This is what the malested tail lights look like in the dark http://photos-918.ll.facebook.com/ph...70445_2795.jpg http://photos-918.ll.facebook.com/ph...70450_3371.jpg http://photos-918.ll.facebook.com/ph...70437_1083.jpg |
and video as soon as i host it somewhere...
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waiting for it to process....
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