NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

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-   2nd Generation Specific (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/)
-   -   DAMN IT! (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/damn-63812/)

sen2two 01-25-2007 02:28 PM

I need a some ideas! and fast!!! im changing my alternator pulley and drive pulley. and the damn drive pulley nut (19mm) will not come out for ****!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif 4 different guns! leaving the breaker bar on and starting the car. and i cant do it by hand cause the motor turns even when its in gear https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif how do i keep the motor from turning so i can break this damn nut free!?!?!?!?!?!??!?!

sen2two 01-25-2007 02:34 PM

oh....i even started the car while pulling with a damn 7 foot breaker bar (extra SCCA style exhaust i have)....and i just turned the motor backwards!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mazdaspeed7 01-25-2007 02:35 PM

Heat the bolt with a torch. It comes loc-tited from the factory, you need to break that by heating the bolt, then it should come off.

teknics 01-25-2007 03:05 PM

what classifies as the "drive pulley"? the crank pulley?



kevin.

1988RedT2 01-25-2007 03:50 PM

I actually got my crank/e-shaft pulley bolt off with my cheesy little impact wrench (275 lb-ft) but that was after a pretty good soaking with penetrating oil over a period of a day or two. I wasn't in a hurry and didn't really expect it to cooperate.

sen2two 01-25-2007 03:59 PM

well my gun is ultra cheesy! 150 foot lbs.



im gonna try the torch idea...



and yes the drive pulley is the crank pulley

Leetheslacker 01-25-2007 08:32 PM

breaker bar laying on the drivers side frame rail, bump the starter once for a split second, boom comes right off.



be aware that you need to have the clutch pushed in at all times while and after removing the bolt to avoid the torrignton deal bearing from ******* **** up.

sen2two 01-25-2007 09:17 PM


Originally Posted by Leetheslacker' post='854944' date='Jan 25 2007, 07:32 PM

breaker bar laying on the drivers side frame rail, bump the starter once for a split second, boom comes right off.



be aware that you need to have the clutch pushed in at all times while and after removing the bolt to avoid the torrignton deal bearing from ******* **** up.



did that....nothing! its reallllllyy on there. i even put on exhaust, yes my exhaust (about 8 foot of cheater bar) and pulled when my brother turned the key........it just turned the motor the opposite direction. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif





and yeah....as soon as i get it loose. if i ever do, i usually put a pipe between the seet and cluth pedal.

hillbilly 01-26-2007 02:02 AM

sounds to me like your only option (besides the propane torch, which is a great idea) is to drop the tranny and pin/chain the flywheel.



sorry man, wish I had better news for ya. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

j9fd3s 01-26-2007 09:28 AM

yeah the last engine i took apart, it took a chain wrench on the pulley with a jack handle on it, and a 1" breaker bar with a jack handle on it, so with me (155lbs) bouncing up and down on that, it came loose


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