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so i put a NEW master cylinder, braided lines and rebuilt 4 piston calipers into my 91 fc, trying to fix a mushy brake pedal. we've bled the snot out of it, and the pedal feel is now worse!
WTF? my t2 was the same way. the 1st gens always feel good, i dont get it |
Maybe a weak booster?
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if anything its too strong, i dont know what else there could be though?
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did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Check the bleeders for stripping where they install into the calipers. I had that problem once, and I needed to get a new caliper because the bleeder stripped.
Also, when you bled the system, did you press the pedal slowly or quickly? quick pedal pressing will give you more, but smaller, air bubbles, which would give you a mushy pedal. |
Originally Posted by lxk199' post='816629' date='Apr 29 2006, 02:06 PM
did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Check the bleeders for stripping where they install into the calipers. I had that problem once, and I needed to get a new caliper because the bleeder stripped. Also, when you bled the system, did you press the pedal slowly or quickly? quick pedal pressing will give you more, but smaller, air bubbles, which would give you a mushy pedal. we pedal bled it twice, with different people, and then we pressure bled it. dont think its a stripped bleeder, its not leaking fluid |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='816637' date='Apr 29 2006, 02:33 PM
we pedal bled it twice, with different people, and then we pressure bled it. dont think its a stripped bleeder, its not leaking fluid I'd look to the master cylinder. If it wasn't bench bled before installing, it could be your culprit. Any air in the master cylinder is a bad thing, and it's very highly reccomended to bench bleed it before installing specifically to prevent the spongy pedal feel. Even pedal bleeding/pressure bleeding with everything installed can take many cycles to get everything to where it should be if the MC wasn't pre-bled. You would know it if you bench bled it. From SuperChevy.com: Many times the correct bench bleeding of the master cylinder is an overlooked task. However, this is a MUST and should be performed any time a new master cylinder is installed. If the master cylinder is not bled, it will take you at least twice as long to bleed the system, and then there's no guarantee that you'll have removed all the air from the system. That being said, if it was bench-bled, I'll have to think harder! |
would a missing/failed check valve at the booster cause this?
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how is the pedal with the engine not running? if it is spongy without vacuum assist then there is a hydraulic problem. and he is right you should ALWAYS bench bleed master cylinders before installation
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Bench bleed it. If you can't bench bleed it. Then take two old hard lines. Cut them and keep the flare and the nut. Put a plastic hose at the end of the cut hardpipe and zip tie them on. Fish the lines back into the reservoir and pump away. I did that when I installed my new master.
I just installed the FD calipers I bought off of you a long time back. New seals, new pistons, new boots, new mazda 929 master. new rebuilt rear calipers. SS lines. THe pedal is rock solid. |
If all else is good the only thing I can think of is that you bleed it to fast. If you go pumping the **** out of it you will never get all the air out of the lines. Nice and slow pumping does the trick the best.
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