Well, after reading some topics about cone intakes i've come to realize that done incorrectly, they can be counter productive to performance by allowing more hot air from the engine bay into your system. Conversely, the stock intake set up is quite constrictive.



So, I'm here to ask the experienced which they think is better. A performance (such as K&N) drop in filter, or a cone/dome/funny shaped air filter? And if a cone filter is that much better, where is a good place to put it on an NA FC where it won't A) be affected by engine heat and B) be affected by the rain/snow/whatever



Thanks in advance.

Uhh.. theres no real difference with the shape of the filter, its the placement of the filter.

Me with my little knowledge (EXTENDED) It does flow more air but it is hotter. So if there any gain it is minimal. The best way would you get the cone filter but you fabricate a kind of a box to isolate it from the rest of the bay. I am using plexi glass with a thin layer of insulation sandwiched between another peice of plexiglass.



Still working on it though trying to make it look nice so it dont look ghetto rigged.

I just got a cone filter today.. I got that cuz it costed less that the stock one, now I just have to re-oil every once in a while..

i'm going CAI in front of the radiator. i just bought a keyhole hacksaw to cut a hole for 3" of piping, then i'll get some pvc and rubber couplers, and my CAI with TID mod is going to be tight! by the end of this summer, i'll be running nice and cool...

I've said it before, I don't think the K&N filters offer ANY noticable hp, the only reason I run them in all of my rigs is I don't have to replace the filter. IF you are expecting or looking for a big HP gain from an airfilter you are waisting your time.

Yup. thats why I bought mine..

Of course an air filter is not a great place to get big HP gains cause if you get any it is very little. If anything it is more a apperance and cleanup upgrade than any thing LOL.

If it is properly done you could gain a little but dont expect 10hp or any think like that!

I wish I had some dyno comparisons.. the open hot air cone filter did nothing but make noise compared to stock but the cold air intake made a noticeable difference for me without question. Maybe I'll swap parts if I ever get to a dyno to tune the safc.

I was thinkin of getting a spare headlight cover at the junkyard, and making a hole behind the passengers headlight, so I could duct air into the filter, then just make a kevlar or fiberglass cover to isolate the fresh air from the engine air.. But all that work would only piss me off and not make my car any faster so **** it.. Maybe if I turbo the car... hmmm..

screw that box crap, that's a waste of time, energy, and looks like a lot of frustration. i'm going with FCManiac's idea: move the air filter to a cooler location.



and if you want cool air in the headlight area, just remove that crappy plastic peice. just two 8 mm nuts, real easy.

I'm not expecting any magic transformation in the response or the overall speed of my car by replacing the filter. I just want my car to breathe a little better, but I want to do it right. My friend put his in front of his wheel well in his civic. The air flow there is quite nice, you can put your hand on his TB after a long hard drive... its barely warm. I don't know if this will work on an FC because i'm not too familiar with the aerodynamics of it... but anyone know of a good place like this? It doesn't rain here (pretty much ever) so water is not really an issue.

FCManiac's idea has to be one of the best, if you're not concerned about water.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...showtopic=20367



i'm going in front of the radiator and moving the coolant reservoir, and cutting a hole next to the radiator where the coolant reservoir line used to run.

The shape of a filter does matter to intake efficancy. Or I should say that the base of the filter does. Look for a filter that has a beveled opening into the intake track. A pipe that is rolled out and back on it's self with a smooth roll is best. A fluted pipe is not as good, but it's better then a straight cut. Along with a smooth flow through the filter, you want the same for all your intake plumbing. Pipes, couplers, etc. Hence the reason PVC is so bad. Fork out the $10 extra and get a mandrel bent pipe from ebay. Not only is metal more resiliant to wear, heat, and pressure, but a $30 intake is about the same you would spend on all the crap involved with making a PVC intake.



The link that is posted is a GREAT setup. Like I said in another thread, unless you are fording creeks, or other wise submerging your car up to the floorboards there is NO worry about hydrolock. Ice-man runs their filters as close, and in some cases closer to the pavement then this. Not to mention the brake cooling duct is between the ground and the filter, an added piece of insurance. I ran the filter in my Neon 9" from the pavement through 3 years in Seattle weather. No hydrolock, no issues, and my filter was open to the ground from the bottom. As long as you keep your inner fenders, which block the spray of the tires off the filter. I would be more scared of sucking in water running my filter in front of my radiator. Not only does it disrupt flow through the radiator, and engine bay, but it is also the first point where water hits the car when in traffic on the freeway. Don't forget about washing the car.



I guess if you are not trying to squeeze every ounce of power out of the car then going the budget route is GREAT. As I have told many of my friends, and customers alike, "you waste more money jerry-rigging things and 'making it work' then you would spend doing it right the first time."



As the sign on the wall in my old shop said..

Pick two;

you can have it done cheap

you can have it done quickly

you can have it done right

What happens when you're driving at night and your pop-up lights are up.. how is the pop-up air inlet thing going to help then? I've just always wondered about that..

I took my air duct for my passenger side brake out and cut a 3" hole in the wall behind the headlight and made sure that the light would close (tight fit) and put my filter where the brake air duct. it stays cold all the time that way but its a pain in the ass to get to the filter (have to jack up the car and get under it) but it works. for plumbing from the TB to the filter, i used 2 3" turn down exhaust pipes and 3" straight pipe and cut the tips off the turn down pipes. the whole thing cost me about 25 dollars and it works great.

I'd rather stick a duct breathing into the isolated airbox, coming in from the brake duct than actually sticking the filter down there.. Cuz I am an idiot and will probably drive the car into a huge puddle and suck water into it.. Plus... I have a nifty Idea... Mwuhahahaha..