well after almost 5 months of no running i finally got a new motor in her plus mods and after screwing with the fuel system some we got her started and to idle. I'm thinking woo hoo after i shut her off checked everything in the engine bay and was about to take her for a test drive put her in gear and went to start it and the car lurched foward. Well the slave unit wasn't completely bled, so i did that tried again same thing. Now i was looking the the throwout bearing fork and noticed there is play both foward and back and side to side is that ok? and what else could it be I have a SR Motorsports 9.5lb Flywheel with a ACT 6 puck plus a Stainless steal line. Any suggestions would be helpful.

If the clutch pedal was not in the normal (fully out) position and the hydralic system was allowed to sit undisturbed, the components of the system have probably corroded. Both the bore on the clutch slave, and clutch master cylinder need to stay sealed from air when disassembeled because brake fluid is not a sufficient lubricant to store parts and corrosion of the bore will happen easily. They can be rebuilt but it is usually cheaper to just buy the rebuilt ones.



The pivot and the spring may be wore out allowing slop in the fork, cheaply replaced. The pivot point should be well greased at every clutch/bearing replacement as a minimum.

i was thinking it's either the slave unit or the fork, either way the car will have to sit a week until i get time off of work to get her going. thanks for the response.

i had the same problem, you push the clutch in , put the car in gear, and as soon as you try to start her, she tries to sneak forward, in my case, it was the mastercylinder, the little piston was leaking, or whatever, the replacement is like 50 bux and takes about 20 minutes to put in, notice, it didn't leak, but my clutchpedal sometimes didn't come back up, so if you have the same problem, it's only like 2 bolts Oo



later,, snoxxy