Last time I drove my car, over the course of like 3 shifts the clutch stopped working. I looked under the hood, and it looked like the line had a hole in it where it met the slave cylinder. So I ordered the SS braided line, and just installed it. When I removed the old line, it looked like the outer covering had a hole, but I wasn't sure if the inner "tube" did, but there looked like gunkiness where fluid leaked out, so I still figured that was the original problem.
Bled the slave cylinder. Can't find any leaks anywhere. The old clutch fluid is severely nasty, my assistant didn't have time for me to drain the whole thing, so I got the air out. I can see the fork over the tranny moving when the clutch is pressed, but when I started it in gear it lurched. So what's up? Do I need to start shopping for a new clutch, or did I not bleed the system properly? If I replaced the line, does the master need to be bled also? |
I would think if you didn't bleed all the old fluid out you might still have air in there.
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i recently replaced my clutch hydraulics on my daily ride and my main problem was the secondary seal on the master cylinder. fluid was leaking into my footwell and i didn't even notice until i tore the junk out. and yes please completely flush the system and put new fluid in.
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Pull the bleeder right out, take the cap off the reseviour, make sure when you take the bleeder out that you don't loose the little ball (checkvalve) in the slave. And let it gravity bleed, thats all I did and my clutch is awesome no 2 people required. But it's possable that because the slave ran dry, I am assuming here, that you wore the o-rings out and it requires a rebuild.
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yeah you can bleed these with one person, sometimes even just pumping the pedal is enough
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I bought a turkey baster, just to remove as much as the old fluid as possible. I put in more new fluid, and left the bleeder valve open, and pumped a lot, refilled, pumped some more (didn't get low enough to let air in). For some reason it still isn't disengaging, I don't know what to do. ...bleed some more and hope there's some air in there that didn't get out before? Is there some adjustment I should do to the pedal?
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Do you keep the bleeder open when you let go of the pedal?
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' post='776938' date='Nov 9 2005, 02:22 PM
Do you keep the bleeder open when you let go of the pedal? |
Maybe the fork popped off the pivot ball.
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maybe it was not the hose, for the price of the rest of the system replace it, slave and master, hose- all less then $200, the car is old so its a good idea to just replace it all now, unless your going to be getting rid of the car.
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I guess I'll do one that at a time, do the slave then the master.
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Ok, I just got done with the master cylinder. I had already done the slave cylinder, pressed the pedal in, cranked the starter in gear, car lurched. So I finished installing and bleeding the master tonight. Put the car in gear, push clutch in, crank starter, and the car still lurched.
What am I doing wrong? I'm pretty sure that if the clutch itself wore out, it would be gradual, right? This was sudden, like one shift was fine, then stopped working. So I'm still hoping it's not the clutch itself, or anyting that's expensive and involves removing the tranny. |
Get under the dash, and start adjusting the rod.
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Sounds to me like the fork fell of the throwout bearing. If you can see the slave cylinder pushing the rod out then that part of the system is probably working right.
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can you see the piston on the slave pivot the clutch fork? if so the problem lies within the bellhousing.
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Originally Posted by BigTurbo74' post='780235' date='Nov 21 2005, 03:06 AM
can you see the piston on the slave pivot the clutch fork? if so the problem lies within the bellhousing. |
Took the slack out of the pedal, and it acted weird. I would start it in first, it would lurch. Then I'd try again, it would start and idle in first, but if I tried shifting into neutral then any other gear, it would grind. I guess I have to remove the tranny no matter what at this point. Any idea what I should be looking for when I do this?
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I removed the transmission. I think I found my problem. The bearing in the bellhousing that the fork pushes (is that the throw out bearing?), it has 2 tabs on it that look like they should hook around the ends of the fork. One tab is gone, broken off. I'd post pics but my cam went dead.
When I lowered the tranny, oil started coming out of the end where the driveshaft came out of. Is this ok? (assuming I put oil back in it) I wasn't sure if there was supposed to be some kind of seal or something there. |
Yes, that is the TOB, and it's completely fine for the oil to come out the back of the tranny, it seals when the driveshaft is installed.
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Awesome. Isn't it nice to know what's wrong? Hopefully the dealership is open tomorrow (since I have the day off), and hopefully they have the TOB in stock. I guess the hard part will be getting the tranny back up there by myself.
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