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-   -   Charging System (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/charging-system-37231/)

cezonetheillest 04-14-2004 12:53 AM

well my problem is that i am on my 4th alternator and my 4th battery. i can not figure this out. i know that the belt is tight enough and i had also ran a 12ga from the pos(+) on the battery to the b+ post on the alternator and it only worked for like 4 days. so i have started to look more into the engine bay wiring and noticed that some wires have like old oil on them but i didn't know if it would affect anything. also i ran a new engine ground but that doesn't seem to help.





also i noticed that there was like a orange/white with a connector that was severed that was just black so i figured it was just a ground so when i grounded it, it made my stock oil pressure gauge go all of the way up(i have a mechanical installed). i am completely lost and don't know what to do. please help.

GMON 04-14-2004 01:01 AM

Sounds like you may have a short somewhere. You can use a testlight at the fusebox to test for this. If you find something you can narrow it down to that circut and check the fsm to track down where it might be.



Gregory

cezonetheillest 04-14-2004 01:05 AM

actually i did do the test light at the fues box and i got the light with the car off and the door closed on





illum

antenna

room

hazard

stop



all of those were with the car off and the door closed and also none of the other ones came on. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

cezonetheillest 04-14-2004 01:50 AM

bump

sleeper7 04-14-2004 02:47 AM

Try this. Remove your negative battery cable. Attach one end of a test light to the cable. Attach the other end of the test light to the negative battery post. Now any power that is being used will go through the test light. Now go to the fuse panel and start pulling fusses until the test light no longer lights bright. If only the clock and radio memory is pulling power the test light will be very low. Sometimes you can see the test light flash from the operation of the clock. This will give you a good starting point.

Hope this helps.

chuck

cezonetheillest 04-14-2004 09:57 AM

checked the car this mourning when i started it up and the battery with the car on was running about 12.67v. so i don't know if it is the alternator. wouldn't think so just cause i just put that one in like 4 days ago. i have done that and it didn't glow bright at all.

ColinRX7 04-14-2004 10:05 AM

12g wire from battery + to alternator output post is a really small wire. You should use at least an 8g.



I hope your engine ground wires are thicker. I use 2g or 4g for main grounds.

TYSON 04-14-2004 10:07 AM

My starter was screwed and caused this.



Started draws incredible amperage to start car, damaging battery. Alternator attempts to charge damaged battery, damaging alternator.



Eventually took starter to rewind shop, where it drew 300 amps simply clamped in a vise. I can't imagine how much current it drew while cranking the engine, but I know it would heat a pair of heavy duty booster cables to the point they would be too hot to touch.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

cezonetheillest 04-14-2004 10:26 AM

so pretty much since i am on my 4 alternator and my 4th battery i should start to look at the starter to see if that is what is causeing my battery to die? well how do i check the starter?

TYSON 04-14-2004 10:32 AM


Originally Posted by cezonetheillest' date='Apr 14 2004, 11:26 AM
so pretty much since i am on my 4 alternator and my 4th battery i should start to look at the starter to see if that is what is causeing my battery to die? well how do i check the starter?

It's what happened to me, and it sounds similar. I'm not saying it's what your problem is.



I took my starter off and had it tested at the rewind shop. Only took a few minutes to take mine off.


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