ok last night i just bought a clutch and pressure plate from this guy in NV off of ebay. i personally think it was a pretty good deal. i believe i got them both for 70 or 67. they seem to be in good condition. i'll post pics. considering that mine was slipping alot. anyway, is it true that u should replace the throw out bearing everytime u change the clutch or is there a way to check if the one u have is fine to reuse? how long should this take on average? is there any oil or lubricant that i need to put in while i change it? do i have to replace the clutch master or slave cylinders??
thanx for advice. im gonna look in my hanes manual to get an idea of whats ahead. |
.dfg
|
1 Attachment(s)
asd
|
dfg
|
1 Attachment(s)
dfg
|
You don't need to mess with hydraulics.
The master cylinder is for your foot, the slave cylinder is just a piston that pushes a dry fork that leads to the inside of the transmission You can go outside and unbolt your slave cylinder and hang it on the firewall, and that's all you have to worry about when it comes to hydraulics. You won't even need to bleed lines or add fluid. |
That looks like a stock clutch setup.. Yes?
|
he says that it was an aftermarket clutch pulled from a 90 gtu....he also says that it can be used on all n/a 7's from 83-91. i though 83-88 clutches were different from 89-91. or is that only some manufacturers specs.
|
he says its aftermarket. i'll check it for a brand when i get it in. all his feedback is "A+A+...." whatever whatever. so i guess he doesnt give false info.
|
clutchnet???? dont clutchnet clutches look somewhat stock?
|
bumpity bump bump
|
Actually, a lot of performance aftermarket clutches or at least the pressure plates look stock. They usually take an OEM pp and modify it to apply more pressure.
If he is saying "aftermarket", that doesn't necessarily mean its a performance clutch. |
heres a quote from the discription......... not aftermarket....high performance
"You're bidding on a high performance aftermarket clutch and pressure plate from an 90 GTU. As you can see in the pics they are in great shape. This set-up will work on any 83-91 N/A Rx-7." |
How do you know it's high performance though? You are just taking his word for it..
Either way it looks to be in good shape.. I just hope it actually is high performance. Changing a clutch is pretty easy as far as I'm concerned, but the only clutch change I have done was when I pulled the motor and tranny right out of the car... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png |
well right now i wouldnt really care if it was high performance or oem. mine was really bad. it was slipping alot. 71 dollars isnt bad even for an oem setup. but do u think it'll fit considering mine is an 88 and that is from a 90? in that description he says it will.
|
I'm pretty sure all the 84-91 NA 13B's take the same size PP and disc.
|
You should all ways replace the Throw Out bearing, and greese it. Check the pilot bearing in the back of the shaft and replace the seal ( You have to remove the seal to get to the bearing) if all of the little needle bearings are in place add more greese and put it back to gether. It is all ways best for optium life to machine the flywheel and check the rear main seal at the same time.
If you are trying to cut corners press on teh bearing and see if it feels notchy ( can not think of a better word to describe it, but a profession mechanic could tell you by its feel) https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png |
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' date='Mar 30 2004, 06:11 PM
You won't even need to bleed lines or add fluid.
I would drain some of the fluid out of the tranny. It just makes life easier. And get some help, because trannys are heavy. Unless you have a car lift, and air tools. Have fun. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:13 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands