Leaky injectors?

yeah... that was my thought too... so i'm installing a fuel cut switch to cut the fuel pump off seperately... maybe that will work.



there are no environmentals so the orange solenoid trick won't work.



i'm tryin the injector thing tomarrow.

[quote name='DJ Blu' date='Jun 11 2005, 07:37 PM']alright, so the saga of my T2 continues. It starts really strongly, it is timed correct, and runs smoothly, but it won't start when it is hot. If i cold start it, and warm it up, it won't restart again till it cools. If i turn it off before it heats up, it can start again immediately. I've never heard of this and was hoping someone here had.



any ideas... compression is good, so it's not that, and i taped up the tid good enough that the car, when hot will idle @ about 700, so i don't think it's vacume.


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Check the water temp sensor behind the water pump, and make sure the cable that runs to the ECU is in good conditions.

[quote name='knonfs' date='Jun 16 2005, 08:39 AM']Check the water temp sensor behind the water pump, and make sure the cable that runs to the ECU is in good conditions.


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You would get a CEL for that

could the thermowax be fucked up?

[quote name='mazdaspeed7' date='Jun 14 2005, 12:00 PM']Try unplugging the PRC solenoid on the vacuum rack. I believe its the orange one. What it does it cut off the vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator on hot starts, raising the fuel pressure slightly.


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Most probably, the CEL was always on since I removed all of the emissions components. On any case, I had the same exact problem, and it turned out to be the sensor.

Well, its either getting too much gas or it doesn't have enough compression. Umm, try doing a compression test when the engine is hot. See what you get.

i put the fuel cut switch in, and it solved the problem. Now i just gotta find the small vacum leak that is making it idle high (most likely the TID)



thanks for all the help.