the motor wouldn't start one day after work but it does crank, i eventually got it to start and got home. i checked all the injector gaskets and redid the upper manifold gasket. i also replaced the fuel filter and checked the pump and the ignition coils. i also checked the resistance on the BAC and the crank angel sensor they all tested good. the motor does crank and with the help of some starter fluid it does start but it doesn't hold an idle. anyone got any ideas.

have you checked to see how good your starter is it might need to have the solenoids replaced since it kinda sounds like its hard to start does your

ya i checked the starter already, when the car does start it usually revs up to 1.5 or 3 rpm then dies a second after hitting that point

you say you checked the injector gaskets but did you actually check the injectors themselves?

Did your MAF/AFM/whatever come unplugged?

no its plugged in, i just checked the fuel relay and replaced the EGI relay with a spare that i had but i can't test it till the next day since it is raining here and the battery is low

oh ya and the injectors are new they are about two months old, i just wanted to check to see if the gaskets were sitting right

Have you checked the ignition wires and spark plugs?

yes i replaced the spark plugs didnt do the wires. i dont think that is the problem since the motor can hit 3k. what i do notice is that the motor doesnt fight to keep itself running even when i apply the throttle. i am thinking that it is the TPS sensor but i am not sure if a faulty TPS can cause the car to act this way. yet i do have some OEM size wires that have never been used i will throw them in and see what i get.

I would check the purge valve and idle control valve. You should also make sure that the spark plug wires are connected to correct terminals and plugs. I had a '91 automatic that the shop had connected the plug wires wrong and the car still ran.

Adjusting the tps on a 2nd generation car is relatively easy. I bought the "tool" from the dealer for $18.00. It consists of two lights on a fitting that connects to one of the small green connectors near the air box. If you look at the shop manual which you can find online, it gives instructions to test it. I doubt that is the problem.

try starting the car with out one of the fuel selenoids (u have one undetr the steering colum and another in the fuse box i had a 90 that had the same problem if it still show that i dies change ur MAF keep us updated after u check these two things

sounds like a vac leak due to idle jumping so high when it does start and then dying...unless the thermowax is there of course.



boils down to fuel, spark, or air. just keep it simple and go down the list.



kevin.