OK guys...



I'm having some kind of ungodly, uber electrical problem with my car here. Either that, or I'm an idiot... Read on.



Basically..



If my car sits for too long a period of time, it will crank so weak that it won't turn over, ESPECIALLY on cold starts. At which time, I will have to do a thorough jump start, or charge up the battery with a charger. I have noticed however, it helps to hold the throttle all the way down to let in some air...so my thoughts are, cold start problems are relating to flooding... But again, it still cranks so damn weak, I can't even start it, even if it's only been sitting like....4, maybe 6 hours.



Now..



I don't THINK the problem is the battery, because I have left the terminals unplugged, basically taken the battery OUT of the car, and just 4-6+ hours later, it again is too weak to crank and turnover. However, the battery held a charge of 12.3, while unplugged, a good 24 hours later....



Second, I've had the alternator tested at 2 places. First, NAPA idiot guy says "Well, it's pushing 14, so it's good. Oh wait, it's pushing the "correct" amount of volts, but not amps..and the SCREEN says "Bad Alternator", so I guess it's bad!" So I am like "wtf..." and I brought it an Autozone...it pushed a solid 14 amps, and when the car is on, it pushes the 14 amps, it seems to do a fine job of recharging the battery, according to a voltmeter, so I don't THINK the alternator is the problem.



I just bought a new starter....and basically...it did nothing...In fact, lets say I go drive the car. Now, EVERY time I crank it up, even if it WILL turnover, the strength of the crank is VERY weak. If the car sits, lets say everything is hooked up as usual, or even not...when I crank it, it will crank slower and slower each time...this didn't even happen with the old starter. -_-



I called the local rotary shop (Mazcare) and he said to disconnect ANY and ALL aftermarket electrical stuff...stereo...alarm... OK, I did....nothing



So my question is.....



WTF IS WRONG WITH MY CAR?!?!??!?!?



It NEVER did this before! I'll tell you one thing though, if I hook the battery up to a battery charger and let it get a FULL charge...the car will crank up IMMEDIATELY, even cold! W-T-F mate!

After reading some other 2nd gen-related posts...



My brother thinks it's fuel-related... and that's why it will crank harder if I hold the throttle down.



Is it possible my fuel filter has become so clogged that it won't crank for me easily unless it's got the throttle wide open? Honestly, I can't remember having replaced it...ever....so...Food for thought?



My fuel pressure gauge has been showing 46psi for some time, even when there were NO problems...so I dunno. If I remember correctly however, when I FIRST got the car running, it was running at only like 32psi. Could a clogged fuel filter be the result of running so rich? Kinda sounds hyprotical..but maybe this bit of info will help you guys help ME determine what's wrong!

It's got to be a wiring/charging system issue or a bad battery. Take your battery to a store that will test it. They will check the voltage drop under load. If the battery is like 3 or 4 or 5 years old and/or hasn't been used regularly, that would be my first guess. Borrow a battery from another car and see if it fixes the problem. ( This works better if the other car also belongs to you. )

it does sound like you have a bad cell or two in your battery, you may need to replace it

Hmm..



I bought the battery soon after I got the car, like..the next day, because the battery that was in the car wasn't holding a charge. The car was fine for months and months, and then all of a sudden it started doing this, but yeah, that's probably going to be the cheapest solution to the problem. Thanks guys.



But I'm definitely open to any other ideas.

well the alts on these cars are crap, try a new, newer one or and fd one, with a new battery, i'm having thins prob with my winter beater because i share batteries, the rx7 killed my battery so i think an optima is in my near future!

Charging system isn't functioning properly. Replace the battery cables, battery, and alternator.

Allrighty. Found out that NeverStart battery of mine wasn't pushing enough cranking amperage...



F*cking Wal-Mart POS...



Anyways...



It cranks alot harder now..



But getting it to actually turn over was a bitch, cold start...in like...40 degree weather...probably doesn't help..



One thing that's happening now that's irritating as hell is that when I turn the key, it won't always crank...



wtf?

how many CCA is your battery?

Ignition switch may be going out?



My ignition is similar, if I turn the key all the way toward the dash (as to start) it won't do anything. If I turn the key off any try again, exerting less pressure, it starts right up.

the clutch saftey switch seems to add enough resistance that the solenoid doesnt always work

So what should I do?



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



I forget the CCA..



I think it's supposed ot be 525, and that POS Wal-Mart battery was only pushing like 325. lol

I don't know...Try changing the fuse to the "Engine." Also if you have trouble with it not attempting to turn over...push the clutch in twice...What I do and it works just fine.... Also..cold weather kills a battery...mine is kinda **** in cold weather but it starts right up...Get a battery with more cold cranking amps. All I can think of.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

Yup..



Today it wouldn't crank ONCE...



The new battery is like 710 CCA....



I had it hooked up to my mom's car via jumper cables, AND a battery charger....



And it still wouldn't even crank..



I took the key out, flipped it over, I pushed the clutch in and out...I turned the car on and off....I disconnected and re-connected the battery...



I did EVERYTHING..



And now it won't even crank....



I could kill myself...but then there'd be no one left to pay off my debt.



If I fix this problem, then my car is fixed....well, for the most part.



PLEASE help me!!!!!!!!!

So yeah...



It's my clutch switch.



I got it started by like, nailing my foot to the floor on the clutch.



I'm just going to bypass it, so the car will start without the clutch being pressed in...it's less trouble.



-_-



I hope this fixes all my electrical problems...besides my fuel light coming on when I pull the e-brake, instead of the e-brake light. *cough*



lol

Yup.



Bypass: Successful!



THis morning before I did it, it wouldn't crank...



Later when it was warmer...it cranked first try..



If the car cranks the 1st try, COLD, witht he clutch switch being bypassed like it is...then I'm happy!



And with the new battery, pushing the correct CCA...I'm REAL happy!



Only problem I have now is UBER flooding after it's been sitting all night. It just cranks...and cranks...and cranks....



Then it eventually putters....then I keep trying, and it will eventually start if I flutter the gas.



If I splice in a fuel-cut switch, how do I do it? I know that sounds like a RETARD question, and it is, but I haven't ever had to before... I just want to know, cause I plan on doing it.



Do I have the switch turned off until the car actually turns over, or until it just starts puttering? I have a fuel-pressure gauge, and the thing is, I'm scared when I see the fuel-pressure drop so much while i"m cranking it. Wouldn't it be BAD to be cranking the motor with NO fuel in it because I've cut the circuit to the fuel pump?? o_O!?



Can someone just explain how having a switch for the fuel-pump relay would work?