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Trying to complete the drives side suspension and brake upgrade. I can't get the phillips head screws off of the rotor. I have a torque applying screwdriver that usually works perfectly. Not this time. I've soaked them in PB Blaster beat'em with a hammer. Nothing. GGRRRR!!! Any thoughts or suggestions? I don't want to have to drill them out.
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I was able to get the coilover and SS brake line on...
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wd-40??
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Here's the tool I use to remove the screws...
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is that thing electric?
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No, you twist it and then bang the end with a hammer.
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ohh i was gonna say those things dont apply torque
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You can sometimes use a chisel to break them loose
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torch, heat it up then hit it with your screwdriver you've got there. That **** never comes off easily here in the rust belt.
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That tool is called an IMPAK driver. Using a brass drift and smacking it a little, without drforming the head of the screw will work
Another alternative (last resort). Cut off the head of a Cap head screw, and weld the screw head onto the bastid screw, and use a big breakerbar/rachet to get the sumbitch out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png |
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Originally Posted by Apex13B' date='Sep 3 2003, 05:24 PM
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The welding process loosens up the screw, especially when there is penetrating oil used. You wont need torque. I use this technique on Ford header plates all the time. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png
you flash heat the screw to near melting point and then cool it down, the lattice shifts and the screw FLIES right out -nick |
heat and wack the **** out of it
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if the thing has been soaked in pb-blaster / penetrating lube... and you apply the propane torch to it. BECAREFUL! think twice! Hose off the PB-plaster first. or use non flammable liquid wrench.
Don't ask me how I know htis https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png |
poof, OH **** MY CAR
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a little fire never hurt no one
puts hair on your chest, or do I have that backwords? Takes hair OFF your chest, lol |
if you have an air compressor and an impact wrench get a screwdriver and find an impact socket that fits snuggly over the handle.
put screwdriver into socket, put socket on impact gun and all you do is push as hard as possible into the screw then pull the trigger a bit to try to loosen it. did this to frestyle's rotors and it worked wonders. kevin. |
Drilling the head off will be the easiest way. The threaded part comes right out after you drill the head off. That was after I broke a bit using an impact driver like that. It twisted the bit 90 degrees before it finally broke.
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Originally Posted by mazdaspeed7' date='Sep 3 2003, 07:11 PM
Drilling the head off will be the easiest way. The threaded part comes right out after you drill the head off. That was after I broke a bit using an impact driver like that. It twisted the bit 90 degrees before it finally broke.
mike |
Get some left-handed drill bits, 90% of the time the whole fastener backs itself right out while drilling
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Where have you guys found replacement screws?
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Mazda has them and NAPA has them in a blister pack
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i would try just heating them and using the impact driver first.
mine were really hard to get out once but i did the same thing. pb then wiped it off then heat then impact driver. worked wonders. |
Originally Posted by Nemesis' date='Sep 4 2003, 08:51 AM
Where have you guys found replacement screws?
mike |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Sep 4 2003, 11:14 AM
they are only there so the rotors dont fall of on the assembly line
mike |
why dont you ask it?
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I don't know what all the worry is about. That screw's not even necessary. The brake rotor's not going anywhere when it's got four or five torqued lug nuts holding it on. Just drill that sucker out, remove the threaded shaft and don't even worry about finding replacement screws.
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