This is what im starting off with. I decided why wait till I get the motor to start building when i can do everything else with time and patience instead of rushing it once the motor comes through. This is my Build Diary. Also decided to buy a camera to document the build since cell phone pics dont do justice.



The Car 86 Sport RX-7

Attachment 18510

Attachment 18511

Attachment 18512

Attachment 18513

Attachment 18514



Interior

Attachment 18515

Attachment 18516

Attachment 18517



Rust spot not perforated just surface

Attachment 18518



Rust spot on door is a little deeper.

Attachment 18519



Im going to start off bye throwing the cables for the battery and doing all the relays for the ignition, fuel pump, E-fan, and wiring the coils. Basically do all of the electrical work that needs to be done minus the actual engine related stuff like injectors and CAS. Any Ideas or suggestions during the build will be greatly appreciated.



May The Force Be With Me ! ! !

Some Various Parts I already Have.

Greddy FMIC

Attachment 18504



FD Alternator and Centerforce Dual Friction Clucth

Attachment 18505



TII Front Cover, Stainless Steel Oil Lined, Greddy BOV, Greddy Piping,

Attachment 18506



S5 TII Tranny

Attachment 18507



AEM Dry Flow Filter

Attachment 18508



And probably for sale TII Downpipe and presilencer and a S5 TII Turbo

Attachment 18509

What do you guys recommend to coat the floor? There is some areas the factory sound deadening is chipped up and i want to coat it with something to prevent rust that i could just coat the whole floor with.

This is going to sound stupid but try rhino lining. You know the truck stuff that sprays on a truck bed. That can work in conjunction with some dynamat. It will give you the rust prevention you seek and the sound deadening of some of the best stuff that I know of for stereo systems in a car. Its an idea. And besides, don't they guarantee rhino lining for life?

I have used POR 15 great stuff! Use as directed on the can and can't go wrong. You can buy it on line and it's not cheap, here is the deal. Moisture makes the stuff tougher! POR 15

I really like the idea of putting the small fan in the glovebox. I never seen anyone do that, but it makes since with all those electronics in such a small place.

Im pretty creative when it comes to builds you guys will see alot of neat things soon to come.

NEW 1/0 power CABLES

Attachment 18502

Looking sweet, coming along nice. The fan in the glovebox. Definate genius. I agree about the rhino lining, it gives good traction, and it doesn't really chip that much, last ya a good long while. The intercooler is just the sex, I want one. Mazda goodness.

You got a lot of work ahead of you for sure.



Looking forward to following this build.



The best part is getting something in the mail every week



Bring that RX7 back to life!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



hybrid

The bong with the GREDDY cooler was a nice touch... I'll definitely be watching your progress on this. Good luck!

I noticed the bong (water pipe) after i posted the pictures.



Thanks for everyones support i hope i can bring some creative ideas along with this build to share with everyone.



Im going to patent the ECU/Boost controller w/ fan in glove box idea LOL

The wiring begins! ! ! Mounted remote battery posts ran primary wires which i think im going to change location since i dont like the red wire running along the back of the engine bay. And wired in the main fuse box.

Attachment 18493

Attachment 18494

Attachment 18495

Attachment 18496



The Battery temporarily in its spot.

Attachment 18497



And GOD Said Let There Be Light ! ! !

Attachment 18498



So far so good ! ! !

Can anyone offer me any ideas as to a better way to run the main + cable. I was thinking under the chassis but I dont know if that would be to good. Any input would help Thanks.

Whats wrong with running it along the drivers side of the cabin and through the firewall on that side?

It would require a lot less cable and keep it away from the exhaust side of the engine.

Dont know where to drill to get it through i want to run it down the drivers side just cant figure out a spot to open up that wont bother.

i ran my negative cable along the frame rail on the outside of the car and ran the positive inside under the carpet

Where did you drill into the fire wall? give me an orientation for example to the left of the steering column ect...... Did you run poth a positive and a negative? im just running the positive and grounding the battery close to the battery.

Ok some progress I decided to go with 3M's pro bed liner it inhibits rust, provides sound deadening, and leaves a nice rubber coat I am happy with the results still going to add a couple more coats good stuff and no stink when dry. Remember rug is going in anyways I just wanted to add some protection.



Attachment 18477

Attachment 18478

Attachment 18479

Attachment 18480



Coil wiring



Attachment 18481

Attachment 18482

Attachment 18483



Really need help on what to do with this, this is where the gauge bezel mounts to the dash as you can see mine is tore up. has anyone had any experience on what to do to mount the bezel in this case.



Attachment 18484

Attachment 18485



And last but not least my mechanic ME ! ! !



Attachment 18486

well for the positive I drilled a hole on the lower half of the driverside trans tunnle then ran it inside over the tunnle then ran it down the passanger side under the carpet to the rear bin. For the negative I ran it out through the bin and grounded it all the way up the frame rail to the engine bay.

so your positive cable goes straight to the starter then you pull your power for the accessories from the starter. or you run a separate cable to the battery?

thats how i did mine, + cable runs from battery to starter, then i left the factory battery harness in there.

cool beans

I'd invest in some bulkhead connectors rather than a grommet through the firewall.

im going to have to look into that I got the seats into the car and putting rear bins in will post some progress pics soon since i had to move

Making some pretty quick progress keep up the good work https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/bigthumb.gif



Great idea with the lining and im glad you didnt go too fancy, with that **** its more about how you prep whats underneath than anything else.

I am going to put some more bed liner in but it is good stuff and is tough to remove so i hope it will hold up for some time. I am almost done with the wiring so it is time to start looking for a motor. I am going 13B-RE for sure and im planing on dropping the motor in as is finishing up the wiring on the motor and try to start it up. Im going to inspect the motor first outside the car and see if it needs a rebuild before i put it in, if that is the case i will scratch the idea and rebuild it first then drop it in. We will see how things go and im getting back like 3K from income tax so progress will come quick.

Wow 3k I got...300.

Some progress pics



Interior I know seats are blue and car has grey interior but it is all going to the interior man for a complete black make over https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

https://i196.photobucket.com/albums/...e/100_0270.jpg

Attachment 18405

Attachment 18406

Attachment 18407

Attachment 18408



The wiring Continued

Attachment 18409

Attachment 18410

Attachment 18411



Im going to use this plug i got off my friends RX-7 to make an engine harness quick release. It is from the AC stuff of of his car.

Attachment 18412



And my old Arospeed Strut Bar

Attachment 18413

do you guys think that connector will be fine or what?

yep, might not have enough wires though

its one short LOL and im going to put a quick disconnect on that one wire.

UPDATE. Got The fuel pump wired up had to extend a couple cables from the microtech harness. I am just going to a walbro 225lph for now to get the car moving. I also finished routing the 12V+ Switched to the coils and the microtech. Also started testing the functionality of the car since it has been close to 4 years since this car has had power. Hooked op the battery and the lights I had already tested so they checked out. One of the flip ups was not going up so i sprayed the inside of the motor relay with electrical connection cleaner and did the trick. here is a list.



Lights and flip up = OK

Tail Lights and turn signals = OK

Wipers = Only work on the I Setting tried it with 2 switches and did the same suspect motor.

Horn = the CPU Clicks but the horn does not sound. I provided the horns with a 12V + and they sounded

Dome Lights = OK

Hatch Light on Strut = OK

HVAC Controls = OK Yes I want A/C.

Little to no progress on my build had to spend $2600 on a transmission rebuild for my ford explorer. All wiring is done everything is functional just waiting on the $$$ for the motor. I can taste it already...............