Well I found a broken manifold stud , and couldnt remove it without first removing the motor. so long story short a fixed it thinking maybe this was the cause of my no run problem. Well its all back together and it still doesnt run. I notice that the turbo does no spin at idle though is this normal? also I get spark for the first rew seconds i turn the car over then it stops throwing spark . SO it still almost starts then dies. lol out of ideas Help anyone?

Turbo should be spinning. Not at 20,000 RPM mind you but it should be turning.







Start with a compression check. Pull out the leading plugs on both rotors, remove the EGI fuse, crank the car over and listen for even chugs of compression.



Got compression?

Yeah its pretty healthy/loud sound of compression. Guess i could get a standard gauge/kit but couldnt really check each face right?

Nope, that's just a starting point. You got enough compression to make it run, so it doesn't matter. It's not running.



How do you know you have spark and then you lose it? Is it firing and then missing or? I'd check with a timing gun to see if your spark is actually being cut off (electronically by the ECU), or if it's still firing but bad AFR causing it to miss.

well I can tell I'm losing spark cause I had the old lady crank it over for me and I set the plug against the block and for about 2-3 seconds it has a nice strong arc then nothing. I also lose the trailing cause i have no rpm needle bump after a bit either. This problem is reset when i turn the key to off and then crank again with the same results 2-3 seconds of spark then nothing.

Okay, so I'm assuming you've got fuel?



Obviously there's something wrong with the CAS, the CAS determines when to throw the power to the plugs by means of engine position, and it's telling the computer to shut down. That, or the ECU by other means is being told to shut the motor down, so it ignores the CAS information and says stop.



I mean, your coilpacks gotta be working if you've got spark for 2-3 seconds each time and then you lose BOTH sides of ignition (lead and trail). That's a computer issue.



Do you know people around with parts or what? I'd be trying another CAS, and if no difference, then an ECU. Start there. But I'm around people who have these parts in boxes collecting dust. Do you have a FSM? If you don't I can look up information on testing or diagnosis of a CAS or ECU. I'm sure somebody has done it if you want to try and search it out but if you got extra parts around somewhere, try them. If you don't and don't have an FSM, I'll tell you how to diagnose. We should be able to narrow it down pretty quickly.





Just for jokes, make sure you have enough oil. I don't know if back then they had an auto-shutdown for low oil level. If you have enough oil try grounding out the sensor quickly to see if it doesn't shut down again. That would mean that it DOES have an oil shutdown and your level sensor is fucked.

Ok check this out my buddy had an AFM laying around. Not sure what it is out of but pluged it in and the car will run. not right mind you but will idle all in its own etc. As for the extra parts I also thought it was the CAS so I got one off ebay and replaced it. then an ECU . The AFM I got was from a Checkers down the street. As it was a remaned part could be bad i guess.



Also I had to remove the anti-theft box when i got the car. It went up in smoke literally. would this affect my spark prob?