Well Im sure it was only a matter of time, but it finally happened 5 yrs. first blown motor. It's time to learn....

Heres some background..



I just put a 50mm tial bov and new charge pipe on, the next day it rained I couldnt drive the car hard. Next day after work I went snowboarding some kid wipes out in front of me, I jumped over him caught an edge, face flopped broke my arm, 2 days later had surgery 5inch plate and 6 screws, in a cast past my elbow, cant drive.



Started the car up a couple weeks after surgery got a small arm brace now and let it idle for a while, just to keep it fresh. So I guess I fowled the plugs from it idling to long cause it began to ran like ****, I cleaned them and reinstalled, the car ran fine. I said **** it I'll go run my laundry to work and my moms.

Leave work get snagged in an inspecton stop make sit thru this gay mobile inspection unit for like an hour and gave ma a 130 dollar ticket assholes lol

So I get to my moms and leave.

My bros following me in his Dinan 3 series. So I punch it at 7 lbs it mad some weird noise didnt know where or what it was did it again saw my boost start flucuating and the car starts runs like **** and stalls. I restart it running like **** thought my plugs just got loaded up cause of my earlier problem drive home park it went and got new plugs for it put them in no change I said ****.

Went to work yesterday grabbed my compression tester front rotor all faces over 100psi and the rear 50,50,100psi :( ****



I called and spoke to Tony at T&R. He told me what I expierienced was a pinging, and was most likely caused by some type of fuel problem. Anyone have anymore info on this?



So went strait back to work grabbed most of my tools and went at it.

In an hour I turned my garage in to a shop. 4hrs later motor and trans are out and seperated got the turbo off too. Mind you I did this all basically 1 handed with no power tools. The only help I recieved was when I accually pulled it out, my buddy helped guide it out of the bay.

So, I was gonna finish and tear it down to a short block today but its ******* snowing like blizzard type lol. My little dinky compressors not strong enough to blast off the flywheel nut, soo I have to throw it in the Cadi and go to work to get it off but its too crazy out to drive there:(

Basically I figured Id let you know what an awsome month I've had lol



The real reason I made this theard is to get some tips on my rebuild and see what u guys are using in your motors.



Because Im out of work for the next 2 monthes and have nothing else to do with myself, I will be rebuilding this in my room and be posting up pix and details of my build.



James

Sorry to hear, not a good way to start a new year. Well with your broken arm you dont have to drag it to your work and back just to get the nut off. get a chizzle and a hammer, couple good wacks it will spin off. Tear it down, post the pics.

The compressor isn't the issue, it's the impact gun. Just borrow a bigger gun from somebody and bring it home (that's what I did, worked like a charm).

I have an IR titanium gun not the prob the compressor is **** it doesnt hold pressure long enough for it to hit lol yeah so im gonna drag it to work when I get the chance I did however go out there and tear it down to a short block and snapped some pix

heres my arm

my new shop lol

why will it only let me post 2mb worth of pix?

almost out

out

a real short block lol

You should find that kid that cut you off in the snow and beat his ass.

at least my ports are nice

his exact words were

"oh. my bad bro, are u ok?"

me

"no i just broke my arm"

him

"damn bro" broads away

some one else find me asks if i could get down the mountainhe got me a medic and they snowmobiled me down to the first aid spot

me

"no, i just broke my arm"

medic

"oh its probly not broken just spraned"

me

"no i felt it snap right over my wrist guard"

medic

"oh"

they thought I was milking it cuz I wasnt crying

then had to find my friends to drive me and my car to the hospital an hour away

so I was just going over the stuff that im going to need for the rebuild. so i went to mazdatrix to start pricing out my build I found a full gasket set 300 bux and the rotor kits like 1300 but is that just a stock kit? arent there REW seals or springs that would be considered an upgrade? what about apex seals? I was looking into goopy. anyhelp from you guys would be awsome. im back to being a noob lol

thanks

james

__________________

Bummer deal man :/ my rebuild was expensive but I had it ported and converted to single turbo and a jdm trans swap.

i looked thru the exhaust ports and saw no damage in there if I just cracked a seal could I just put in new ones and reassemble it with all new gaskets?

Depends man, when they tore mine apart they found that the housings were cracking around the spark plug holes. You never really know how bad it is till you get into it unfortunately.

Originally I thought I had just popped the twins....again lol my seals were good amazingly but the housings were toast. The seals were

All replaced though of course as part of the rebuild. How are you checking the compression btw? I thought you had to have a stupid expensive rotary specific tester

The motor is realitivly fresh 10-15k miles on it, pre mixed, oil changed every 1500-3000miles. Prior to this all rotor faces over 100psi. I shouldnt have a problem with my housings being I still have over 100psi on that one face Im hoping that I just cracked a seal.

checking compression with a regular compression tester w/o the shrader valve in

Dear James:



With a turbo, detonation is much more likely. You should invest in a knock retard with the rebuild. I had two 1991's and a 1994 rebuilt. Then i found that it is about the same or cheaper to just buy a rebuilt engine from Bonzai or Pettit Racing and send them your core.



J&S used to sell a knock retard device called a Vampire. It is a one man show in Southern California. It retards the timing when detonation is likely. I have one on my rebuilt 3rd gen with efini twins.



Regards,



Jeff

yes what looking it to this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Knock...Q5fCarQ5fParts



looking in to the RA superseals and springs mihght just buy everything there anyone using there stuff have opinions on it?

also wondering how to use a 5 gallon bucket instead of purchasing a engine mount for the stand. Do u just drop the nose in and start unstacking? should i expect things exploding or pooping out when I open it?

also what tools will i need for checking clearances and seal specs?

Im planning on basically replacing everything with RA over haul kit gonna upgrade apex seals and springs too. Also planning on doing thermal pellet mod, and modifing the oil pressure regulators



I am gonna by the stand adaptor. Itll make my life easier.



It also looks like ill be purchasing a flywheel stopper cause this front balancer bolt wont come out. Ive tried 2 1/2" guns and 2 3/4' guns. This thing wont budge ive been at it since 11 o clock. Im getting upset any advice?



As for the tools I have every thing availible to me so that wont cost me anything. Just need to know what to grab

__________________

Once you get the flywheel stopper you will be golden. You just need a few 1/2 braker bars and a breaker bar, good friend to hold the engine. The bolt and nut can be a PITA sometimes but one way or another it will come off.

just ordered from mazdatrix.

Line Quantity Part Number Part Name Price Total

1) 1 49-220TB TOOL FLYWHEEL STOP $22.89

2) 1 MZTX-ENG-STAND TOOL ENGINE STAND $90.00

Total: $112.89

my future purchase list



Pineapple Racing

Pilot Bearing & Seal

Item Number: PLTBRG/S $12.50

* whole number $12.50

Rotor Housing Coolant Passage Plug

Item Number: EP20S $6.95

* whole number $6.95

Stainless Steel Crank Angle Sensor Cover - Ninja

Item Number: CASC-SN $14.95

* whole number $14.95

FC Aluminum Oil Pan

Item Number: FCAS $249.00

* whole number $249.00

Shims for front cover pressure regulator

Item Number: PRSSHIMS $2.95

* whole number $2.95

Mazda Seal Case

Item Number: SEALCS $69.00

* whole number $69.00

TOTAL $355.35

Rotary Aviation

Description Price Quantity Amount

Thermal Pellet - US

8.50 quantity|

Super Seal UPGRADE - US/Canada

60.00 quantity|

87-88 TURBO Install Gaskets - US/Canada

118.80 quantity|

2 mm RA Racing Spring Set 2 Rotor - US

80.50 quantity|

86-91 BASIC Overhaul Kit-US ONLY

541.00 quantity|

Item total:$808.80

add 98 for OMP adaptor

I am planning on having all my Injectors cleaned and flow tested, I am also thinking of purchasing a new FPR and sumping the tank and moving the pump in there will just have to change my lines around a little.



So im unsure whether im gonna go with the full kit of basic kit I guess i have to wait till Get every thing out and start measuring. Im gonna buy a seal box from pineapple to keep every thing organized

James

Since you'll have the engine out you may want to get a pan brace and replace the motor mounts. I got both at banzai-racing.com. The pan brace goes all around the bottom of the oil pan to help prevent the housings from twisting apart in higher power builds.

i just bought pineapple raceings aluminum pan with internal baffle should be stronger then stock

The pan brace isn't for the pan's integrity, but the block's. Maybe I'm over cautious, but the brace is a quarter inch thick lol

From the looks of it the mounting flange on the pans thicker then that should perform the same task of the brace

Jwteknix... get used to it. LOL, sorry, i couldn't help it...i've been thru 13-14 engines so far. Anyway, i'm impressed that you got the engine out with a broken robo cop arm. Good job.





Do you have a regular engine stand? (for a v6-8) Just cover the shipping and i'll send you my rotary engine adapter to use with to make your build a lil easier.

Grey GTC thanks alot!! I really apperceiate your generosity, but I just purchase one from mazdatrix

So got the motor in the basement and mounted.

Removed the oil pan and pick up, spend an hour removing all the silicone.

Got the front bolt loose only took an 8ft pipe on the breaker bar was surprised the shitty mazdatrix weld held up on the flywheel stopper. Did find the termal pellet was replaced but the regulators werent upgraded.

Took the front cover off removed the pump, chain, and everything down to the stationary gear.

Flipped it broke free all of the torsion bolts and removed rear stationary gear only thing left is to crack it open gotta wait til later :(



I did notice on of the bolts had an old mazda emblem on it is this normal?



Also noticed I am running a N/A rear housing theres no coolant passange to the LIM. I was gonna block them anyway. Is there any other problems with this?



ill post pix later

James

yeah, the odd ball "M" bolt goes on the exhaust side of the engine, down at the oil pan. It's the only one that is exposed to the outside of the engine (where it passes by the rotor housings)

Hey guys ripped it apart today got a whole bunch of pix found my culprit in my rear rotor one of the apex seals lost a tip so carried on to the front and found a cracked cornerseal it was in two peices sitting there lucky it stayed together I guess. So I took pix of everything let me kno what u guys think

for pix look here i cant post more then 2 pix here at a time

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...1#post10414931

So I did a ruff degreasing on everything, then packed it up to meet the Judge himself at his new shop Advanced Rotary Performance hes just moving in, but hes back and like 20 minutes from me in Paterson.

I contacted him the other day about some porting templates and housings Id like to purchase.

He replied quickly and gave me his number and new shops address.

We met up at the new shop hes renovating and he is very nice, I was there for over an hour talking rotary and hes very knowledgeable.

He inspected all my plates and housings for me.

Told me not to spend my money lapping the housings on my first build, that mine are in reuseable condition. God forbid some thing happened I wouldnt wana waste all that money. He said I should get more expeirience and confidence before spending the big bux on everything, I feel hes right. He said the ports are mild and could just use some minor touch up im gonna purchase some of his larger templates and purchase a pineapple exhuast template.

The housings are ok, Im gonna replace the rear one with one of Itos and keep the front even tho it has some very minor flaking in the compression area they both will be brought to John at Goopy for resurfacing.

Cant wait to start this build. Looking for alittle over 400whp. Ito sid thats fine for these irons anything more Id have to upgrade.

For now,

James

Took a bunch pix this morning while doing a bit more ruff cleaning and inspecting. my rotor slots and oil ring passages still have to be cleaned and I wana clean the outside of the irons better to prep for paint and use Itos template to open them up a bit. The tII housing Im using is gonna get media blasted and resurfaced along with another Im gonna pick up from Ito. Theses will be getting a pineapple exhuast port