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Originally Posted by banzaitoyota' post='786619' date='Dec 14 2005, 12:07 PM
The liability issues associated with producing a BBK for sale to the public are tremendous. ****** lawyers. i hate them rat bastards!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Fabbing a bracket to hold the calipers is a bad idea unless your willing to do a lot of research work beforehand, and still risk a bad weld, miscalculation, or something failing and the caliper shearing right off the hub assembly to bounce around inside your wheel and create havok... sounds like asking for trouble to me. the caliper bracket needs to withstand just as much force and counter-torque as the caliper can apply to the rotor.
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Originally Posted by toplessFC3Sman' post='787109' date='Dec 15 2005, 09:27 PM
Fabbing a bracket to hold the calipers is a bad idea unless your willing to do a lot of research work beforehand, and still risk a bad weld, miscalculation, or something failing and the caliper shearing right off the hub assembly to bounce around inside your wheel and create havok... sounds like asking for trouble to me. the caliper bracket needs to withstand just as much force and counter-torque as the caliper can apply to the rotor. its not as hard as one would think to do this, since i am a journymen machinest i think i will have no problem making the brakets needed to mount some calipers. p.s. you sound like a lawyer, boooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! |
My brake adapters:
[attachment=35347:attachment] And yes that's a weld but they're also held together with the original caliper bolts so even if the weld breaks they're fine. They've never been on the car so I can't exactly say they won't fail, but they're certainly not going to break before the little aluminium lugs on the calipers do. Basically I'm just agreeing with the previous post. Mark |
Originally Posted by nismo convert' post='786531' date='Dec 14 2005, 08:34 AM
You would trust a weld on your braking system? YOu're a brave man, how do you know the integrity of the weld? you want to use a one piece machined part, expensive yes, but much stronger, and safer. My effin gawd, your one of those people who are always telling me to cut away from myself, not to stand on the top step of the ladder, and to switch the breaker off before I unhook a light. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Guess Ive been arround enough welds to know what I can and cant trust. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png |
Originally Posted by GMON' post='788022' date='Dec 19 2005, 08:51 AM
My effin gawd, your one of those people who are always telling me to cut away from myself, not to stand on the top step of the ladder, and to switch the breaker off before I unhook a light. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Guess Ive been arround enough welds to know what I can and cant trust. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png lol yeah. castings break, bolts fatigue, hell sometimes the pads even fall out |
Originally Posted by GMON' post='788022' date='Dec 19 2005, 11:51 AM
My effin gawd, your one of those people who are always telling me to cut away from myself, not to stand on the top step of the ladder, and to switch the breaker off before I unhook a light. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Guess Ive been arround enough welds to know what I can and cant trust. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png There is a difference in trusting work you do for yourself, and work that is made available to the general public; unfortunately |
Originally Posted by GMON' post='785692' date='Dec 12 2005, 01:32 PM
I dont see one thread talking about cooling. I dont see one thread about the pros/cons to higher temp break fluid. Ive never seen anyone post pics of their break cooling duct mod. Never once seen posts about how you can cut extra grooves into your pads for heat to escape. Hell, I wonder how many people on this board change their fluid every event? And yes your tires do stop your car. Breaks change inertia in to heat! This heat can only become intense to a point of the weakest link in your break system and that would be the boiling point of your break fluid. Point Im tryin to make is that from a perfomance point of view is that smaller breaks are better if they are up to the job. Why not at least attempt to see what they can do with a few relatively cheap mods. They let a gas escape that is created when the pad contacts the rotor and allow for fuller contact between the pad and rotor their for slowing the car down better. The hotter your brakes the better till a certain point where the the brakelines expand and you melt your rotor. It is an intersting question about the brake fluid boiling or heat effect on the brake fluid I've never hear/read anything about it. And yes as you guys said tires are important. |
Originally Posted by v41kyr' post='788092' date='Dec 19 2005, 12:33 PM
You know that the slots and the holes on slotted and drilled rotors are not for cooling right. They let a gas escape that is created when the pad contacts the rotor and allow for fuller contact between the pad and rotor their for slowing the car down better. The hotter your brakes the better till a certain point where the the brakelines expand and you melt your rotor. It is an intersting question about the brake fluid boiling or heat effect on the brake fluid I've never hear/read anything about it. And yes as you guys said tires are important. Yep, ur right, should say "gases" not "heat", my bad https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png |
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