Whats the best method to relocate the battery to boot? Should i just extend current wiring from the engine bay under the car, or totally re-do wiring?





any suggestions, thanks!!

hmmm i have no clue but i wanna know also

Extending cables is the easy way!



Now the profesional way would be redoing all the wires. Starter, Alternator, And Main Fues Box. Im going to redo the wireing just to not have to worry about the damn cables ever again. Here is a tip though have a set of battery posts + and - under the hood so you wont have to jump/charge the battery inside the car. That is more of a personal prefrance but to each his own. Or do what I did on my last car Since I had shaved doors and the battery going dead was a nightmare i made a little harness I could plug in to to get a little current into the car and mount it somewhere under the front bumper so you can reach it in such case.



When I do my install I will post some pics.

I put mine in the passenger bin. I bolted a distributor where the stock battery sat and ran cables throught the firewall. All the + and - 's are still under the hood but the weight of the battery is much farther back. It also frees up space for IC piping.



Letme see if I can get a pic.

you can see the distributor on the drivers wheel well above the leading coil.

wow that picture is like 8 months old.

I'll get e newer one. I've cleaned it up alot.



T

i put my battery in the passenger bin too. the negative cable goes to the body right there, and the + goes to the starter. then there is a small + from the starter to the under hood fuse box.

The way I've done it in the past (mind you, it was on a racecar) was to secure the battery in the bin. I ran the - to the body there, just make sure it's an outstanding connection or you'll have problems. I then ran the large + to the starter and a smaller (I think 12 gauge, but can't remember exactly) + to the alternator. From there I ran a short length to the fusible links.



Not sure if running the fusible links off the starter would cause a problem or not but seems like it would work.



j9fd3s -> How long have you run this setup? Any charging problems?



Also, I used an Optima Red Top (gel cell) so that there's no need for a battery box or any of that crap.

That sounds pretty easy...I think I'll have to do that.

i would do a total rewire. the less breaks you have in your cable the less problems you will have. a bad connection can cost you voltage and amperage

and if you are going to relocate your battery be sure to use a drycell battery

I don't understand what you guys are going to rewire?



There is only 2 wires that have to be cut, and sodiered! And someone said to rewire the alternator. Why would you mess with that, all you have to do is shorten two wires, point them the other way, and hook them up to the new + cable you ran to the drivers side suspension tower.





What are you guys rewireing? I just did this to my supra7, but it wasn't because I wanted a better weight balance it is because my 7MGTE's alternator sits were the stock battery sits. Also why are all of you people doing this?



If someone says weight balance I'm going to fall out of my chair laughing!!!

i did it maybe a month ago? no charging problems at all

oh cause taking 50 lb from the front of your car...and moving it to the middle doesnt change the weight of the car



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif









but you arent a big guy on having a balanced car are ya? with taht big heavy inline 6 https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

I ran the fused links off the starter for a month. Then after I relocated my fuse box to behind my dash I ran one straight from the battery. No problems either way.

lol

BUY A FUSE!!!



Guys if you're running a huge (-1 or 0 guage) wire that far, through the firewall or wherever, fuse it! Right at the battery.



There's just too many things for that cable to rub against, cut through the insulation and short. I had a 150 amp fuse on mine that worked for quite a while, until my starter began to fail and draw too much current.



Any good car stereo shop can 'hook you up'.

I have been meaning to get around to that!

tyson is very right.



I attended a rotaryrockets race day @ grattan and one of the cars suddenly died and wouldnt start again like it had a dead battery. It took a couple hours to get down to the power wires and find it had been rubbing on the frame and shorted out (the positive cable). I asked the pit guy no fuses on these things? he laughed and said no fuses on race cars.



The battery was dead, hot, and venting. And the alternator needed to be replaced.



man was the driver pissed, he lost out on most of the practice rounds for the day because of that stupid thing.

we basically copied the miata setup, it has no fuse. neither did the mgb. i dont disagree with having one though

That there is a great quote.



Yeah, I would recommend the fuse also, too many stories of batteries terminating prematurely from that.

i saw this guy's car catch fire at a practice drift day because he had a metal relocation box, first the postive cable wrapped itself around a steering colum, causing it to slice itself open on the METAL relocation box and ground out sparking like crazy and lighting the sorrounding carpting on fire.

The reason it's getting relocated to the boot, is so there is more room in the engine bay for all the goodies i have install for the na vert https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I think i'll do something similiar to that diagram.



Thanks for all the help yankies and aboots!!!

lol it sounds like that setup wasnt that great in the first place.

that guy was a moron and he's now trying to sell his tII for like 3700 and i blew his spot up and told everyone it caught fire. im a nice guy.

haha

Noooo, because you can go out and buy a dry cell battery that weighs like 8 lb. And save alot of useless work. It just seems like a pointless "mod" to do, when you can get the same effect with less work.

Also the engine bay looks alot cleaner!!

Those small batteries suck for street cars. Yes I have had one, they take extra long to crank the engine and like to die out real quick. J9 also recently got rid of his in the 20b...

but all the cool guys have the gel cell batteries

mine couldnt hack these winter temps in the 50's

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



my pc680 is fine, it still starts the car right up even after being in storage all winter.... I just disconnect it when it's going to sit for more than a few days in case theres a significant drain somewhere. No problems yet, and I've been using it to power my laptop when working on the gauges.



it's not 8 lbs either, more like ~14.

i killed mine a lot, and it finally started to get weak, it did last almost 2 years....