As it seems the BAC valve is responsible for maintaining idle speed, what can I expect from removing the thing, and blocking off the spot it once occupied on the UIM?

your car may stall out when you turn the steering wheel when it is parked.

or turn on the defroster

So basically, I should leave it there until I install a standalone?

standalone doesnt change the need for an IAC of some sort, unless you don't mind setting a relatively high idle and letting it fluctuate under the varying loads. (this is basically how my car is configured currently, but I am thinking about adding an IAC so I can setup fastidle @ cold start and at that point I might as well just use it for regular idle control too)



standalones support controlling an IAC, the haltechs support the BACV natively.

there is also no Horsepower performance gains of removing your emissions solenoids and lines.

It helped my car run better. I removed everything at one time. It really made the car feel better. Not a HP gain, but it was smoother. My car idles where it wants to now. But if I really wanted to, I could get it below 1500, but why would i do that.



The car wont stall out if you dont have power steering https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

i doin't understand why people go out of their ways to remove things that make the car less user friendly. THey are there for a reason.

I'm definitely not one of those people. The reason I'm asking this question is that I have removed the stock TID and turbo bypass valve and replaced them with a custom made TID and a Turbo XS type H34 respectively. Since the BACV draws air from the same fitting where the H34 is, I didn't want to add nipples where I didn't absolutely have to.

so u would rather remove the BAC, reroute the cooling lines? live with high idle instead of drilling a hole in your custom made inlet duct and epoxying a nipple on?