https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif ok where are the apex seals and how do i change them and is thier any special tool needed or not? a diagram would be helpful

Umm...from the way you asked your question, it doesn't sound like you know very much about rotary engines.



The apex seals are located at the corners of the rotors. And essentially, to change them, you will have to open up the engine to change them.



Why are you planning to change them? Are they broken? Are rebuilding your engine?

Sounds like maybe he bought a car or is gonna buy one with Bad apex seals, and he seems to betrying to find out how much work it would take.. I could be wrong..

Umm yeah.....if you really want some in depth info, go here: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm



Buy the video, watch it, watch it again, then decide if that's what you want to do https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Has anyone digitized this, or a video similar that I could download?

If so it would be nice as I was planning on buying it within a week or so and wouldn't mind saving 30+ $$

well i had boughten an 87 7 t2 that had a cracked manifold changed everything started it it wouldnt start checked vacuum fuel pressure mafs and all the little things and it still wont start or if it does it will idle erradically dropping and raising on its own then it will kill its self so im thinking its the apex seals compression is fine also or could it be something else i havent checked



but the thing is the oil smells like gas real bad so it was flooded but i cleaned it out and everything and still no good

there are ALOT of things that could cause these issues. If your compression is ok then your apex seals are ok. I was a little confused trying to figure out what you meant in your post. Also you are lucky to have posted here and not he other forum as they probably would have said something to the affect of "search!" and then banned you so that you can't.

if compression is good than the apex seals are good too. the apex seals are analagous to a piston ring in an uppy downy motor



mike

w3rd on the banning thing i dont know what is wrong with the car then,,,,,

well if you have a t2 with good compression and it doesnt run right the next thing is vacuum leaks, the stock ecu HATES them



mike

well see if thier is a vacuum leak it is really good at being a pain in the ass to find cuz ive checked all the lines and they are fine i even replaced most of them! and im running out of ideas

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png here's the thing though im on a VERY tight budget on money and im hopeing it is something simple like the timeing belt if its the springs and **** well it will have to wait a minute



just out of curiosity if the car did not have compression it wouldnt start correct?



becuase we have pull started it and it started in hopes to build compression it worked! but..... the idled irratically like i said in the first post alas i am at a loss for ideas just going by what little bit i know andy our guys input so any suggestions and diagrams would be great websites also the only thing i have to use is the haynes manual and a mechanic who doesnt know rotary we are just guessing and checking and trying everything we can think of so please help if you can .........

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

Uhh Timing belt? Spirngs and ****? This isnt a piston motor man.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif



He was kidding man, the rotary has no Timing belt or valves and springs.



If it has compression the motor should be good. Did you measure the compression right?

well see the mechanic checked the compression he said it was ok but i dont know



how would I check it my self this way i know and im not going off what he says



you know the valves and stuff sounded odd but i didnt want to say anything i figured maybe i missed something but i am also VERY new to the rotary world and not to sure about it

Let's try to keep it to helpful suggestions. He's alreadya little confused, bullshit like that isn't going to help.

Did you check the turbo inlet duct when you checked for vacuum leaks? This is the big rubber tube going from the back side of your air filter to the compressor side of your turbo. Over time and after being exposed to a lot of heat it will harden and crack. Typically it will crack on the bottom side right by the clamp. Check it and replace it if needed. Let us know what your compression check showed. If I remember correctly to check your compression you should follow these steps:

1 remove EGI fuse(in fuse panel just forward of drivers side strut tower in engine bay)

2 remove plug wire and plug from one housing

3 get compression tester and remove peek hold mechanism and attatch hose to spark plug hole

4 have friend get in car and try to start motor(won't start because of fuse being out; needs to be this way)

5 read guage on tester

6 You should see 3 even bumps at about 90psi or higher

Repeat for next housing. Make sure you replace all parts removed from previous housing(plug and wire). If there is a big difference in the readings then you have a blown seal or stuck seal. Hope this helps. If I forgot anything guys, feel free to add on becuase I want him to be able to get this the right way. Good luck!!!!

Just a thought: How long has it been since this car was running? If the gas is old it would run like crap. When I got mine, I drained the tank and filled it with some nice new 93 octane.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif ok here is the whole speal about the car .



February 12th first visit to the car checked it out priced it started it it started (no exhaust or manifold on it due to replacing process) left sit for about a month thier due to weather and snow and ****

around march 23rd we go get the car didnt start it then just hooked it up and towed it to my house.



due to money i have to wait till may to get it worked on i fiddled with it but realized i needed it higher so i could work on it (havent started it since the first visit) so i call my mechanic drop it off about mid may early july he calls me tells me he has it together But it wont run at all or it will start and idle really bad rising and dropping itself or it will die. so i tell him well see what you can do to fix it he says ok about 3 weeks later he calls me and says man im out of idea's on whats wrong with the car

i checked the MAF its ok

the ecu is not putting error codes out

it gets good spark

fuel pressure is fine its getting fuel (we put 4 gallons in it new)

oil is fine changed it while he was doing stuff it gets oil and everything

so i say ok well dig deeper

vacuum hoses were good all were replaced now the car runs alittle worse or not at all

battery is dead but we bought a new one and replaced it and this is where im at now



stuck with a T2 that wont run or start due to god knows what and im just going by your guys imput

2 things...



First, a rotary with problems is definately not a good car to have if you have some tight budget problems. Yes, they are great cars, but they are also extrememly tempremental, and if the previous owner didn't take good care of it, you'd be better off using it as a paper weight. That's the sad but true story of it.



Secondly, if you are dead set on having this car... go to this link to get a general idea on how a rotary works, since you said that you are VERY new to this whole gig. http://travel.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm



In my opinion rotary engines are great things if you manage to find a good one or manage to salvage one. The trick to em is doin what was previously stated. Good luck! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

well here is what i think im going to do im going to wait till after christmas then im going to dump any and all money into this car im going to rebuild or have rebuilt the engine and redo the the whole car but till then im going to tinker with it and try to get it to atleast run right but not for racing yet . (yet)

Here's another site to look at once you understand everything at the how stuff works site. http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com



Good luck man!

better save a lot of money, my TII engine rebuild cost $5500, but my mechanic did all the work since i didn't have the tools or a garage.



also, you need to change your signature



"If I'm blue and I pass you on my bike, that aint my TII, cuz it aint running"

"If I'm blue and I pass you on my bike, that aint my TII, cuz it aint running"





rofl smart @$$ https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/*******.gif

Okay, you say you have checked and fixed your vacuum leaks. That is a good start for a poorly running car. Check your crank angle sensor and the timing. Check your idle adjust. The combination of a loose crank angle sensor and poorly adjusted idle made my car run like **** when it came out of the rebuild. Could possibly be a bad TPS or poorly adjusted TPS. A car would not run with a bad or poorly adjusted TPS.

Don't give up or the PISTON GODS WIN!



Check and double check everything, research and research and you will learn more than you can believe. That what this place is for. You will figure it out, if you have good compression the motor should be good. It has to be something else.

umm 5500 dollars for a rebuild. DAMN!!!



does your mechanic use gold toilet paper?

Don't scare the guy. A TII rebuild doesn't cost that much. I know of guys that spend 6-9 hundred dollars on rebuilds. not 5k.



Santiago

dont scare the guy? i already mentioned that included all labor from my mechanic.



$600-900 dollars? the rebuild kit from racing beat alone costs $1100.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif http://rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htmunder 1k dollars for a kit from rotaryaviation.



Add in an engine hoist for two days thats 80 dollars more. and a housing and rotor. thats another 150. looking at around 1300 dollars not 5500. Its not hard at all to do it yourself. Just buy the vid. It makes it simple.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



Santiago

http://rotaryresurrection.com/





Kevin Landers also does very affordable rebuilds. Check out his engines section and go to pricing. You will be amazed how much cheaper he is than most others.



Santiago

omg im starting to love you guys ! you guys are giving me so much info my pc crashes(jk) by anyways i will do as much as i can with the cost differential and my paycheck amount (like little thier) but i will do as much as i can and i will keep in touch thanks for the websites and the video is in the mail!.

oh just out of curiosity is the only place around ohio that does 7's is in michigan or is thier some place closer? im in lima ohio right about middle of ohio and by indiana .

I'm in Toledo, and I think the closest ones are in Michigan.

im going to sound real dumb but whats in your hands is the apex seal right? i hope so damn weather here is messing with my plans to work on this in the sunlight so im going bit by bit right now thanks for everything so far guys oh if anyone is selling parts (interior like carpeting and seats grey preferably) please let me know

i got alot of stains and **** on the interior thanks all for everything

Si senor, that is an apex seal.



edit: an out of focus apex seal at that!

Focus on getting the car running, instead of stains on your seats lol



Just get pep boys $9.99 dollar seat covers for now.



I STRONGLY suggest you purchase the factory service manual, not a haynes or chiltons manual, they are useless. Don't take offense to this, but use better grammar and we all will be able to help you even more :-)

ok ok sorry about the grammar not to sure to short terms of words so i try to spell them out but as you know im from ohio so im not to good at spelling im trying to get ahold of the factory service manual but cant find one around here im going to have to ebay it i guess,.....

You can get a copy from here.

It is in adobe format but you can download and print what you want.

It is located under the How To section, then manual.



They have the FSM for 86-91 I believe.



Greg