Changed plugs, changed out battery since I was not getting enough volts to have it turned over.



I have not even tried the ATF trick yet, since it is not really a bad motor, and I was told not to put it in there, but if it starts it up, I will do it.



What else should I check out on the car. Could it be starter, plug wires, igniters, or just a blown engine? Blown engine would be saying too much since I have an N/A and it only has 168,xxx miles on it.



Please help since this is my only car that I can drive legally.



Car is an 88 N/A with no real mods.

I also put a bit of 20w50 on the leading plugs and tried that, and did not help.



Should I say **** it and put in a little bit of ATF on all 4 plugs and turn it over?



Also tried the EGI Main fuse relay over 10 times and it did not help any.

How long has it been since it ran. first check to see if you have fuel, spark, and good compression. As far as the atf trick you don't put it on the plugs, you put an ounce in each cylinder through the bottem holes. Go to www.rotaryperformance.com and they have it step by step.

Explains more what happened here. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=42120



Been only two weeks since last running. I know it is flooded now from trying to start it up so many times.

I know the feeling. mine has done that to me 3 times this year. Go to that web site and it will walk you through it.

I tried rp.com and it has nothing on it. Just about their cars and products they sell and upgrade stuff. Nothing on getting the car to unflood.



Will this work?



-Pull the fuel pump relay.

-Take out the spark plugs

-Turn the motor over with the plugs out for 10 seconds.

-Wait a few minutes and then do it again. Repeat these steps until no gas sprays out of the plug holes.

-Squezze a tiny bit of marvel mystery oil into each rotor housing through the plug holes to keep the engine lubed. (just toplay safe)

-Put new plugs back in but dont hook up the plug wires.

-Rotate the motor with the gas pedal wide open for 10 seconds.

-Reinstall the fuel pump relay and plug wires.

-Start it.

-Once it starts keep on the gas if it tries to stall. It should clear itself out.



Found this in the 3rd Gen FAQ. Be the same thing right?



I am losing my mind on this car. I am just gonna try push starting it and running it into a tree and collect the insurance from it. LOL. J/K.

-first pull your plugs

-pull the egi main fuse& fuse in the dash

-turn the motor over just as you said but keep the gas pedal all the way to the floor

-put 1 once of trans fluid in each of the bottom plug holes(use a funnel with a rubber hose)

-put new plugs back in and put wires back on

-put fuses back

-cross your fingers and try to start the car

- you should get a lot of white smoke out your tailpipe

try putting clean plugs in it and unplugging the fuel pump

if your putting new plugs back in then that means your almost done. don't unplug the fuel pump.

Plugs are brand new. Yesterday when I pulled them to put oil on them for some lubrication in turning the engine over, they were fresh, with no corrosion of course.



I hope I would not have to buy ANOTHER set of plugs.

are you close to finishing . Are you even working on the car yet.

OK, Do you know for sure that you are even getting spark? Nothing is going to happen without that.



Also, just to be certain, turn the engine over with the starter with the all the plugs out and the EGI fuses pulled. You should be able to tell right away if your motor is still intact.



I have had both the flooding and the spark issue before. Something else HAS to be messed up if it stalled on you while driving. Was it when you pushed the clutch in as if coming to a stop or were you just cruising along with the clutch out and the car in gear when it died?





BTW: GOOD LUCK!!!

It was actually in second gear coming up to a red light, and I know the light is short, so I rode 2nd gear all the way through, then it just started sputtering once I put the gas back on slightly since the RPM's would've been high of course with the clutch out of course, and just started sputtering and kicking back and being really violent and bitchy, and I made a turn to where I work and as soon as I made the turn it died on me and I had to let it just roll right into a vacant parking lot. Also when it was sputtering and dying on me, I could not go over 45mph. I did not really check my RPM's. Now I wish I did though.



It was just weird that it would do that. I have never read anywhere else of this happening.



I can't really check for spark unless the engine is running is what the POS Haynes manual says to do.

meh, an easy way to tell is to have a buddy crank the engine over while you pull one of the plug wires out of the coil and hold it about about an inch or 2 away. If you see some sparks then there ya go. I suggest doing this ooutside if possible cause sparks + gas = bang. You as well should get a little shock too.



Once it is running it will be a lot easier to get a beat on the other problem.

do the atf trick, it won't hurt anything.



and don't worry about a fuse in the dash, just the main egi under the hood. pull that, pull the bottom plugs, turn the motor over a few times, put a little atf into both plug holes, re install plugs, turn over a few times, put the egi fuse back in, start the car. less than 5 minutes and it should be running.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif It runs.



BUT!!! Has really shitty ass idle, and will not stay started. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif I was so glad to hear that hum of a rotary engine again, but won't stay started.



Now tomorrow I am gonna replace the fuel filter, check the injectors out, and anything else that you all would recommend I should check? Also gonna reset the TPS to the RIGHT setting.



Anything else? Man, what a ground sound. It was backfiring like craaaaaaaazy though. Even had some triple backfires out of it also. But no flames!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png

I would throw some MMO in there overnight, then when your all

done messing with it and the smoke clears put fresh plugs

and fuel filter

How much MMO? Is there anything to put in other than MMO? I have none at my place, and it is too late to go out.



What would the MMO help doing? Just lubricate it a little bit more, and eat away more of the carbon? Just curious.

I hate to say this, but the way it's acting it sounds like you did blow the motor. My car did basically the same thing when it went. This was years ago, but the story goes something like this. I was racing a guy on my way home from school, got finished with that, pulled into my driveway a few minutes later, and the car started running like ****. It's trying to turn off, sputtering/bucking/backfiring, and had no power. It was a blown apex seal. I actually drove the car to my mechanic, but it was ugly...no guts at all and it kept trying to shut off...Plus it was kinda hard to start. I'd check all the other stuff to be sure, but I think it's bad news bro.

MMO helps build compression and clean out carbon like ATF would, but is not so corrosive or bad for the plugs. Burns cleaner. I wouldn't use too much, maybe a third of a dixie cup or less in each chamber (3 per rotor). Spin the motor with the plugs out to make sure it's coated everything and give it a try. I noticed a few times too that you mentioned putting oil on the plugs...I wouldn't do that. Plugs are supposed to stay dry.

yeah I would check the compression on the engine before spending all sorts of money on other stuff.

I did notice a really odd clank, clank, clank coming up through the exhaust, but figured it was the backfires.



I hope it is not a blown motor, cause I don't have the space nor the money for it at this time. But from your example, is what happened exactly to me.



Thanks all.

Justin, I heard it tonight while yoiu guys tried to get it ruinning. I also hate to say it man but she sounded like she was running on one rotor.

Compression test it already!!! Do this, take the plugs out of the rear rotor and turn the engine over, have yoiur pops hold is hand over the holes to feel for compressed air shooting out. If there is no realy air to speak of then you need to rebuild it. If it is blown then you need to figure out what your plan is. Don't ask me how the **** you managned to blow a seal in a N/A. So long as the internals are not to bad off you could rebuild and not break the bank. Or you can just give it to me. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Also, I was thinking today. How long did you actually drive the car with the oil pressure down? When that hose poped off, if you drove it for maybe a 1/4 mile even that would certainly explain why your engine is now failing.

Hmmm. Going to compression test it tonight and see what is up with it. It did sound like it was running on one rotor, because I remember rikki saying something about it sounding like a UFO when running on one rotor. I do know that I did put paper towels over the plug holes when I turned it over with the EGI fuse out, that the paper towels flew out, of course, but does not tell me I have great compression.



I probably drove about 30 miles or more that one night when the oil cooler line bursted, but I was under the speed limit by like 20mph. But that does not matter now does it. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



And I can afford a new seal kit, but I just don't have the space to really do it, no engine stand(Dave?????), or knowledge(Dave????).



I think if I need a rebuilt engine, I will of course replace everything, minus the internals, make sure they are okay, have Dave help me port the motor, throw a Haltech in there and cat back and header and be ready for rotorfest. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png HA!!! I wish.



Thanks for the help guys. Appreciated.



I will post the compression test numbers tonight if I do it, and see what you all think. Should it be above like 6:1 or 7:1? If it is above those on all three pulses I am okay right?

You just want three consistant surges on each rotor. So long as they are above 5psi you still should technically be ok. That is if they are close to each other. If the front rotor pulls 8's and the rear pulls 5's that is no good. If you need to rebuild it I can help you pull it, (dont know when but wont be until after rotorfest) I cannot store yur car though. You will have to pull it at your house and I can rebuild the engine in my shop. I will rebuild it for you for free so long as you buy me some beer and pay for your own parts. Porting, I can if you want but keep in mind that I am no tuner (yet hopefully) and you will need alot more mods than you have now to benefit from larger ports. BTW you blew yoru engine driving with no oil. You should have stopped the car immediately and had it towed home. Now you need a rebuild because you drove on it. Food for thought.

I guess you never got around to that compression test huh?

Dude get on the ball already will ya. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

man i wish i lived close to you!

Any word on the compression test?

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png Sorry guys, I was busy last night and tonight. Will be done tomorrow for sure though.



If it does need a rebuild I would like to do it after Rotorfest of course, but before the Maryland BBQ. It would really be cutting the time, and I would have to rush on it.



What else would I need to do the port job? I figured an ECU, and maybe a header? But that would only be if I was porting the exhaust. But I would be porting the air intake, so I would wanna port the exhaust ports. Damn!! Having a car is fun and expensive. I will see what goes on.



Ummm. What else would I really need? The ECU of course, maybe some stronger coolant seals(teflon junx), and I hope I won't need new Apex Seals. Those are expensive. Or do they come with seal kits?



I would like to just scrap that 6-port motor and throw a turbo into there, but drivetrain would need to be upgrade, an S4 or S5 TII block, TII ECU(or Haltech). That would be too much work though.



I wanna rebuild it, get it back to good running condition, do all the things I have skipped, and sell it then buy a TII, or an FD(dreaming on the FD) https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

blown = apex seal(at least one) is toast.



So if it is 'blown' new apex seals will be in store. more than likely a housing as well as a rotor too.

I am hoping that is not blown, and if it is, I hope it did not do too much damage. If so, it will be sold for cheap.

you still havent checked?

It is lower than I expected. I just checked the rear rotor, and came up with numbers of 6 6 5. Haynes manual claims that two even pulses and one uneven pulse means a blown or worn out Apex Seal.



Damn, that compression tester was a bitch to get in there. I took twenty minutes doing it.



When are you available to help me rebuild it Dave?



Off topic, what else would I need to do a streetport on it at the same time besides an ECU, larger secondaries,air intake,ignition(maybe?). I wanna just completely rebuild it all up from the ground up. And maybe even paint the car at the same time. I will just have to deal with not having my RX-7 for about 3 months if I want to do all of this. Or should I just rebuild it, sell it, and buy a TII that runs?