I might add to make sure the coil is grounded. It uses its body which has to be bolted down to creat a good ground. If anything make sure you have plenty of good grounds. I would go ahead and add some anyways, couldn't hurt and it just might be whats causing this.

Good point. I forgot to say that. With mine I ground off the paint where the coil hooks to the body.



If I remember right this is a conclusive test. With my working ignitors (coils, whatever) the dead one did not spark but the new ones did.



I thought I had the e-mail from Matt about this testing but I just looked at my website and it definitely is the pink wire that triggers it.

I already cleaned up the ground on the coils and Ive been adding lots of grounds as I go.

The CAS wires N P and T Q all had continuity so that shouldnt be the problem.

When I had this problem EVERYTHING checked ok. I was stumped. Nothing that I could tell was wrong. So after trying to fix it for a week I finally just said fug it and decided to move it into my garage. Well I somehow got it started and moved it. I let it sit in the garage running for about another minutes or so and when I got went to check it again the leading coil had come back. Still don't know what really caused my problem, I'm guessing it was a grounding issue. Just like that POFF my problem was gone...

Did you check if the coils were within spec?

I made a test light out of a couple LEDs and ran it between the ignitor source wire from the ECU direct to a ground, bypassing the leading coil. when I cranked the motor the LEDs never blinked at all. I think that my ECU is dead is there any way to check for sure?

1Revvin7: I checked the resistance of the coils and they were within spec.

double post

Im going to reground the whole car tomorrow, not sure what else to do.

would it be stupid to plug my N326 ECU into a car that came equiped with N327? they are both S4 NA?

It should work with a year/same series ecu I would think. I have swapped ecus on a t2 before with no ill effects.