on my lunch break, went home, and found my new e-bay bought cone filter had arrived. I want to put this on right away, and I know I can get a small airpump filter at an autoparts store, but my pump will be gone within a month...here's my question: Do I necessarily need to put the filter on the pump intake? will it ruin it, or mess something up that I'll need?

it does need a filter but if its only a couple weeks its not a huge deal



mike

if the filter is cheap, I guess I can get one to be safe

yah, or take the belt off



mike

I still have the cats on...they will be removed within a month, which is why I was gonna remove the pump

Seems like the filter was 5 to 10 at Pep Boys here in OK. I'd put it on though. Leave it there for a couple of weeks, hollow out the cats, take off the air pump and the belt, and I wouldn't worry about the dual alternator pulley. I've had my air pump off for about 9 months, and I haven't had any slipping problems at all.

sounds good...but I'm expecting an rb header and presilencer soon https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png , and thanks for the advice on the pulley thing...less $ spent is better :bigthumg:



ooo...too many smileys...

:bigthumg:

The pipe that runs from the air pump the cat will need to connect to the RB Pre-silencer, so you might not want to remove the air pump after all. At least, that's the way I understand it (The little pipe running off the side with the flange on the end.)

isn't the purpose of that pipe to provide air to facilitate the catalytic reaction, which would not longer be useful once the cats are removed?

I just took an extended bread (20 mins.) to install the filter...sometimes I can be impatient

sorry, and extended BREAK...I couldn't edit my post for some reason



and is the filter assembly supposed to be supported by something, or does it just rest on the stuff below it?

the kits usually come with somekinda hardware to hold it up. the hks kit uses the rear airbox bolt and a bracket goes down to the bottom as well



mike

It just rests on the stuff below it. There's no brackets or anything for that kit. The thing about the air pump is that the RB Pre-silencer has a place for the air pump to connect to it (I thought it was a type of cat https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR ) Anyways, that's my $.02.

ok, now I'm confused...anyone else care to shed some light on this?

u sure that is for the air pump and not for the secondary ports ?

so, do I need the airpump while using an rb presilencer, on an s4, to properly operate the secondary ports?

you are supposed to leave that pipe on. it does 2 things, open the 6 ports, and allow air from the air pump to the cat. there is a check valve in the pipe so its ok if the airpump isnt there



mike

thank you, oh fountain of knowledge

Oh ****. I took that pipe off. So are my 6 ports not opening?

right, without that backpressure pipe connected, your 6 ports are not working

Well, I guess I'm gonna wire them open then. I coulda swore I saw a tutorial on that around here somewhere...

Well, couldn't find the tutorial. Anyone know where it is?

nope, you wanna know how to wire the ports open?



mike

so if i took off the backpressure pipe it would not benefit me? but would it help alot if i wired the 6th ports open?



keegun

Definitely.

ok if you look on the passenger side of the engine,

http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7...2/IMG_1487.JPG you will see cylinders on each end of the intake manifold, the actuators (cylinders) hold the ports closed, so take em off and turn in the other way, wire open boom done.



mike

hey, that picture looks familiar :smirk:

Alright, I know I"m bringing up an old subject, but what the hell. I started taking off the actuators, but the intake manifold was still on my car, so it was a bitch. Should I just take it apart, and do it with it lying on my floor, or is there an easier way? And one more thing, how many bolts are on the actuators, just two bolts and two screws? Or is there one I can't see?

Alright, I know I"m bringing up an old subject, but what the hell. I started taking off the actuators, but the intake manifold was still on my car, so it was a bitch. Should I just take it apart, and do it with it lying on my floor, or is there an easier way? And one more thing, how many bolts are on the actuators, just two bolts and two screws? Or is there one I can't see? [/quote]

the actuators are held on by two nuts. There are two studs protruding from the LIM, in the image above you can stil see the studs present and the nuts are threaded on, the twist tie is actually going from the linkage arm to one of the studs.



Once you remove the two 10mm nuts, the actuator can slide off. They might stick a bit just tap em a bit and they should come loose... they do have a gasket.



note, each one has 2 10mm nuts holding it on, there will be 4 totoal for two actuators.



You don't have to remove those screws, if you want to remove the sleeves and linkage altogether then you will want to remove the screws but you have to remove the LIM to do this anyways since the sleeves are in the side housings of the engine.

oh and by the way....with that ACV plate...do any vacuum/pressure line need to be blocked off?

nope.



on a T2 I believe there is an issue with one vacuum line that used to go to the ACV or something which some people end up making a hole on the blockoff plate and adding a nipple for it.

Alright, I'll take a whack at it tomorrow. It wasn't budging which was the problem i was having. And those are just normal twist ties? Like for baggies? If so, this is gonna take me about 10 minutes. :bigthumg: