NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

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-   2nd Generation Specific (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/)
-   -   After 5-olug Swap, Added 4-piston Calipers (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/after-5-olug-swap-added-4-piston-calipers-19321/)

Baldy 06-19-2003 07:53 AM

Ok, after adding the 4-pistons calipers from a GXL, I was told I need the check valve on the MC. Do I also need the GXL booster? I have one available to purchase, but I'm not sure if I need it.



So, what exactly do I need?

banzaitoyota 06-19-2003 08:10 AM

I would use the ENTIRE brakebooster,mastercylinder assembly from a GXL

Nemesis 06-19-2003 09:41 AM

If I am upgrading my GTu from single piston to four piston calipers, I should change out the booster and MC also?

banzaitoyota 06-19-2003 09:46 AM

yes

Nemesis 06-19-2003 09:58 AM

Got any extras laying around?

banzaitoyota 06-19-2003 10:01 AM

Unfortunately , no. I need the last set I have for the Base upgrade

sunshine 06-19-2003 10:05 AM

Contact Kevin at rotaryresurrection He always has a ton of stuff available.



hypntyz@charter.net

Baldy 06-19-2003 11:15 AM

thanks for the info, banzai. Does anyone know what kind of price these things should run? I know a guy with the parts, just making sure he doesn't overcharge me.



also, any idea what level of difficulty swapping these would be?

JerryLH3 06-19-2003 08:41 PM

The master cylinder is no biggy. With the proper tools and a pressure bleeder you're done in under an hour. I've never swapped a brake booster, but that should not be hard as well, since you alreay will have the MC off.



I bought a new master cylinder for $70 shipped from www.nopionline.com



It is brand new in the box, made by Tokico. Even has the MAZDA part number on the box.

Baldy 06-20-2003 07:28 AM

cool, I'll offer him no more than $50 for both parts (used)



I looked over the removal of both items during breakfast this morning (in Haynes manual). The seem pretty simple, like remove brake lines from MC, remove 2 bolts, it comes off. Booster is like a tube, and 4 bolts under dash. I may be off a tad, but it doesn't seem difficult at all.

pengaru 06-20-2003 08:16 AM


Originally Posted by Baldy' date='Jun 20 2003, 12:28 PM
cool, I'll offer him no more than $50 for both parts (used)



I looked over the removal of both items during breakfast this morning (in Haynes manual). The seem pretty simple, like remove brake lines from MC, remove 2 bolts, it comes off. Booster is like a tube, and 4 bolts under dash. I may be off a tad, but it doesn't seem difficult at all.

I'm sure you know this already, but be careful with the brake fluid. it's evil.



especially in that area, the F harness goes right under there, my MC leaked over winter while my car sat waiting for the new engine... when I discovered it the paint had already been all messed. To make things worse, when I pulled apart the F harness to strip out the unused wires, I found *alot* more brake fluid that had been accumulating in the harness loom all winter from the leak, what a mess.



I hate glycol based brake fluid.

Baldy 06-20-2003 08:31 AM

Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I can get a turkey baster or something to suck as much fluid out as possible before I try to remove it.

Apex13B 06-20-2003 09:20 PM

You'll need to bench bleed the master cylinder too.


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