its relatively stock, besides a cone filter and removal of all emmissions. chassis has 110k miles on it, with a new engine dropped in about 3k miles ago. here are the problem im having:



engine stalls if i don't give it gas. when its cold it idles around 2.7k rpm. but then once i drive around for 2 minutes, then let off the gas (at a stop light for example) the engine will shut off. then when i restart it, it turns off again immediately unless i give it constant gas. imagine what a pain in the ass it is to drive around in the city. imagine this: approaching a turn at 30 mph in the city, you begin to break at the start of the turn, but by letting off the gas, your engine shuts off. now you've lost power steering. not a lot of fun.

could it be the TPS? or does it sound like a vac line leak?



thanks in advance guys. any help is appreciated. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.png

hell it could be both, i'm assuming you have block off plates for all the parts u took off...that would cause vacuum leak. also use a multimeter to check your tps, i have the same problem. my idle is jacked on startup so i'm gettin a new tps.

sounds like a vacuum leak

if its a vac line line, wuts steps should i do to rectify the problem? i'm sure this has been covered already, so someone please direct me to the post/faq i should read over. thanks again.

well i heard an awesome way to find leaks is taking a vaccum tube long enough to probe around the engine bay using it as a stethoscope. the only problem is that your car has to be running, so you might need a hand with that.

hrm, stethoscope you say.... well i wouldnt know what to do with that, and i dun think i really want a stethoscope magnifying the sound of my engine, its pretty loud as it is.



any other suggestions please?

i found my shitty idle by systematically zip-tying all my vacuum lines, that still didnt work. Then i found that the clamp for my inlet tube on the AFM was rotted and not, well...clamping. RG Rays turbo clamp to the rescue.



Try adjusting the Tps first, and from what i remember you live in queens, there is a shop in elmont that can help you

If your thermal wax pellet isn't working properly, that may cause stalling.

thermal wax pellet? sounds like a hot dish i feed a lab rat.



ugh, anyone live around queens, i'll pay you to fix my car!

(in money or sex, your choice)

(btw, im a guy, so that would be gay sex)



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

haha well i heard rob is borderline......hehe

The thermal wax pellet tells the car when it's warmed up and adjusts the idle accordingly.

i did a code check using a wire in that green thingy by the battery.



got codes: 11, 25, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34?(can't remember for sure, maybe not), 40 and 41.



the first one (11) is: intake air thermosensor (engine); so my intake air temp fixed at 20C (68F)

i guess that means my car's sensor is fuxed, so its defaulting to a 68F reading. seeing how its a good 90F here in queens, that could be a casue of a fuel mix problem or something.



all the other ones - save another- are solenoid valve problems. so apparently its the solenoid valve that is causing most of the idle stalling problem.



the other (40) is: auxiliary port valve. i'm guessing those are the 5th and 6th sleeves, which have been removed, so would show as an error. please correct me if i am wrong on that assumption.



all in all it looks to be a thermosensor and that blasted solenoid valve. how can i remedy these problems? please give me any advice you guys can.



Thanks for all your help guys, really appreciate it. i don't know what i'd do without you all.

The thermosensor is located by the water neck, behind the alternator.



This will cause the motor to run so rich that the exhaust TIPS will glow red. It happened to me

whrere can i get a replacement thermosensor and wuts the easiest way to replace it?



please direct me to a faq if there is one. thanks. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

any help? please?



how do i fix the solenoid valve. and how do i fix the thermosensor?

Valve? i dunno, i havent had any problems with it. You told that the ACV was removed. I suspect that is why the check light is on.



Thermosensor, take off alternator take sensor out, and put new sensor in