i am looking to get a 88 conv for a guy in town he said and i quote "The car need fuel injection. I think. It gets 2 much gas" what could be the prob and could it be a easy fix im not a noob to the 12a but the 13b kinda throws me for a loop any ideas?

is it flooding?

um i think you need to go look at it...

ok so i went and looked at the car yesterday it has 211k on it and with a little coaxing i got it to start and run the car runs but it runs really rough even after it warms up but it will idle on its own. smells like it is running really rich and it smokes. the guy told me that that was the first time the car has ran in 2 years so im thinking bad gas could be part of the problem but deff not all my 86 had a vac leak that caused it to run rough im wondering if it could be the same this time any ideas i hoping to actually get the car today.

Do a compression test. If it looks good, great! Tell the guy the car's a piece of crap and the motor's toast, and talk him down on the price. Take it home, clean out the gas tank, fix vacuum leaks, and enjoy your top-down fall season.

im actually getting the car in on a trade for a computer im really happy bout that but im not sure how to do a compression test and other quick fixes on what it could be?

ok i got my car today im so excited....any way here is what it does you start the car it turns over about 4 times and starts but i have to keep babying the gas to keep it running it is running really rich and if i let it die and try to start it back it floods and wont start back also it smokes blue smoke (i think it is from just running rich tho) so any thing i can try?

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak, very common simple problem. There are a bunch of vacuum hoses, so it may seem daunting at first tracking it down if you're not used to it. Start at the intake hose and make your way to the engine, follow the path of air, and look for anywhere a leak might be happening. If there's nothing obvious like a loose or broken hose, there are several methods of tracking down a vacuum leak (I'm can't remember them, there should be lots of results in a search though).



Try not to shut the car off until it has reached full operating temperature. Shutting it off before them will most assuredly flood the engine. Even if you have to sit there with your foot babying the gas, let it warm up before shutting it off. I'm pretty sure the smoke it from the fuel (I thought white=coolant, black=oil, gray/blue=fuel, but someone else correct if I'm wrong).



FYI, these cars run pretty rich all the time, it's normal.

have a look at the coolant temp sensor too, its in the back of the water pump housing, under the alternator. this sensor has a huge impact on how much fuel the engine gets.



the factory shop manuals are on the internet too, foxed.ca

ok heres an up date i got it to idle after it warms up finealy and i actually drove it to the gas station today but heres the problem it has no power it will go but lacks major power. i had a 86 that had a problem with a fuel injector prob that acted the same way is there a way to check the injectors or how is there a way to check if i have a bad rotor. my thinking is one of 3 things either i have a bad injector no fire to one of the housings or bad seals in one of the housings where should i start? i put a new batt in it today as well as replaced the spark plugs

pull out your trusty multimeter and check the injectors just to see if you got power to all of them compression test both front and rear rotors and then post numbers or find if the numbers are good

allright ill do that this afternoon when i get off work and we can go from there

well guys i have narrowed it down to ignition any one have and spare ignition packs they would like to sell im not getting fire on the rear rotor with the combo of a bad fuel injector so if any one has some coil packs with modules i would greatly appreciate it being that they are 389$ from advance auto let me know thanks.



Gregg

All this work and you could have yourself a blown motor. Its the same symptoms that you described. Bad idle, blue smoke, dies when you let off the gas. I hope its not but it sure sounds like it.

well it could also be a combo of things too

how hard is it to do a t2 swap what all is involved?

well im sad to say i have no compression on the rear rotor :( is there any way that i can try to get compression back before i pull the motor?

for a t2 swap you need the entire drivetrain meaning diff drive shaft and everything with the engine and trans also if you dont already have 5 lug and 4 piston calipers then you need those too and of course the t2 hood unless you are going with a FMIC