Ok, so I don't really know all that much about cars. I know a lot of numbers and statistics on cars. I know a lot of theory on how they work. I know how to drive and I autocross regularly. But when the hood of a car is open, I've pretty much been clueless. I learned how to change my oil 6 months ago, and I peformed my first mod (ECU reflash, didn't even have to open the hood) about a year ago. I think it's time I learned a little more.



I bought a N/A FC with a blown motor for $100. I got it from a friend who got it without really getting much info from the guy who sold it to him, except that it had no compression. Also, supposedly the transmission was recently worked on. So basically I have no idea on the status of mods and anything else that may or may not be working. The springs were cut, and the car was so low that I couldn't get a jack under it.



My goal with this car is for it to be a street legal track car. Basically I'm only going to drive it on the streets to and from races. I'm going to replace my Legacy at the autocross with it, and I'll do a few track days, and eventually I'll build it up for road racing.



Here's the car when I bought it:

Attachment 20566



I got a friend to trailer it to my garage:

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I got a shortblock with compression (from Molotovman on here), that I'm currently working on swapping in. It was from an automatic, so I'm going to need to swap the flywheel and I'm assuming the counterweight as well.



Pic of the motor:

Attachment 20568





So to start the swap process, I had to use the spare tire jack from my Legacy to jack it up high enough to get the hydraulic jack under it. I had 2 friends helping me out. None of us have done a swap before, so at times our minimal combined knowledge let us down. Thankfully the guy I bought the motor from tossed in a Haynes Repair Manual for free, so I've been using that extensively. Anyways we went through the process of draining the oil and coolant, removing all the stuff that's attached to the engine, etc, etc. The only thing still attached to the engine is the transmission. Hopefully I can actually get the engine out tomorrow, it depends how long a header swap takes for a Ford Focus.



The car as it sits now:

Attachment 20569





Ok, so I guess I should start posting where I need help.



I'd like to identify this muffler, the tip says OPAK on the top. Does anyone know what type of muffler it is, and is it any good (performance wise)?

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Rest of the exhaust system. Cat-back appears aftermarket, but low quality.

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I was told this is an aftermarket radiator. The hole by the radiator cap is threaded, I presume for a temperature sensor for an electronic cooling fan. Since no such fan is present, I'd like to plug the hole. Suggestions?

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That's pretty much what I need help on.

Here are a few more tidbits about this bundle of joy:



Springs were cut... by a lot. On the ground parts of the car had no more than 1 inch of ground clearance. There are scratches under the car where the thing has been scraping. The scratches are basically the only bits of rust on the frame. I guess I'll journey over to the suspension forum to research aftermarket suspension systems.

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The odometer is wrong. It shows 201k, but an educated guess would be closer to 300k on what the previous owner said. It's ok because I don't really need to know how far I'm going, since it's just going to be to the track and back. I'm guessing it's because of this:

Attachment 20564



The speedometer cable appears to be missing in action. As long as the tach works, I can figure out my speed.

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Well that sums up my project. I'll update this as I go and get myself into some sort of greasy mess I can't solve on my own. Yes, I posted this on the 'evil forum' as well.

Hey, its Leo. I hadn't seen a picture of that rad before, but now that I do, it might be stock, since the car is an 88 (I never had an 88, and my 86, 87, and 90 all had different rads), but the hose elbow on the left looks stock, and the fact that it's plastic also makes me think that it's stock, now that I see the pictures.

So what's the hole for?

Possibly a temp sensor. If there is a temp. sensor on the bottom of the rad, though, just plug the top hole.

Also, that hole could be an air bleed.

That looks like the stock radiator in my 88, and if it is a stocker thats where the coolant level sensor goes.

yeah, see, my FC's have all had different rads than that. My 86 GXL has the rad cap at the warter neck, above the water pump, so it's a bit different...

Where should I go about getting one?

Here are some brake pads I found in the car. Does anyone know what brand/type of pads they are?



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i must commend the fact that with such little knowledge of how things work under the hood of a car, you really do have a lot of heart for throwing yourself into swapping motors already, considering the fact that some people would be apprehensive of doing such a thing so quickly by themselves. much respect. good luck on the project. peace

^^^ I thought the same thing as that guy https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



How old are you BTW?



I can't imagine how you haven't dived into something like this before, you're not afraid of getting dirty apparently, and you like cars.......



I didn't think any stock radiators had a cap on top and on the filler neck like this one, then again, I didn't think any aftermarket ones had the bleed screw?



Yes that is for the coolant level sensor, you should be able to plug it (might make the coolant buzzer go off though?), or just get the sensor, if the wire is still around there somewhere, theres only one wire to that thing, that would be best and easiest, but not the cheapest. Though you might find a kick me down sensor from someone?



Good luck, have fun learning.... these are really easy cars to work on, but still ask lots of questions when in doubt, they are different machines than normal and you shouldn't ask piston engine guys much https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/cool.png

I'm 20. I haven't done this before mostly because I haven't had the opportunity. My family has always bought new cars on the premise that "buying a used car is buying someone else's problem." So my family has never been very mechanically inclined. When my friend told me that he'd hand the 7 over for $100, I couldn't pass up the opportunity after doing a little research.



Anyways, I'm going out to the garage for some quality time with the 7. On today's schedule is to remove the power steering, and A/C compressor and hoses. Then I'll continue with the removal of the engine, which my next step is to unbolt the tranny. I'm not expecting to be able to get the engine out today, but I'll see what happens.

Ok, I'm now 2 hoses away from hoisting the engine. Does anyone know what size wrench is needed to take off the oil cooler hoses?

Video update:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtksMieuivI



I've got some kinks to fix, but at least it starts!

Good job on finally getting it running.

Sweet, good job on the quick turn around! I also autocross and all i can tell you is focus on the suspention. Example #1: when you get extra money save it for a good set of adjustible struts, i like K-Sport good parts for a good price. As you know C compound tires are always a plus, Hancook makes nice tires for a good price. Second bit of advice is check with your states emmitions laws befor you modify the engine. The only thing i would do in your case is lose the fan bolted to the water pump and replace it with an electric fan, not that much need for a exhaust header but they are nice but loose the dual tip exhaust system and replace it with full 2 1/2" pipe from the thermal reactor to the rear bumper. "uncork the bitch" oh, lock the 5 link rear suspention. good luck, you have a good start!

Thanks for the shout-out on the video!



Suspension and exhaust are a great idea after the GTU is running right. I would suggest a Racing Beat header, RB presilencer, and Corskport cat-back if you want to go single, and a full RB for dual.