My FC (87 NA) has been sitting for a few years, needs a rebuild. I'm making it my winter project, need some help in a few areas.



Rebuild or Buy new (motor)?



What else do i need to replace? I already plan to replace the radiator and your basic hoses, alternator, battery, belts, the tires. What else mechanically should i be looking at?



What cat back should i look into thats not incredibly pricey? I plan to port and polish the stock manifolds.



Injectors?



I'm new to RX7's in the sense of actually working on one, any suggestions would be awsome.

Just for background to my budget, im only making 7.50/h at Advance Auto at around 30hrs a week.

Hey I have a Racing Beat header thats used if you want.

Im also parting out a 88 convertible if you need any parts.

o man you must be say... my age... lol i want to do a rebuild of some sort my self but parts might cost you a grand or so.... I dont really know just a blunt guess (i make 8/hour at bed bath and beyond)

Clean the injectors are RC engineering, no need to upgrade unless you have a BP or PP in mind. Replace the fuel filter, check lines/fuel pump too. Replace all the fluids in the car, diff/tranny ect. Replace the bushings/shocks/struts..

im pretty new to 7's my self but your project car just might be flooded how many miles?? If your run a search on unflooding you will find a ton of info on how to get your car running.



p.s. do a compression on your motor anything lower than (im not sure) 100psi should you look in to a rebuild

We had been doing the "pull the fuse fix the flood" trick for a few months, tried atf, etc, its shot.



I'm 18. Not looking to buy the headers yet, gotta bring her to life first. I have tried till im blue in the face to find a company to let me finance a motor but i cant find one.



I also have NO credit history, but im trying to get a credit card for parts lol.

um actualy its pretty simple to unflood all you do is pull the egi computer fues out of the engine compartment on the drivers side.... i crank it of three times for a good two seconds each... then i put the fuse back in and it starts right over... so easy so nice.... but flooding may not be the problem... you may not be getting fuel... when i got my car it didn't run and i went through a gas tank... fuel filter and lots of starting fluid to finaly get mine to run.... mine actualy sat for about 6 to 7 years though good luck

The car was my dads, he hasnt had time/money to fix it. The apex seals are gone, i can get away with a rebuild but i dont know each part i actually need and where to get the whole kit at the best price.

Nopistons Store sells rebuild kits cheap. Give your parents the cash and have them use their credit card. Or have a friend charge it and give them the cash

I searched rebuild in the store and didnt find it. Is it all the parts (seals and gaskets etc).

Atkins rebuild kit

checking it out now. what would be involved is i , say, wanted a 20B in this baby?

20B conversion is a BIG project. Talk to J9Fd3s about it

so i need:



Atkins Viton Oil Seals

86-88 Atkins Rotary 13B Gasket Set

(6)2mm 2 Piece Apex Seal Atkins Rotary



and



(6)2mm Apex Seal Springs ?



As for 20B, im getting way ahead of myself.

We have this stuff at work, carbon be gone kinda stuff, think im going to dump some in the engine, hand turn it, next bottle, etc for about two weeks and see if it helps any.



Can i use a normal compression tester on a rotary? If so, whats a target psi to indicate fine/going/gone?

I've heard a minimum of 85 is acceptable.



quoted from The Camel:



here are the steps to the compression test.



1) make sure you have a good battery

2) pull the EFI fuse

3) pull both leading or both trailing plugs or all of them ( but do not mix and match the plug holes you are getting the readings from, they must be out of the same holes, both leading or both trailing

4) install compression tester in first hole, there are two ways you can do this to get the correct reading. Most gauges have a peak hold button on the side, you can either hold this button, or remove the schrader valve in the bottom of the gauge hose

5) prop the throttle open or have it held to the floor so that there is no restriction for the air that you will be measuring.

6) crank the engine over and observe the gauge this is easier with a second person or a starter button, if you do not know what a starter button is or does find the second person to help

7) watch for the needle to jump as the engine is cranked over, make sure you get at least 6 revolutions of the motor

8) record the readings and move the compression testor to the next rotor and repeat step 6 and 7

you should have 3 distinct needle jumps reading in the 100's or higher

9) post your compression readings for everyone to see, you will know if there is a blown apex seal(s) from the reading

Cool ill get to that SOON. Nopistons store has metal oil control rings and oil seals do i need both of these sets?