7 Won't start plz help!
#11
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Jan. 03 2002,19:42
the idle and power deliver is starting to get better. I torqued down the bolts on the BAC and the upper to lower intake manifolds. But it still isn't running perfect. There is still a vacuum leak, and i can't ******* :madgo: figure it out. I have capped off all the vacuum lines checked and rechecked them 10000x times. I can't hear where its coming from because; one my clutch fan is too damn loud, my cone filter makes the same sucking sound, and my exhaust is very loud, even at idle. I tried spraying **** and even using propane, i can't find it. There are not that many placed either,since i have no emission pieces. I'm going to check my vacuum pressure tommorrow w/ a gauge. Does anyone know what it should be at, and if it changes w/ taking off vacuum using **** i.e. ac&cv?
#12
ya its still has a vacuum leak somewhere. but gettting better. I took it apart( for the damn 3rd time) and i i had left some of the old gasket on. i figured its got be that unevenness, but damn that **** is so hard to get off. I pic at it for hours and get like 1/100 of it off. Also i heard that i need to keep the Crankcase Breather, when removing the solenoids and rack, wtf is that? Is it the black piece that plugs into the wiring harness and has 2 big vacuum lines on it? And there are no cracks on intake. Im starting to get very frustrated bout to snap.
#13
I think i figured it out. Man u guys are really gonna laugh at me. I forgot to put one of the nuts back on that tightens the TB to the dyanmic chamber. It was underneath so i didn't see it. I also didn't torque down the bolt and nuts on the upper to lower intake manifolds, this time which squeezed out alot of the RTV gasket maker. I gonna let it really seal since its ******* cold up here. Then torque it down once the RTV turns into the gasket. I also did a little mod. There was a radiator hose that ran to the BAC, then to the TB, and off to the block. Instead i ran it directly to the block to clean **** up and make it simple.
#14
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Jan. 06 2002,17:38
I think i figured it out. Man u guys are really gonna laugh at me. I forgot to put one of the nuts back on that tightens the TB to the dyanmic chamber. It was underneath so i didn't see it. I also didn't torque down the bolt and nuts on the upper to lower intake manifolds, this time which squeezed out alot of the RTV gasket maker. I gonna let it really seal since its ******* cold up here. Then torque it down once the RTV turns into the gasket. I also did a little mod. There was a radiator hose that ran to the BAC, then to the TB, and off to the block. Instead i ran it directly to the block to clean **** up and make it simple.
When you remove the coolant going to the TB make sure that the fast idle cam is either removed or disabled. Otherwise your idle is going to stay at 1500-2000 RPM.
#15
Originally Posted by 13BAce' date='Jan. 06 2002,15:09
It's probably better to just run the hose from the block directly to the water pump. That will; let you remove the BAC valve as well.
When you remove the coolant going to the TB make sure that the fast idle cam is either removed or disabled. Otherwise your idle is going to stay at 1500-2000 RPM.
When you remove the coolant going to the TB make sure that the fast idle cam is either removed or disabled. Otherwise your idle is going to stay at 1500-2000 RPM.
Which removes coolant flow to the TB; removes the secondary butterflys in the TB and the rod; and links the coolant hose directly under the upper intake manifold straight to the block. And it also removes almost everything on the TB
All i need now is some JB Weld to patch up the holes from the secondary butterfly rod.
I also removed the BAC. What all do i need to do, just unplug, remove & plug the holes? Is there any draw backs/gains?
Man my under my hood is lookin bare. Only thing left is to get rid of is the OMP & MAF, when i get haltech ofcourse :sigh: .
#16
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Jan. 07 2002,20:04
[quote name='13BAce' date='Jan. 06 2002,15:09']It's probably better to just run the hose from the block directly to the water pump. That will; let you remove the BAC valve as well.
When you remove the coolant going to the TB make sure that the fast idle cam is either removed or disabled. Otherwise your idle is going to stay at 1500-2000 RPM.
When you remove the coolant going to the TB make sure that the fast idle cam is either removed or disabled. Otherwise your idle is going to stay at 1500-2000 RPM.
Which removes coolant flow to the TB; removes the secondary butterflys in the TB and the rod; and links the coolant hose directly under the upper intake manifold straight to the block. And it also removes almost everything on the TB
All i need now is some JB Weld to patch up the holes from the secondary butterfly rod.
I also removed the BAC. What all do i need to do, just unplug, remove & plug the holes? Is there any draw backs/gains?
Man my under my hood is lookin bare. Only thing left is to get rid of is the OMP & MAF, when i get haltech ofcourse :sigh: .[/quote]
You could always just tap the holes and plug them up with NPT plugs instead of using JB weld. Yes, just make a blockoff plate for the BAC valve. It will make everything look alot cleaner.
#19
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Jan. 07 2002,20:33
thxs. what does the BAC do anyway? and how did coolant flow control the fast idle cam?
Heres a link to the TB MOD:
K2RD
Heres a link to the TB MOD:
K2RD
#20
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Jan. 07 2002,20:39
Do i need to keep this piece? I see in comes in contact w/ the TB cam thingy. The fast idle cam and spring were underneath it.