I just replaced my stock mufflers with the racing beat mufflers, this coupled with the racing beat Y pipe, presilencer, and header, has left me without sufficient backpressure to open up my aux ports. I don't have an air pump installed so the common methods I've found on the web which involve using the air pressure from the air pump to drive the actuators is out of the question. I found some rotary solenoids: http://www.shindengen.com/content.cfm?categoryid=11 which could probably be coupled directly to the aux port cams eliminating the actuators altogether, and I was wondering if any of you have tried using this method to control them, or a similar one. (I wonder if one could tap into the same circuit that triggers the over-rev buzzer to sense a lower RPM and trigger a relay which controls two of these rotary solenoids to open the aux ports? of course, an e6k or similar would have aux outputs perfect for this sort of thing.)



on a different note, even with the aux ports not opening, destroyed a 99 civic si ricer on the way home from dinner https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png not bad for a gxl w/108k miles, rebuild coming up soon though, seal/gasket kits are in the mail.

There would be a way to activate your electric actuators and I think it could work. By using the signal going to the relief solenoid valve and a relay to reverse the signal because the relief solenoid valve is activated only under 3600 rpm, so when it's not activated the actuators would be activated. The only thing to verify is this theory. By connecting a lamp on the relief solenoid valve that you could see while driving you can verify if the signal acts in this manner before making the mod. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



BTW, the electric actuators would draw too much current to use a signal from the ECU alone, you need a relay anyway and the 12-volt used to power the actuators needs to be present only when switched to ignition.



I hope it could help. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

I haven't done mine yet, But was thinking of using something like the TRUNK SOLENOIDS that are available everywhere. They will pull anywhere from 7 lbs all the way up to 50 lbs depending who's you buy. Mount the soleniod directly where the vacuum diaphram is on the stock actuators.



A Relay and RPM switch could then be used to activate. If they pull too much current or get hot, A Resistor could be added to reduce the pulling pressure and add a load. This should work...



As I said I haven't done mine... but am going to. I have a couple of extra actuators and am going to cut the ends off the vacuum diaphram to do this.

What is the year of your rx7, because they don't use backpressure for the aux. ports after '88. They're activated using a 6PI solenoid valve and vacuum from intake.

What is the year of your rx7, because they don't use backpressure for the aux. ports after '88. They're activated using a 6PI solenoid valve and vacuum from intake.[/quote]

Actually 89+'s use pressure from the air pump to open them.

What is the year of your rx7, because they don't use backpressure for the aux. ports after '88. They're activated using a 6PI solenoid valve and vacuum from intake.[/quote]

I have an 87 GXL, so it's run off of backpressure. The car was quicker with the stock mufflers than it is now with the racing beat mufflers (on the top end anyways) just because of the aux ports.

Sorry...you're right about the pressure from the air pump, my memory serves me bad. But it uses a signal from the ECU to activate the 6PI solenoid valve anyway.

Did you try wiring them opened to see what power you gained from your RB exhaust and header? It would be interesting.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

Did you try wiring them opened to see what power you gained from your RB exhaust and header? It would be interesting.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif[/quote]

well, I've had the header, presilencer, and Y pipe for a while now, with the aux ports still opening (at least some) with the stock mufflers, and the performance gains from the RB exhaust were significant. One thing that made a huge difference after that was cutting out the cover of the air box, you could really feel the aux ports opening in the high rpm with the improved breathing. I've since put on the RB mufflers and an HKS power flow 'intake'... it seems stronger everywhere but the top end, which I'm sure is because the aux ports are not opening anymore. I will probably wire them open sometime soon to experiment... but I did that once in the past and really didnt like not having any low end torque for driving around town. I have the RB aluminum flywheel as it is, so the loss of low end is really noticable and makes it a bitch to drive in town.

Did you try wiring them opened to see what power you gained from your RB exhaust and header? It would be interesting.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif[/quote]

well, I've had the header, presilencer, and Y pipe for a while now, with the aux ports still opening (at least some) with the stock mufflers, and the performance gains from the RB exhaust were significant. One thing that made a huge difference after that was cutting out the cover of the air box, you could really feel the aux ports opening in the high rpm with the improved breathing. I've since put on the RB mufflers and an HKS power flow 'intake'... it seems stronger everywhere but the top end, which I'm sure is because the aux ports are not opening anymore. I will probably wire them open sometime soon to experiment... but I did that once in the past and really didnt like not having any low end torque for driving around town. I have the RB aluminum flywheel as it is, so the loss of low end is really noticable and makes it a bitch to drive in town.[/quote]

I thought about cutting out that cover but didn't know if it would be worth while, so I was waiting until I'd install a kone filter directly on the AFM.

Did you try wiring them opened to see what power you gained from your RB exhaust and header? It would be interesting.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif[/quote]

well, I've had the header, presilencer, and Y pipe for a while now, with the aux ports still opening (at least some) with the stock mufflers, and the performance gains from the RB exhaust were significant. One thing that made a huge difference after that was cutting out the cover of the air box, you could really feel the aux ports opening in the high rpm with the improved breathing. I've since put on the RB mufflers and an HKS power flow 'intake'... it seems stronger everywhere but the top end, which I'm sure is because the aux ports are not opening anymore. I will probably wire them open sometime soon to experiment... but I did that once in the past and really didnt like not having any low end torque for driving around town. I have the RB aluminum flywheel as it is, so the loss of low end is really noticable and makes it a bitch to drive in town.[/quote]

I thought about cutting out that cover but didn't know if it would be worth while, so I was waiting until I'd install a kone filter directly on the AFM.[/quote]

It helped alot in 1st and 2nd, but the top of 3rd-5th were weaker, I believe at the higher speeds with the airbox in tact there is a slight ram-air effect, cutting out the cover hurt this, but the top of 1st and 2nd gear were extremely stronger with the top cut. Best would most likely be an HKS or K&N high flow unit replacing the airbox, but fabricating a (cold air) box to go around the high flow filter with some large ducts routing fresh air from the front of the car, so you can get the raim air effect. Of course, this is really just a big deal if you're NA like me https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Oh, it also got a bit louder with the cover cut open, and I had a K&N drop in filter when using the stock box btw.

Wired the aux ports open today by removing the acuators and putting some twist ties to good use. It pulls like hell > 6k, all the way to 8k where I force myself to shift, but it hurts like hell since it's still producing gobs of power compared to the rest of the rpm range, feels like a turbo kicking in. But with the aux ports wired open everything less than ~5k is plain shitty compared to aux ports closed. There are probably major gains possible on NA 13B's just by tuning the intake, variable length intake runners for instance 787B style would be pimp https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png When I do the rebuild I'll have to find a VDI from a later 2nd gen to replace my extension housing and port/polish the rest of the intake. If I get a later lower manifold would I be able to convert to vacuum activated aux ports? anyone?

I was wrong when I was talking about vacuum activated aux. ports, I was mistaking with something else (dac corrected me on this), they are activated with pressure from the air pump, 6PI solenoid valve and a ECU output. But it gave me an idea for something else, I'll be back with explanation later, when I'll be doing tests.



BTW, I guess the later 2nd gen was 15hp stronger partially due to the new intake.