I was inmformed recently that i can get 2 degrees witht he stock suspension in the front by rotating the strut top 90 degrees. How exactly do I go about doing this.



And the problem I had with the bubbles inthe oil, I found out it's from the turbo. I might work at perfect power https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif and before they did strictly porsches he did rotary too and he told me it's from the turbo.

the strut isnt centered in the strut top, so you can rotate the strut top to get more negative camber



mike

do i rotate it 90 degrees clockwise or counter clockwise (for the left and right side)?

you want the strut to be closest to the inside rear of the engine bay as you can get it.



mike

Forget it. Whoever told you that is lost. The FC has a little bit of positive camber from the factory. Rotating the strut tops can yield some negative camber as well as adjust the caster. The FSM says how to do it and how much is changed by doing it.



I have the JIC FLT-A2 suspension with the camber plates. The most I can get up front is 1.9 degrees. One side will get a little bit more, but 1.9 degrees is the most both can go and stay even. I found this out be getting the car cornerweighted and aligned to my specs at a local racecar prep shop. They usually only play with high end Porsche stuff so most people think they won't do other cars. But they knew what I wanted and they tried to get as much front negative camber dialed-in as possible.

I think I mentioned it before, but referenced the grassroots motorsports article, just read it.

http://clubrx.org/grm88tii/Page_2.htm



I may have mentioned 2 degrees but it was all from memory, reading the article it looks like they don't mention how much camber you can get, just the caster... and the strut top only affects the caster.





Mazda's RX-7 uses a strut-type independent front suspension with coil springs and stabilizer bar, The only thing this suspension lacked was sufficient camber and caster adjustments for competition. Our first step was to adjust tire front suspension to set as much negative camber and positive caster as possible.



The RX-7 shock absorber's top rubber mounting block is eccentric; by re-positioning it, one can slightly adjust camber and caster. To do this, raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Remove the rubber cap on the suspension tower over the shock absorber, and remove the four nuts holding the shock's top mounting block to the suspension tower. The dot indicator is usually pointed toward the inside front of the engine compartment. Turn the mounting block until the dot indicator is pointed to the inside rear of the engine compartment. This will increase caster by 30' to 45', changing it from tire factory setting of 4degrees 40' to about 5degrees 30'.



Next, finger tighten the top shock mounting block nuts. Now, loosen the ball joint to lower control arm bolts and nuts, the knuckle-to-shock absorber bolts and nuts, and the two bolts holding the rear bushing of the front lower control arms. Then pull outward at the bottom of the tire and push in at the top. While you're holding that under light tension, tighten all the bolts and nuts to the following torque values: ball joint to lower arm, 69 to 86 ft-lb; knuckle to shock absorber, 69 to 86 ft lb; rear bushing of the front lower control arms to cross member, 43 to 54 ft-lb; and shock mounting block to suspension tower, 17 to 22 it lb. This process will put all of the factory tolerances in your favor, and give you maximum legal negative camber.

somethings wrong with your car? i had 2.5degrees on both sides with the camber plates in the middle



mike

Which camber plates do you have? Mine don't really seem to allow much movement. I can see how they can be machined out to create more room. Mine have plenty of metal that could be removed.

If you wanted them machined out, I could do it for you at my work. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

k2rd, they can make the actual strut shaft hit the shock tower



mike