Hi all!! I just joined the forums and have been reading through all this amazing amount of Info that so far has been very helpfull. I recently picked up a 1987 GTU N/A that has been sitting for 5 years ($400 and running!). 190k miles (a bit high!) but i have determined the oil seals are blown (tons of oil smoke while running never goes away + gasoline smell in oil) so im attempting my first rotary rebuild! Drives okay tranny shifts good wheels and tires are in good condition! There is tons of info on that everywhere, the only thing I didnt really see 2 much of (unless my searching was wrong!) was re-doing the interior of the car. This one happens to have metal for the driver and passengers feet. Could just throw a mat down, but I want to put carpet back on there (if thats how it was stock). Any suggestions as to where to buy "auto-motive" carpet and how its held in place (gorilla glue? plastic tabs?) also want to buy extra because im building a rotary shaped subwoofer box to go in back and want it to match the carpet in the car!
Thanks ahead of time for the info! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif |
After I pulled the carpet out of my 7 I never really thought about putting some back in!!
Welcome to the forum https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif |
Was thinking of leaving it like that if I was going to go for a bridge port + roll cage car!! This will be my daily driver.... Im probably going to attempt a street port, Pinnapple racing has some medium templates but I ended up finding all the info I was looking for from another topic
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/Changed-In...ack-t17914.html That write up is good, simple and down to earth, seats out, clean, add insulation from home depot and a link where to buy the carpet! (except it doesnt work anymore lol) but was looking for something like that for the basic concept! This forum is huge, just had to do a little searching! |
i bought the generic carpet i will never again!!!! if u want new carpet buy a new one from the dealer its really expencive but 200% worth it
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What was so bad about the generic brand? I am on a pretty tight budget (arnt we all?) $400 for the car, $990 for engine rebuild kit (Didnt want to go cheap there) $200 for a cheap stero system and now I want to make it look more like a daily driver, The back carpet is going to be redone as well, mice decided to enjoy chewing on it plus then i can match it to the front (all black https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR ) so how much is this "expensive" carpet? I found a site online that had the "80% precut molded" pieces, is that kinda what you get at the dealer? What are the Cons of the generic brand, thin, tears easy? Im 100% sure that im staying under $200 for interior touch ups, just wanted the carpets to look nice, plus saving up for a nice exhaust https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif
if they last 3 years thats good enough for me, ill be putting matts down as well so they won't get 2 much wear. Thanks for the input! |
dude just save up for the oem carpet or buy a nice used one for one of the forums. dont listen to any of those online places. fitment is awful. trying to cut holes for everything fuckig sucks. at the dealer u get what u pay for. ive done numerous carpet installs when i worked for the dealer, i was on a budget too and cheaped out got the online carpet and it was the biggest headach ever
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Im used to headaches! lol Im a electrical/mechanical engineer, Im used to getting old **** and fixing it up, im on my 3rd motorcycle thats from the '80s, this will be my first "try to make look nice" job on an interior so even if it takes me a whole weekend (I enjoy my 9-5 mon-fri job https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif ) and saves me $hundrends ill go for it, but i will heed your advice and probably kick myself in the face https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif afterwords but $3k a semester to get my bachlers takes a lot of my pay. once i get the thing over to my house (only gave the dude half the money cause he has to get the title, learned my leason one time by buying a project and never had the title.) carpet will probably come last. only 2 shatty parts about the car, idiot backed into the front quarter panel, and above the rear tire while it was at his house and engine blows oil smoke.... everything else looks mint, super window tints and spoiler, 5 lug, 4 wheel disk, minimal rust. trying to work through all these forums to find out about a nice a mild port that will not loose me all that low end torque i need for daily driving, 90% of the time ill be under 4k rpms. Everyother forum people are like "i got 180rwhp!!! yeah' but thats at 8K+ rpms... Id rather have 160rwhp and keep my low end torque!
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there was that place advertising carpets, god if I remember who they were, I remember some people ordering from them and not having many complaints.
cant be all that bad, I mean it wont be dealer but come on with thier prices who wants to pay that? |
You know that fuzzy **** some magnufacturers of lighweight cars used to cover dashes/rollcages with? Its called Alcantara.
http://www.alcantara.com/ |
A little searching got me here: http://www.gulffabrics.com/
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='919362' date='Mar 27 2009, 05:27 PM
there was that place advertising carpets, god if I remember who they were, I remember some people ordering from them and not having many complaints.
cant be all that bad, I mean it wont be dealer but come on with thier prices who wants to pay that? after my expeirienc i would of just paid it |
i really doubt you could still get a factory carpet new. good used is the least expensive option
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what do you think about removing the FC carpet without taking the dash out?
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='919407' date='Mar 28 2009, 10:42 AM
what do you think about removing the FC carpet without taking the dash out?
not sure if you can? last one i did had this pointy thing sticking up thru the floor, and thru the carpet, right under the heater. so heater box had to come out |
ahh so the whole dash has to come out 2!! I remember my GFs jetta and taking the dash out, that was a pain in the arse and never went back together right... maybe ill do the 1/2 assed make it look as best i can job... currently working on a virago project... figuring out how to wire a $10 automotive selnoid switch to wires used on a $125 motorcycle one..
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dash on the FC is like 10 bolts, its not german
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yea its japanese which means its easy to put back together
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Yeah, it's easy as **** and any plastic bits you break are cheap to replace.
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thats good news!!! that fing german car had at least 20 bolts and plastic tabs whre $10 each or more...germans are good with metal... they also gave us the wankel engine.... but plastics forget about it..
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dont forget they like to screw you on prices too
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Originally Posted by Nateb123' post='919441' date='Mar 28 2009, 05:17 PM
Yeah, it's easy as **** and any plastic bits you break are cheap to replace.
Dont you have to pull the windshield to get at those screws? Yeesh. I just snapped the ******* dash off, took 5 minutes! She's getting gutted out anyway, I'll be making a new way of installing it with a quick release. |
wait your making a quick release dash? wtf ? how?
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Originally Posted by RicerJ' post='919457' date='Mar 28 2009, 10:57 PM
wait your making a quick release dash? wtf ? how?
I might just make some brackets and have 6 easy to access 10mm bolts holding it in |
Originally Posted by defprun' post='919456' date='Mar 28 2009, 11:20 PM
Dont you have to pull the windshield to get at those screws? Yeesh. I just snapped the ******* dash off, took 5 minutes! She's getting gutted out anyway, I'll be making a new way of installing it with a quick release.
yeah right now the dash in mr peepers is bolts, its a bit floppy |
Originally Posted by defprun' post='919456' date='Mar 28 2009, 11:20 PM
Dont you have to pull the windshield to get at those screws? Yeesh. I just snapped the ******* dash off, took 5 minutes! She's getting gutted out anyway, I'll be making a new way of installing it with a quick release.
I did it just fine without touching the windsheild. |
Originally Posted by Nateb123' post='919473' date='Mar 29 2009, 11:50 AM
I did it just fine without touching the windsheild.
yeah box wrench or 90 degree screwdriver |
im scared to take the dash out, im worried it will rattle and never go back on right.
20 year old jap plastic does not exactly inspire me |
The dash is super easy the only thing you will break are the defrost grill on top they broke on both thw
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its not coming out and going back in, its the fear of it rattling and being a pain when it is back in
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I wouldn't have taken it out if i knew i was gutting the thing so it's no big deal...i want to eliminate all the yellow plastic...
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you eliminate the plastic and the thing will probably warp and lose its shape, you want weight reduction gut the doors, those things are HEAVY
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='919511' date='Mar 30 2009, 04:18 AM
its not coming out and going back in, its the fear of it rattling and being a pain when it is back in
its not so bad actually. on the bottom and sides the metal dash frame bolts to the body of the car. the 3 on top are plastic, and its like 50/50 if its already broken, at least here where we get a lot of sun. due to the modular construction, if you wanted to, you can take the dash out without removing the radio, gauges logicon etc etc. or put it the other way, the outer plastic dash part, is attached to a metal frame, and THAT is bolted to the car |
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='919536' date='Mar 30 2009, 02:10 PM
you eliminate the plastic and the thing will probably warp and lose its shape, you want weight reduction gut the doors, those things are HEAVY
Well I'm not going to let that happen, the doors are already gutted! The dash is actually pretty light...I'm hoping to use fiberglass to re-inforce it though. |
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