Why not? Be specific, what do you think wont hold up and why? Youre not exactly helping your case by not providing anything more than an assumption.

Adam- How long do you think the N/A tranny would hold up for? Or even the rear end differential? I always forget how much hp they can handle exactly!!



I think N20 is awesome, but you have to have other supporting modifications done to the car as well. Can't just slap a kit on and go to the strip.



Might want to upgrade flywheel also? I am not sure of the specs that the stock components of an FC can handle.

he'd have to be roping and stomping on it everyday to do some major damage to the motor. The rotary has its downfalls but its not glass. I've been told that the fc tranny and rear end are pretty damn strong. They could have been wrong.

Flywheel isnt something that has a problem with hp.



The n/a rear end isnt that weak. Probably wouldnt be a short term issue unless he did a lot of drag racing with sticky tires(DOT or slicks).



Transmission, well, is very dependent on the driver. Be nice when on the bottle(not slamming gears or dropping the clutch) and it will be fine. Ive broken enough trannies to know 2 things. Mazda transmissions dont like high rpm, and the n/a trannies can take abuse or power, but not both.

The TII tranny and rear end is super strong, but I don't think the NA fc trannies are very good at yielding alot of power, or even alot of abuse.

the biggest thing to rememebr is not to blow the welds on the intake.

And do be sure your floor plate is securely attached. You wouldnt want it to fall off when running from the cops.

This is where i disagree...



Dry kits are made for people wanting to run a big shot and have engines with manifolds that are designed only to flow air "dry manifold". Meaning the injectors are at or near the engine and no fuel actually goes through the manifold. (unlike a carbed manifold) You need to add your own fuel with a dry n20 kit. Like with an EMS or the MS whatever.



Dry manifolds have dead spots and places where n20/fuel can accumulate, cause issues, and even have a backfire through the manifold that can blow it appart. Running a TB nozzle with a high shot is not very safe on most modern cars

Only use a wet kit. 100 extra horsepower on a dry kit will require a LOT of extra fuel pressure when the nitrous comes on. This puts a strain on the fuel pump. Only use two nozzles, easier than plumbing 4. 100 shot should be ok, but its always smart to start small (like a 50 shot) and slowly work up to the 100 or 125 to sort out any problems that might come along the way. Use race gas (which means not cat), and find a way to retard the timing. Run 20 degrees total lead (tested with the engine revving up) on a 100 shot. 10 degree split. You will also need to run a race plug. I run NGK 10.5 heat range. On a big shot, you will want a 11.5 heat range. I dont see why the stock tranny wont live on a 100 shot. You'll need a clutch though. Put slicks on the back, bounce the car off the limiter, step off the clutch and bang the nitrous. It should leave hard, and any weak parts will end up lying on the ground, so you'll know right away what you need to replace next. Ha ha, just joking.

at the 170rwhp we have the following problems with the na drvetrain.



1. 3rd gear synchro goes first

2. the gear oil in the rear end wears out/gets burnt really fast



this is roadracing for up to 3 hours a session. little bit more power shouldnt affect much....