Okay I recently installed a new oem t-stat, new radiator, new hoses, oem rad.cap, re-man water pump, the car runs very good, but on long drives lets say hours at a time, water would go to the overflow tank making it rise near the top. Im guessing theres air bubbles in the cooling system, so how do i properly bleed the whole thing?



Tried to find answer on this forum, but i couldn't, help me out! thanks



By the way this is for a 90' vert n/a.



Thanks.!

Take the radiator cap off, when the car is cool of course, turn it on and let it run for likr 5 mins, turn the car off and put the cap back on.

[quote name='MFDOOMSTYLE' date='Jun 14 2005, 02:31 AM']Okay I recently installed a new oem t-stat, new radiator, new hoses, oem rad.cap, re-man water pump, the car runs very good, but on long drives lets say hours at a time, water would go to the overflow tank making it rise near the top.
[/quote]





thats normal, the coolant should be filled to the COLD mark, then when it gets hot it rises to the HOT mark on the overflow bottle.



if your car is running for hours and not overheating there is nothing wrong with it.



I always fill it to the top with the cap off, let it run, close the cap, then after it seems to get warmer crack the bleeder for a second.

how can you leave your car on for 5 mins without the radiator cap? when i do that with mines, it starts pushing out water little by little... im guessing i have a big problem then?

Sounds like either your thermostat isnt opening or you have exhaust getting into your colling system. Thats what just brought me down. :(



(the exhaust part not the thermostat)

Do you mean FLUSH? You don't actually BLEED the radiator.... The easiest way to FLUSH the coolant is simple.



On the Bottom of the radiator, facing the engine, there's a drain plug.



If you open the radiator cap (car off), and put a garden hose into it (w/ the water ON, of course), and undo the drain plug, it will flush out the RADIATOR.



As far as the coolant sysem goes, it's BASICALLY the same, except w/ teh car running. Start the car after you have the hose on, and hahave drained the radiator.



What this does is forces the water from the garden hose into the engine, circulating it through, and out the drain plug in the radiator.



If you drain/ flush the Radiator, first, you have less chance of circulating radiator crap into your engine.



Once you've let the engine run for a while, w/ the hose supplying "coolant" to the engine, turn off the car, THEN the hose. Keep the drain plug out until all the water drains.



After that, replug the drain, fill with coolant to where it needs to be, and you're set!



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif





Ant

IF that procedure is safe to do, wouldn't it only work if you remove the t-stat first? and refill with distilled water, not hose water.

[quote name='MFDOOMSTYLE' date='Jun 14 2005, 04:21 AM']how can you leave your car on for 5 mins without the radiator cap? when i do that with mines, it starts pushing out water little by little... im guessing i have a big problem then?


[/quote]

Whenever I do mine, like whenever I change my coolant, it just burps air bubles out of it. Doesnt over flow at all.

none of you have a bleeder on your radiator??



he stated that after he runs his car for HOURS, the overflow bottle is full, that is normal.



there is nothing wrong with his coolant system

[quote name='Rob x-7' date='Jun 14 2005, 02:16 PM']none of you have a bleeder on your radiator??






[/quote]

nope https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

look really carefully at the yellow sticker on the upper radiator hose, above that is a provision thats aiming to the passenger side, thats the bleeder screw.



maybe its a s4 thing, I dunno

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/userimag...747507b870.jpg

I've got that on mine, that's the only way I can get all the air out.

Well I got some piece of **** coper brass cuntcocktion that doesnt have one, im going koyo real soon, do they have one?

Oh... Okay. I see what you're askin' you want to know how to burp the air out of the coolant system.



::shakes head:: Nevemind.



I thought you were askin how to FLUSH the thing.



Yeah. If you remove an opening at the farthest point at the TOP of the loop, that's where the air will "settle."



You can either take the radiator a LITTLE bit off so that it spits, and then starts to flow liquid, or just use the screw.



OBVIOUSLY you do this when the engine's cooled. I don't think I have to explain WHY this is a good idea... Do I?



IF that procedure is safe to do, wouldn't it only work if you remove the t-stat first? and refill with distilled water, not hose water.



It doesn't matter, either way. The water going in is going to flow OUT at the bottom. Hell, you could piss in it, for all that it matters - albeit not REALLY recommended. That method works great to cool down race engines, in a pinch... 'Course we have an adapted radiator cap that we can screw a pressurized water source onto. That way we don't have to worry about the whole radiator cap explosion thing. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



Try it ONCE. You'll see what I'm talking about.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

Do you need to remove the plastic cover at the bottom of the car to reach the bottom of the radiator to bleed it out?

no

i know of 2 ways to properly bleed n fill a rad with or with out a bleeder screw. i prefur my air lift, some may know what that is , it only takes about 30 seconds to totaly fill and bleed a cooling system from bone dry or you can put a radiator funnel on the rad fill it and bleed off the air that way with the frount of the car in the air so the coolent can get to the heater core.

You could have an engine problem, I chased an overfill situation like that for days on end before I figured out the problem was actually the motor leaking compression into the cooling system

[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Jun 23 2005, 07:49 AM']You could have an engine problem, I chased an overfill situation like that for days on end before I figured out the problem was actually the motor leaking compression into the cooling system


[/quote]

How did that happen? Was one of the cooling seals leaking just right so no fluid was being lost?

Guss that's just enough of a leak that air pressure's keeping any collant from seeping. As long as the air entering isn't diaplcing any fluid, there won't be any fluid seepage.



If you turn a coke bottle upside down, Coke comes out, and gets displaced by the air going in. If there's a top-side leak (or a place the air's bleeding out) then the air is just passing through, not causing any fluid to pack up and catch a vacation.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

Coolant o-rings fail different from a head-gasket on a piston engine





When people say "it's like losing a head gasket" it's really not



Piston engine blown head gasket will see all 4 strokes, so sucking in and pushing out coolant



Rotary will only see 1 depending on where the leak is



Remember the engine has each part of the stroke process at different sides



You could burn coolant by having it suck in on the intake or combustion side of the motor, and you could force air and pressurize the cooling system if it's on the compression or exhaust side



I had a leak on the compression side of my motor

Basically what I'm getting at is if the leak is small enough, and it's, say, on the intake side of the motor, the engine would VERY slowly lose coolant from the reservoir, it would be burned, and because of the way the system is designed, it would draw from the reservoir back into the engine







So you might think you just have a leaky hose somewhere when your motor is actually burning it





Same idea on compression side



Mine only acted up when it was warmed up and driving for a while.. I kept driving and the seal got worse, and next thing I know I can't drive for 5 minutes without the system pressurizing and dumping all the coolant out of the overflow, weather hot or cold engine. There wasn't any debris in the coolant either. When a head gasket goes on a piston engine you get alot (more) of contamination.

when piston engines blow head gaskets thats what happens as well, its either blown out the exaust or its burned in the intake

If you're lucky