It's So Confusing Aieeee
#11
Originally Posted by Dramon_Killer' date='Jan 31 2004, 08:04 PM
What about that part?
And my car still did the 5k hesistation WHEN I HAD CATS!!!
I still dont see how i could be hitting 10psi with both cats intact, stock catback and stock TID with just a cone filter slapped on.
And my car still did the 5k hesistation WHEN I HAD CATS!!!
I still dont see how i could be hitting 10psi with both cats intact, stock catback and stock TID with just a cone filter slapped on.
second, my t2 was hitting 13psi on a cold night with a hollow precat and an intake, so you with less restriction should be at 10psi no problem
#12
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Feb 1 2004, 04:05 PM
first if you're not hitting fuel cut by 10psi it might already have an fcd, or thats your 5k hesitation.
second, my t2 was hitting 13psi on a cold night with a hollow precat and an intake, so you with less restriction should be at 10psi no problem
second, my t2 was hitting 13psi on a cold night with a hollow precat and an intake, so you with less restriction should be at 10psi no problem
so im using the assumption from what he told me
#15
ok boost controllers:
Manual boost controllers only adjust the amount of air pressure getting to the wastegate actuator, they dont physically hold the wastegate shut or anything.
The reason "boost builds quicker" is because the WG isn't seeing any pressure if the restriction/**** is in far. You can see this in action by disconnectnig your WG, your boost will build super quickly.
A boost controller cannot lower boost, if your boost controller is at it's lowest possible setting and you're still reaching 10psi, it's because your setup's lowest boost is 10psi due to no restrictions etc etc. I sold my MBC to frestyle for that reason my lowest boost is my safest boost (altho technically not safe for my fuel system) so a line straight to the WG is in effect the same as me leaving the MBC wide open, which is what i was doing.
You seriously need to pay attention here ok?
TO SAVE THE MOST MONEY:
1) Take on each problem one at a time starting with the one that has the fewest different approaches. This would be your injectors, get them cleaned ocne cleaned yuo dont have to question them. Check your fuel filter, disconnect and remove it blow through it, if it is easy to blow through its good, if it is restricted in any way it is causing a problem, replace it. Then check your fuel pump, i cant rememebr if you have aftermarket or not. Check it's gettnig proper voltage and that it is indeed pumping gas.
Now while your injectors are getting cleaned check your ecu, if it's chipped there'll be an aftermarket company's name on the ecu, such as "panspeed" but i doubt it's chipped, so get an FCD, bigturbo just offered you one, and they normally run about $20 used.
Bam your fuel system is now running as good as you can make it run. So the fuel delivery is now cleared, all for about $160 total. That $160 may seem like a lot but it removes all doubt from your mind that fuel is getting to your engine.
In "cliff notes" form, stop being a lazy *** bad car owner and take care of your car by taking the required and appropriate steps. It's obvious the exhaust restrictions were not your problem, so move on to the next step, your fuel delivery system.
case closed.
kevin.
Manual boost controllers only adjust the amount of air pressure getting to the wastegate actuator, they dont physically hold the wastegate shut or anything.
The reason "boost builds quicker" is because the WG isn't seeing any pressure if the restriction/**** is in far. You can see this in action by disconnectnig your WG, your boost will build super quickly.
A boost controller cannot lower boost, if your boost controller is at it's lowest possible setting and you're still reaching 10psi, it's because your setup's lowest boost is 10psi due to no restrictions etc etc. I sold my MBC to frestyle for that reason my lowest boost is my safest boost (altho technically not safe for my fuel system) so a line straight to the WG is in effect the same as me leaving the MBC wide open, which is what i was doing.
You seriously need to pay attention here ok?
TO SAVE THE MOST MONEY:
1) Take on each problem one at a time starting with the one that has the fewest different approaches. This would be your injectors, get them cleaned ocne cleaned yuo dont have to question them. Check your fuel filter, disconnect and remove it blow through it, if it is easy to blow through its good, if it is restricted in any way it is causing a problem, replace it. Then check your fuel pump, i cant rememebr if you have aftermarket or not. Check it's gettnig proper voltage and that it is indeed pumping gas.
Now while your injectors are getting cleaned check your ecu, if it's chipped there'll be an aftermarket company's name on the ecu, such as "panspeed" but i doubt it's chipped, so get an FCD, bigturbo just offered you one, and they normally run about $20 used.
Bam your fuel system is now running as good as you can make it run. So the fuel delivery is now cleared, all for about $160 total. That $160 may seem like a lot but it removes all doubt from your mind that fuel is getting to your engine.
In "cliff notes" form, stop being a lazy *** bad car owner and take care of your car by taking the required and appropriate steps. It's obvious the exhaust restrictions were not your problem, so move on to the next step, your fuel delivery system.
case closed.
kevin.
#17
Originally Posted by g_dripht-alex' date='Feb 1 2004, 06:17 PM
i give kevin's post an a+ with 3 gold stars.
Hopefully my advice is taken and used instead of skimmed and ignored.
kevin.
#19
Originally Posted by Dramon_Killer' date='Feb 1 2004, 10:43 PM
This was a thread about my boost. Not my 5k hesistation. JUST TO FREAKING CLARIFY MY POSTS ARE ABOUT DIFFERENT PROBLEMS!!
kevin.
#20
Originally Posted by teknics' date='Feb 1 2004, 07:46 PM
I assume you no longer want my advice, then, fine consider my advice removed and no longer accessible.
kevin.
kevin.
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