Mine is just lying on top the engine for now along side the resistor.

Yep. Normal idle is 800ish. It goes up to 1000 in about a second then goes back down just as slowly.

I'm with peng. I had mine off my car and it wouldn't idle @ lower than 1500. I guess it might all depend on specific setups, though. If U haven't taken it off.....don't.

Didn't the tb mod eliminate the fast idle? Also, are you refering to the BAC when you say it'll get enough heat? Does the BAC really need coolant? [/quote]

BAC needs no heat.



There's really different opinions on what a TB mod is. There's 3 things that can be done.

The most important is eliminating the extra 2ndary throttle plates that have their own thermowax. If this fails or hangs, your secondary's don't open.



Second is porting the TB for better flow.



Third would be to eliminate the fast idle. I don't see any reason to do this myself.



For an update, I threw out the advice of just blocking the coolant for the fast idle after reading about it from a well respected unnamed rotary enthusiest(shame on me) =). I have to tell you, I'm not having a lot of luck getting it to work very well. I'll be going to a FMIC in the next few weeks so It'll be easier to make adjustments and maybe find better settings.

Here is one method: linked hose from engine to waterpump neck; after doing tb mod.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1054613105.jpg

and on the other ride; tapping the nipples

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1054613944.jpg

I have some pics of a similar method of dealing with the coolant when doing the TB mods... This way involves removing the nipples entirely, tapping the housing, and installing the plug right there... it's a nice low profile clean method in my opinion...





Step 1:

Grab nipple with locking pliers, twist, and pull.

http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7...2/IMG_2078.JPG



Step 2:

Tap hole left by removed nipple, I recommend using a NPT style tap and plug, but I didn't use one here...

http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7...2/IMG_2080.JPG



http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7...2/IMG_2081.JPG



Step 3:

Install plug, I used red locktite on mine, no leaks as of yet... if you use a NPT tap and plug, just put some teflon on it.

http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7...2/IMG_2082.JPG



Step 4:

Clean up, drink beer.

http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7...2/IMG_2083.JPG



The procedure is identical on the other nipple in the rear housing, the nipples are pretty easy to remove... simply pressed in and hte rear housing nipple looked like it had epoxy on it or something holding it in too.

Didn't the tb mod eliminate the fast idle? Also, are you refering to the BAC when you say it'll get enough heat? Does the BAC really need coolant? [/quote]

[/quote]

Bac doesn't need heat. Yes, the fast idle still works. But... as I said, it's a lot more difficult to adjust and get working right. It'll still heat and melt the fast idle thermowax, just takes a lot longer.



I have no BAC, I set my idle to 800 and have zero problems. I have PS and 2 efans. I do set it up to 900rpms in the summer for the AC. I'm thinking of just using a leftover vac solenoid wired to the AC compressor to cause a vac leak and idle the engine up instead of changing the idle speed. Btw,I don't think this would work with the factory ECU and the mass airflow meter.

i hate the hose, nice write up pengaru

Yep, tapping the holes sounded like a good idea to me. I pulled the inserts out yesterday, tapped the holes and bolted them shut. It also gave me an excuse to pull my water pump off and paint it, since it was looking pretty nasty. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif