This is a trick of mine that I do with a newly rebuilt (homebrew) rotary or with a worn engine that has sticky seals and or has sat too long without being ran. On the 1st and 2nd gen cars there is a temp sensor in the oil pan that switches on the anti icing pump when its subzero. Put automatic tranny fluid in the bottle marked subzero fluid and disconnect the temp sensor. On the 2nd gen I think you need to ground out the lead going to the temp sensor. As you hold the key in the start position the pump should engage and inject the tranny fluid into the engine. This creates compression to start the engine and floods the exhaust manifold with oil which creates a lot of smoke, make sure you are in a area that has a lot of ventilation, after the engine has had some warmup time a few blocks down the road will blow all the smoke out. You may need to press a button on the top of the bottle to bleed the air out so the pump draws correctly or you may need to dismantle the bleed button to provide a vent for the bottle. Cranking the ignition with full throttle may help the engine start sooner. I've found that after a car is run a few hundred miles the seals seat and you no longer need the fluid to start the engine up. This doesn't work with engines that have cracked apex seals. If your engine has no compression on the rear rotor with 100k+ miles on it you probably have a cracked apex seal, typical on 13b's with the 2mm apex seals, when the apex seal cracks it probably took out the rotor housing and the rotor. Of course a lot of you know this already, I'm practically illiterate when it comes to 3rd gens as I've never owned one. (into rotormotors since'78)
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